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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 05:38 AM
  #1  
bssiesmth's Avatar
bssiesmth
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3rd Gear
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From: México City
NEed help installing a su...

I just bought a small tube subwoofer, and I wanted to install it on my car. It fits... and I learned to remove the X9331 connector (although I see no easy way to splice a wire). I also took out the side trim from the floor.

I have also learned how to remove the trim on the trunk (boot?) of the car, so as to get the power from the cigarrete lighter plug.

There are two things I haven't been able to find out how to do, though.

1. Although I know how to pass the wire from the X9331 right to the middle of the car (since I can remove the trim up until where the safety belt is bolted to the car) I don't know how I can pass the wire from there to the rear of the car. Do I need to remove the rear seats and all trim? Also, can I pass the wire from the rear to the front of the car?

2. What's the easiest way to connect the new wires to the X9331, the least invasive way?

Thanks for all help!
 
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 06:09 AM
  #2  
unclemeat's Avatar
unclemeat
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Joined: Feb 2008
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I just stuffed the wires between the seats until I could not see them anymore.

Hey the cig lighter doesnt have enough amperage power to run a subwoofer; but you can use it for an amp/remote turn-on. You should installed a fused link from the car's battery to the amp's positive terminal, and ground the negative to a decent chassis point.

I used some splice/butt connectors for tying into the X9331 connector.

Didnt you just make your own circuit board crossovers?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 07:20 AM
  #3  
Robin Casady's Avatar
Robin Casady
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From: Paradise
There is amperage in the cig lighter socket to run a Bass600. Not sure about a tube sub.

The least invasive way is to buy the parts for both halves of the X9331 connector and wire up an inbetween in between plug that passes signal through, plust connects to an RCA cable. Unfortunately, the cost is between $50-70, depending on shipping cost and where you buy them. BMW sells each pin separately, so it adds up. Here are the parts numbers:

Plug Housing - 61131378139
Female Inserts - 61131376204 (you need 12)
Pin Housing - 61131378137
Circular Contact (pins) 1.0mm-2.5mm - 61131376193 (you need 12)
 
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 01:06 PM
  #4  
bssiesmth's Avatar
bssiesmth
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From: México City
Originally Posted by unclemeat
I just stuffed the wires between the seats until I could not see them anymore.

Hey the cig lighter doesnt have enough amperage power to run a subwoofer; but you can use it for an amp/remote turn-on. You should installed a fused link from the car's battery to the amp's positive terminal, and ground the negative to a decent chassis point.

I used some splice/butt connectors for tying into the X9331 connector.

Didnt you just make your own circuit board crossovers?
Yeah, but those boards are for the mid / tweeter set on the front. I have a fever, and the only prescription is.. well, a sub

The sub is pretty small. It uses a 15 amp fuse. IIRC, the cigarrette lighter has a 20 amp fuse, so I should be OK.

Robin, thanks for your help. Did you end up building your own harness? Sounds like the only way to go at this point. How did you pass the cables from the X9331 to the back of the car?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 02:21 PM
  #5  
Robin Casady's Avatar
Robin Casady
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,578
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From: Paradise
Originally Posted by bssiesmth
Yeah, but those boards are for the mid / tweeter set on the front. I have a fever, and the only prescription is.. well, a sub

The sub is pretty small. It uses a 15 amp fuse. IIRC, the cigarrette lighter has a 20 amp fuse, so I should be OK.qq
That's about the same as the Bass600. The fuse covers both front and back cig sockets. So, don't put a heavy load on the front one while running the sub off the rear. Otherwise, should be fine.

Robin, thanks for your help. Did you end up building your own harness? Sounds like the only way to go at this point. How did you pass the cables from the X9331 to the back of the car?
I did, but I was being too clever and screwed it up. I used brass rods to connect the make and female connectors back-to-back (for a pass-through connector) and the rods were a little too short. Everything was fine until I snapped it all together. One of the wires or connections must have gotten severed. So, it is great, except no continuity on one of the rear RCA jacks. Poping all 12 metal sockets out of the housing at one time is going to be difficult. Might be easier to start over. I'll probably just do a male plug for the new amp and leave the factory disconnected. When I take it in for a software related service, I'll swap plugs.

In your case, just use longer wires between the male and female connectors so you can easily get at them if there is a problem.

Regarding running the wires to the back, still working on it. I'm struggling with getting new wiring into the doors. Without taking the whole dash apart, it is really difficult to get at the grommet to pass the wires through. Took me a longtime just to locate it.

So, I haven't yet dealt with the passage into the rear panels, If I decide to do that. I did remove the seat belts at the floor and seats so I could remove the entire side panel below the door. That isn't hard.
 
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