Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere, "JL" is too short to search on. I've seen a couple posts about people having success replacing the front 6.5" and 4" drivers with JL VR650-CXi and TR400-CX speakers. Since these are both "full range" speakers, I'm thinking the audio system handles crossing them over at the stock frequency? Reports were fit is very good.

Can anyone comment on this solution for replacing the front speakers? Pricewise it is appealing as both sets of speakers come out to about $200.

Thanks,
Paul

 

I replaced my front speakers with infinity kappas both with full range. I think it sounds good, I take the treble down a bit since the highs are a little more with 2 tweeters on each door. A set of components would also work well. Just make a piece of plastic to go were the 4 inch goes and attach the tweeter to it. If I did not get my Kappas for such a good price that is the way I would have gone.

 

Ooh! I like that! Replace the 4 inch with mounts for tweeters! Hadn't heard that one before!

 

Wetceal posted a thread about it with photos.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=120290

 

So Bob, if you've looked at the thread Robin points to,

Best guess as someone more knowledgeable than I in the audio world - do you think the speakers that wetseal/Sean used would do OK without the amp, driven by the head unit only, or would I really need an amp? I'd likely stay with the Diamond D3 6x9s in the rear and no sub for now.

Thanks,
Tom

 

Unless you're listening to really, really complex material, I think the OEM head unit does just fine with reasonably efficient speakers -- I think you're going to be okay.

--bob

 

Any thoughts or experieince with the original question? JL speakers in the doors?

Thanks.

 

This depends

The question is do you have the standard stereo or the HiFi?

Standard Stereo -
As it comes from the factory the front speakers are driven full range and the rear speakers are a cut off below 80-100 hz

There is a thread by k6trm that shows how to swap this so that the rear get full range and the fronts get the cut off but still both the front speakers get the same signal.

HiFi Stereo -
As it comes from the factory there are 8 channels as defined here

Rear Woofer x2
Rear Tweeter x2
Front Woofer x 2
Front Mid/Tweeter x2

And here the amp dose some crossover work. The front mid/tweeter set are cut below about 200 hz but the tweeter runs a capacitor so it only does higher freq above about 2-2.3khz.

So to your question the JL would work well okay.

Depending on the system you have as to what you should do so if you can answer the question about which system you have it would help us to help you.

 

I have those in my doors. Sound great. I've posted on them a lot in the "R56 Speaker Replacement" thread. Please PM me with any specific Qs.

Another poster, basil49 has them as well.

You need to let us know if you have the non-HiFi system or the HiFi one. The choice of speakers is very different for the 2 versions.

 

Sorry for leaving out the key details: I have the stock Boost system. After some more research (and seeing Basil's instructions), I picked up both pairs on Ebay.

Now I just need a compact subwoofer solution (lets go JL Stealthbox).

 

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...hp?fit_id=1433

Do these work in an R56? Anyone know?

 

From my understanding it will work in the R56 but is not an exact fit. Heard JL is close to completing the exact fit Stealthbox. I have one in my C6 Corvette and it sounds great! I dont think you can beat JL quality and sound. Im waiting for the dedicated R56 model for my MCS.

 

Another thread mentioned a Stealthbox announcement by mid/late November. I emailed JL asking for any info, nothing yet.

 

I have to admit, I'm somewhat leaning against the Stealthbox only because it requires a separate amp and I've convinced myself that my stereo upgrade projects have to have an honest limit - and I decided to stop short of adding an amp. The MINI is a very imperfect listening environment, and I elected that I can live with clarity and decent bass even if that means I won't get to taste the beautiful nectar of Focals, a MacIntosh amp and better speaker locations in my car. Kids with braces & travel dreams get in the way, don't they?

If the Stealthbox were powered and worked well with the existing MINI power supply and my low-power HU-speaker arangement, I think I'd bite. It does look nice and I'm sure it sounds great.

So I guess (so far) the Boss Audio Bass600 is for me. Don't let my pedestrian sound limits crimp anyone else's higher-grade style.

 

That's the way I lean as well -- yes, if I put on some really, really complex material and crank it up past 11, I can make the little OEM head unit clip like mad. But it's too loud when I do that, and too loud when I back it off from clipping. And the little bass600 in the boot thumps away merrily.

It's pedestrian, it's a compromise, it's limited in so many ways.

Well, so is my time and money. What I've got now works and is paid for.

The next step, an Alpine pdx.5, is a lot of money and a lot of work, and right now I don't think it's worth it.

But if you do, go for it, and let me know how it sounds!