Hey everyone! I'm pretty much done (ran out of parts for this weekend) with modifying Elizabeth's sound system.

Took absolutely everything out from the back of the car in 20 minutes flat, had to deal with Texas heat.... and Texas storms... Finished up, all in under 12 hours! My friend David helped out with the install and it went pretty smoothly...

The upgrades were/will be as follows:

1. Alpine PDX-5 Amplifier in the boot.
2. AudioControl DQL-8 (I've got some info on this that I got from the manufacturer involving the little 100Hz -20dB/dec problem).
3. Fat Mat sound deadening on the rear of the MINI (south of the B pillars).
4. Rockford Fosgate P1S410 Sub in an UrbanMini sealed box.
5. Misc items, new cabling,etc.

Feel free to take a look at the pics here and let me know what you think! I'll post updates as well as calibration pics once I get the DQL-8.

Oh yeah, and about that... I'd REALLY recommend the DQL-8 because of its tweakability. The way that it works is that it takes the front signals and uses that to create the subwoofer channel to drive the sub, NOT THE REAR! This is PERFECT for the MINI's affected by this rolloff... So if you've got a box like the one from UrbanMini (well-made, sealed, etc.) you'll be able to produce those low frequencies perfectly (and cleanly) with the sub and you won't have to drive the fronts as if they were full range but rather mid-highs, like they're made to be driven. Sure, the 6x9's are sort of chilling... but well, thus is life...

BTW, I'm building this system for quality... not quantity. There won't be any SPL competitions for me, but I want to be able to hear how bad the compression messed up songs on my mp3s!
I'm still waiting to get the sub box and the dql (friday and wednesday of next week respectively), but I'll show my calibration techniques once everything is said and done!

Ah, another thing, we found out that the PDX-5 fits in the rear secret compartment nicely (well, you have to grind down a bit of plastic... less than 1 square inch, but it fits).

Oh yeah, take a look at the pics!

 

How did you secure the amp in that secret compartment?

 

It states he put it in the boot.

BTW the Secret Compartment is actually the space above the Glove Box that can open and close when pushed on. Standard in the USA and optional in most other countries.

 

Schatzy62, I will concede that I should have stated rear secret compartment as the original poster has done.




Also please note that I did not ask where he put the amp but how he secured it after placing it in the boot. Please see his pictures of his install. They are very good and informative. However, I can not tell if some sort of double sided tape, velcro, or other mounthing system was used. If you can tell me that would be great! However, if you dont know I would let the original poster answer.

 

The silver ****-looking-things on the corners of the amp actually come off and allow you to screw in some self-tapping screws through the amp. They are just screwed directly into the wheel well. They penetrate about 1/4 of an inch, but are fairly far away from anything. I haven't gotten around to sealing the screws because they'll need to be removed in order to mess with the crossover settings on the amp, but once that's all done I'll be removing the tire and felt cover and coating everything with a high-temperature sealant.



Only 3 screws are bolted in to the metal and it's worked out great! I LOVE the mounting location. The amp is VERY firmly mounted and there's a ground connection nearby. The big loom of wires has the RCA signal wires, battery power, remote, and speaker outputs all bundled together (I know you typically want to keep the power separate from signals) and I don't get ANY noticeable alternator noise whatsoever!

I'll post more detailed pics later on this week once I get my sub box and have to take some stuff apart again.

 

2 More questions.
To anyones knowledge, Does drilling into the wheel well void the rust perforation warranty?

Where did you wire the remote turn on?

 

No clue if it does or doesn't... I didn't know that they offered such a thing lol... and my mini has the comfort access system and I tapped in to a wire which turns on with the ignition button press under the top control panel. I found the wire when I was putting in my radar detector.

 

No need to be rude. I was just mentioning that what is "Officially" called the Secret Compartment is actually in the dash, not the rear of the vehicle. As for the rear of the vehicle there is really no Secret Compartment only panels that cover the body sheet metal, or hold other items.

Yes it would, as you are modifying and perforating the rust proofing of the OEM Vehicle. With that said they probably would not say anything as long as the ends of the screws were recovered with some sort of undercoating.

Although not really an answer to your question here are some places to get power from for amp turn on. Where the OP used, the cigarette lighter socket or fuse 42 (fuse for cigarette lighter), any Terminal 30G-F connection or fuse (these turn off approx 15 min after ignition off), amp turn on line at amp (if you have the HiFi system) (the amp turn on line is in the upper dash behind the speedo otherwise and not in the X9331 connector)

The best one is to use the amp turn on line if you can as then when the radio is turned on/off with out the ignition (pressing the volume control) the amp will turn on/off. Using any of the other terminals/fuses will cause the amp to possiblly not turn on or stay on for a short while when the car is off.

If you have not already done so reading the Hot or Not Fuse thread https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...not-fuses.html could give you more insight on the workings of the electrical system.

 

Hey everyone! I went ahead and finished installing everything yesterday!! I can definitely say that it was all well worth it!! I recommend all the products I used 100% to anyone!! The DQL is worth every penny and the the UrbanMini.com box is AWESOME!!

After calibrating and everything I get awesome response across the board!! Sound is crystal clear and bass is juuuuust right!

As always, feel free to ask questions!

Oh yeah, and click here for more pictures!

 

Schatzy62 sorry I wasn't trying to be rude. Alos, Thanks for the hot or not fuse thread, Ive book marked it. I think I might use fuse F24, wind shield washer pump. I think bass is best left for when you are cleaning the windshield.

War: Did you have to rip out the DSC box under the passenger seat or is all it is it just that tiny little metallic box with mini on it next to your DQL? If it is just that little thing that other posts sure had me believeing that it took up that whole area.

 

I love that sub enclosure! ( I see myself ordering one in the near future!)
By the way, with the amp mounted like that how will you change a bulb in the tail lights if one ever blows? That is the only reason I did not mount an amp there.
David

 

That little box that you see next to the DQL is the DSC box. I even called up my dealer and verified that I couldn't move it out of the way... There's more than enough space though!

They're great! Well built too!! I'm VERY impressed. And well, if you do an install like this you'll be comfortable taking everything in the boot apart... To get to the bulb you'd have to pull out the right section of the boot as well as pull out the screws holding the amp to the wheel well. It would probably take me 10 minutes and a drill to do. Using that space is worth it though.

 

I was this far away... when I realized I would need to remove the amp to change bulbs I decided against it. my amp will fit without a problem in the storage space of the UrbanMini enclosure.

 

by the way, where did you tap in for the signal I learned the hard way that the rear signal is the wrong one to use.

 

Do you mean the remote line? If so, I grabbed it from the power wire that runs to the top center console (where people normally grab power for their radar detectors).

As for audio signal lines, I also grabbed them from behind the speedo. I used to have a 3sixty.1 mounted under the stock CD player, so I had to take the dash apart anyway when I installed the DQL. I already had 4 pairs of wires running back up there, so I just cut and spliced.

 

yes it would be very bad to move or change the position of that module as it measures the latitudinal, longitudinal, and rotational movement of the vehicle for the DSC system.

Any change it that modules orientation to the vehicle would cause some very detrimental sensor readings for the DSC.

 

what box from UrbanMini did you get? they don't list one specific for the Clubman.

 

Ok a couple more questions, If they are the same wires at the amp, what colors were they (for signal) and what did you do with the 360.1 you pulled out?

So are we certain that the fronts don't have the cutoff at high volumes like the rears?

 

Glad you didn't get fried in that Texas heat! Boy that sub looks good he.he. I've got a question about the DSP, how would you rate the new DLQ-8 vs the old 3sixty.1?

 

@war6763

nice write up. Amazing.... the whole mini stripped. How did you get from the battery to the amplifier? Any pics from that? I also planning an upgrade. Removing the battery and there should be an opening which is going to the inside of the car... but where does is come out? Do you also have to remove the glovebox?

 

Battery to the amp is the easy part! You need to pull the battery cover but the battery can stay in place. Once you find the rubber gasket behind the battery, cut it, stick the cable through then look inside the car under the dash. VIOLA, there it is! the next hard part is running the cable behind the passenger rear panel... The entire panel needs to be pulled (at least pulled loose).

 

@david in germany,

thanks man!

 

War it appears from the photos you ran a ground wire on one of the support posts to the DSC box. Is this correct? If so does anyone know if this is a safe ground location?

 

Wow. Just wow. That's friggen amazing =)

I wanna do something similar! I just found UrbanMini.com and fell in love with their sealed enclosure.

I wanna replace the front speakers with 6.5" components, rip out the rear 6x9" (I don't have PDC so I don't mind), and have a 10" in the UrbanMini enclosure. That would be sweet.

Expensive and laborious too I would imagine.

I love how you sound-deadened the whole car! She must sound quiet now! =)

 

I have a 2009 MCS... so I'm not sure about the Clubman, I'd send James an e-mail and ask, he's great!

What do you mean? Take a look at this picture and it should clear up any doubts on the colors... I just tapped into those, but behind the head unit (they're the same colors throughout the car) and everything worked out.

The 3sixty.1 sort of died... the bluetooth chip stopped working, so I decided to RMA it and get myself something a bit better. It still worked though, you just couldn't equalize it... I should be getting it back in working order in a week or so and It'll be off to the eBay auction block...

The DQL is a million times better!! I'm VERY impressed! I just need to get the remote module so I can mess with the equalizer settings from the driver's seat, but once that's said and done, it will definitely be the best (clarity-wise, not noisy) sounding car on the block. Its definitely more challenging to set up and get leveled out properly, but once its done it's excellent!
About the 3sixty, I sort of didn't like some of the design decisions that they made circuit-wise... and not too impressed with quality or features for the price... but that's just me. I'd save up and get a DQL if I were you... its worth every penny (and being able to call up the guys who designed the thing and get technical questions answered is also a treat.. They were intrigued to hear about the -20dB/dec cutoff @ 100Hz... I pointed them to the front/rear swap post to prove it haha)

Thanks! David answered the question for me, but yeah, I hope everything's ok with your project!!

It looks that way, but it keeps going on to a ground post further down. It should be OK anyway, it's just a return line. Essentially, every post is connected together on the same "node", so there isn't any (negligible) difference... Now if you want to talk about the resistance of the material and the distance from the source... well then...

I did too!! I was willing to build my own... but I looked at the quality of the enclosure and I was sold :D

Why rip out the rear 6x9's? If you use the front signal for all four speakers you'll run in to phase cancellation... which means that some frequencies, along with the car's harmonics, will eventually cancel each other out and I can guarantee that you won't ever be able to equalize the car properly... I'd leave the rears there and just change them out for something better/decent. Even something with better high freq response and let the sub fill in what's lost in the rear.
It was VERY laborious.. we had to do the install outside of my apartment in the parking lot... and then it rained... while the dash was taken apart... at night... lol, but we got it all done in under 12 hours

She's MUCH quieter now (just got back from a 6 hour drive), but there's still room for improvement. Now that I'm home I can ask to borrow a friend's shop and cover the wheel wells (and rotate the tires while I'm at it). I'll let you all know what it's like tomorrow!

Lol and I think that takes care of every reply if you all have more questions, just ask!

Next week I'll be making a new video showing how to take the dash apart in more detail, and maybe even the doors. I might film what I'm doing tomorrow if I can find a camera.