Hi, i am looking for a detailed DIY on how to change the rear speakers. I know that i have to take out the rear seats for sure, and that's not a problem. Anyone suggest a good DIY?

 

Guys any one???

 

Sorry Nick, I saw a detailed DIY step by step pictorial in this section and it looked a royal pain in the ***

I'm gonna leave it to the professionals

 

I don't have a pictorial on how to do it, but after doing it myself it will take some time. I would plan at least a couple hours and take your time.

 

It's easy, lower the rear seats, pull out some of the weatherstrip around doors (don't remove completely) around the front of the rear panel, then pop off the rear panels from the gap you will see after you pull out part of the weatherstrip.

You don't have to take them out as you can bend them out a little at the front portion by the front seats to give you room to work and remove the rear speakers. The speakers are held in by 4 screws.

I would go to the dealer and get some more push in clips or whatever they are called as you may break some doing this. They don't cost very much, I always keep some spares around.

 

I just did mine yesterday.....pulled the seat bottom out, left the seat backs in the up position, and pulled the panel out. use something(or someone) to hold it open while you change the speakers... I used the little nipple sticking up from where I took out the seats to hold the panel while I worked. Took all of 30 minutes to install Infinity Kappa 693.9i 6x9's

 

I'd like to add, that if you are taking the panels completely out, remove the rear seat mounting bracket. It sticks out from behind some rubber covers next to the seat belt. Doing this will allow the panel to come straight off. Don't forget to remove the interior trunk light.


Good choice on speakers. I have a set of Infinity Kappa 692.9i 6x9's, paired with Kappa 60.9cs 6 1/2" and an Alpine PDX 4.100 amp. What else are you running? Did you use speaker baffles in your install? I used them up front and originally didn't have them in the rear. The bass was really boomy. Just yesterday, I installed speaker baffles back there and the sound is much better. The bass is really tight and defined now. Every audiophile should use speaker baffles.

 

That is close to what I am running. I installed my iDA-x305 and the 693.9i's. I didn't get the baffles for the rear but I will take that recommendation and get them. I bought the Infinity 6020cs for the front cuz I was looking at mounting depth but haven't installed yet.I have baffles for the front and some dynamat. Since you have 6.5 components up front got any tips? I was gonna buy that same amp. But I can't think of where I wanna put it.

Audiophile = me

Nothing like good music with crisp sound from quality equipment!!

 

Just a note on the rear speaker baffles, I had to modify mine to fit. You may have different results depending on what type of baffles you get. Mine were hard plastic, and couldn't fit into the opening in the car. So I took a small drill bit and made a hole on each face of the baffles exterior, a total of 4 holes. I made the holes equidistant from the mounting holes and equidistant from the top to bottom. Then I cut from each hole to the main opening. The idea is to allow the speaker baffle to fold over itself so that it can fit into the opening on the car, and so that the mounting holes line up. It took some doing. If it makes any more sense, you will have to drill and cut a channel for the speaker wire anyway. My process just made 3 more drill & cuts.

I have an old thread around here somewhere that details my front speaker installation. here, its on second page https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...p-or-subs.html

I ended up putting my amp in the trunk, with the mounting screws through the carpet. It will still flip up for battery access, and I can put a milk crate over the whole thing if I need to protect it while I carry stuff in the trunk.

 

I also installed my rears, Pioneer 6903i. It was not as difficult as i thought it would be.

Gyes, could someone show me what the baffles are? Sth like small cabins?

 

Something like these:
hard plastic (moderately flexible along diameter) - protects speakers from water and dirt. Provides a controlled space for sound yielding better quality, instead of the resonant prone boomy characteristics of door/quarter panel interiors. Plus they keep more sound inside the car, so from outside it is quieter. They make bass tight and sharp. If you want to feel your music, get some subs in addition to the rest of your speakers with baffles.



or these:
foam - only protects the speakers from water and dirt. They do not provide the sound enhancing qualities of hard plastic.

 

I got those foam ones from crutchfield for the front. Do they have the hard plastic ones?

 

I got my hard plastic speaker baffles from a local mobile audio shop. There are several around. So I walk into one and ask for speaker baffles. The guy asks, "what are speaker baffles?" At this I promptly leave and head to another shop, who had more than heard of them - they sold several types & sizes and even advocated their use.

 

I've read in other threads, or at least I thought I read, that the output from the Mini stock radio is 2 Ohm's and most after market speakers are rated at 4 Ohm's such as the Pioneer's mentioned in a previous post. Is this true for both R53 and R56's?

Have you taken that into account 'upstream' from the speakers such as running through a Amp or are you taking directly from the output of the Mini head unit? Does it matter?

 

The factory rear oval speakers, are rated at 5ohm, so i think this is not true. Today, i also changed the headunit anyway, with a Pioneer P5100UB, very good price/value, and i like the fact it has three high voltage (4V) pre outs.

Can someone give me a link on the baffles? I am not really satisfied from the upgrade of the rear ovals, i think that this is going to solve my problem.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Metra-81-6900-Un...QQcmdZViewItem


The kappas I have are rated for 2Ω/4Ω. I'm using a line-output converter from Navone Engineering to take the signal from my stock head unit to my amp.

You should have an easier time with an after market head unit. It took a long time experimenting and adjusting my output converter and amp's gain & crossover to get perfect sound.

My problem was a fuzzy static at high gain because of the signal from the stock head unit. But I resolved it by turning down the dials on the line-output converter to near off, then I was able to turn up the gain on my amp with no signal fuzz.

 

What happened to me is unbelievable. From the first time, i didn't like the sound from my new ovals and the new radio/cd player. Today, i tood apart everything again, and reversed the one speakers' terminals. And suddenly... WOW. It feels like there is an amp and an 8 inch sub back there! And the player, is absolytely best bang for buck. (actually euro :P ) Many may settings, and very nice sound. I am glad everything is sorted out!

And after this, i higly recommend to anyone upgrading the rear ovals. Cheap, easy and very effective!

 

IIRC, only the harman/kardon speakers are 2 ohms, the non-HK factory stereos use 4 ohm speakers. can't speak for DPSM owners, though, i hardly know anything about the DPSM system.