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I think your and my definition of “overwhelming” are two different things... I would not even attempted that! Go you!
When I was a kid my Dad bought a brand new Corvair Greenbrier van. It had fitted rubber floor mats. Those would come out and he would take a hose to the inside. I think my Wrangler has floor plugs for doing the same sort of thing... Just sayin’.
Thanks Soul,
No spare always bothered me, Boy Scout, Be Prepared and all that.
Working on different things, adapting the aluminum track mats for no carpet, [didn't go as I planned so had to switch gears there but it's working out]. Working on painting the rear seat delete but the very first coat of blue ended up with 3-4 nickle sized "fish-eyes", so I stopped, let it dry, sanded and re-primered. No clue where it came from. Wiped the panels down, 3 filters and the air goes through an A/C filter-dryer to remove moisture, AND a section of desiccant hose, so back to square one there.
Getting ready to paint the roll bar just to do something different. Hoping that goes smoother.
Pic's, the good and the bad, to follow.
robj
After having to re-do the paint on the RSD, I thought I would do something where I have more confidence in my ability.
Rattle Can!
I've got the RSD primed and letting it sit a day before sanding so I switched to painting the roll bar [in between fitting the carpet delete track mats].
Turned out good, all flowed together and best part, no runs. Maybe I should stick to rattle cans!
Now let that sit a few days, [good excuse to hold off on painting the RSD] and fit the drivers side track mat.
rj
Sure is red...
And shiny. At least it flowed out good.
4 cans with a tiny bit left over. 2-3 pretty wet coats.
So you decided to go for more of a stealthy race car theme, huh? 🤣
Ha!!! Thanks for noticing!
I figured if you're going to go through the aggravation of installing a roll bar it might as well show up! Plus it matches the springs, sway bar and the Cabrio frame horn supports. There's some method to my madness...
robj
I went with the more stealthy look for my roll bar...
Rattle cans have gotten to be pretty good and that bar of yours looks good. The red will blend in well with the blue interior....
But, I am not sure the MINI needs a roll bar. There is strong evidence that even stupidity can’t crush the roof of one of these things. This showed up on another thread I am following:
I'm more concerned about the shower of broken glass from the panoramic sunroof, should that ever happen in Grumpy. I've done it once without a roll bar, don't want to do it again. That little Subaru took it like a champ, though. It's been almost 20 years since I rolled that Impreza down an embankment.
Roll bar will add a nice contrasting color pop to the interior, Rob. I have yet to pick up a proper spray gun, but I'm pretty handy with the rattle can.
The panoramic sun roof in the Gen I MINIs is pretty nice and works well. Ours can be left open at highway speed without too much noise. The one I had on my 2007 R56 Gen II MINI was pretty bad. Very noisy. I didn’t get one on my 2012 R56. And my F56 JCW came without one. However, if you want an upgraded F56, it comes with one whether you want it or not. A downside to them is they raise the center of gravity and add weight to the car. Neither are good for performance driving. And then there is your point... A shower of glass if you roll the car...
I was never a big fan of a sunroof but Blue Car had one so not much to be done. I really wasn't as concerned about a rollover as the challenge of having an out of the way mounting point for a spare. Sort of an involved engineering exercise. Plus it looks cool...
And having paid only $500 for Blue Car I felt pretty free to do whatever tripped my trigger. Of course I probably have 5-6K in it at this point but I still have the same mentality.
I have the receipts but I'm really hesitant about adding it up! Ha!
I think you will like your sun roof, when you are cruising about. There is a certain pride and personal enjoyment in your work that that is evident. That makes this interesting to follow...
The RSD paint job fail was due to some really big fisheyes from some sort of contamination. I post the good and the bad, pic's below. The RSD has since been sanded and 2 wet coats of primer. Maybe paint tomorrow, but the schedule of paint is gong to be a little tricky, top, bottom, base coat , clear coat. I haven't quite figured out the order that's going to happen.
The track mats for the floor. That's going pretty well but lots of figuring as I go. I was originally planning bolts through the floor, nuts holding them on, then another nut and washer higher then an acorn nut and washer on top to make removing and cleaning under the track mats easier. Well that didn't work due to frame stiffeners and the sub-frame mounting points, There were too few places to put the bolts.
Ended up using sheetmetal screws to mount to raised portions of the floor pan.
On the rear outside corner of the pass. side I needed a block. I cut a chunk of mahogany, base coat /clear coat then used double sided Gorilla tape to stick it to the floor. Worked out well. No pics but I still need blocks for the drivers side.
As the main point of this exercise was to mount a spare, I couldn't wait to see what it looked like and how it fit.
Need to finish up the track mat on the drivers side, finish the install on the RSD, [as long as the paint goes well] install the headliner then wrestle the roll bar and the side panels into place.
Slowly but surely...
Pics Below.
RSD paint fail. Really big fish-eyes...On the right was a light reflection, left is the fisheye. You can see where the blue just ran away.
Little ones...
RSD ready for sanding and another try. Hoping this goes better.
Passenger Carpet delete track mat installed. I like it, and the dog hair will blow out with an air hose.
Drivers side. I need to make 2 blocks for this, one next to the gas pedal and one in the left rear. I also added a Sprint Power Booster for increased throttle response. I'll be interested to see how that works out. Read lots of pros and cons.
The reason for all this. I couldn't wait.
Another view.
Plumb and square. Looks a little wonky in the photo but not in person. [It's actually a little hard to tell how it will sit once inside the car. If it's a little "off" visually I'l just put a washer under one of the studs as a spacer. That's why I oriented the studs up and down.]
Cut that a little close! About 1/8" between the tire and the bar.
Wide view.
So far so good. Took a little longer than I hoped but that happens with engineer as you go..
I think it works.
Rob, things are looking great and I've enjoyed following along on your build. If it were me, I'd install a small block of foam between the tire and the roll bar. Just something that would need a bit of compression. My thought is it would help prevent any vibrations caused by the wheel flexing under stress. Otherwise, I have really enjoyed your build. I've been building mine over that last few months and will probably do most of what you have done with subframes and such. I guess maybe I should do a build thread. Keep up the great work!
[QUOTE=smschriefer;4545361]Rob, things are looking great and I've enjoyed following along on your build. If it were me, I'd install a small block of foam between the tire and the roll bar. Just something that would need a bit of compression. My thought is it would help prevent any vibrations caused by the wheel flexing under stress."
I have though about doing "something" along those lines. To be honest, the weld is very substantial [3 passes] and the short piece of tubing is really thick wall, like a little over 1/4" thick- almost 3/8", I'll measure as to be honest I forget.
In addition the hub was turned down to fit into the tubing so no loss of tubing material there either. It's pretty robust. I had thought about a gusset from the roll bar to the thick wall but after welding it up and realizing the weak point was the roll bar tubing itself, the gussets really wouldn't have helped. I did trade the grade 5 bolts with grade 8 mostly as I like the gold zinc color, Ha!
If there is a weak point, it's probably with the original roll bar tubing as it's thinner so I'm not sure that's actually a weak point or not.
But in the rear the tire is right where the top seat latches bolt into the body. If I do anything I was going to put a threaded metal/rubber pad in one of those holes and adjust it until it presses on the tire. I'm thinking the further out a steadying point is the more effect it will have.
I did find a rubber plug in my collection of "stuff" that fits in the hole in the hub where the axle went, so that was a fun tidbit to finish things off.
Painting the RSD is again put off as my compressor blew out a start capacitor [really blew it out- like oil coming out of it] But Amazon had them, [go figure]. I ordered both and they're supposed to be here Sunday.
But the good news is maybe I can finish up the DS track pad and get the new headliner installed.
To be honest, I did the build thread mostly as a record for myself, and maybe it might inspire, or give some helpful hints to others.
About a week ago I went through the entire thing. Holy sh*t I've put a lot of work into what was initially a 2 month project, but it's been fun.
That being said I'm really looking forward to finishing up this chapter. I need a ride! Or 10... and my dog is getting pissed. Riding in the truck just isn't the same!
And here I was thinking a strip of dense rubber, possibly with a piece of fabric to eliminate squeaking, glued the the roll bar vertical at the point it's closest to the tire, so that when you torque the lugs it compresses slightly into the wheel.
You've put more energy into your build thread than most of us have in our cars.
You're an inspiration Rob. Or a cautionary tale. 🤣
And here I was thinking a strip of dense rubber, possibly with a piece of fabric to eliminate squeaking, glued the the roll bar vertical at the point it's closest to the tire, so that when you torque the lugs it compresses slightly into the wheel.
You've put more energy into your build thread than most of us have in our cars.
You're an inspiration Rob. Or a cautionary tale. 🤣
Husky,
I would lean toward the latter. To thine own self be true...
Part of my job for 45 years has included writing or dictating reports, so I guess it comes naturally. I've probably filled 200-300 file cabinets, much to my secretary[s] chagrin. I'm sure they hear my voice in their sleep... I feel for them.
So I had a few beers around dinner time and felt a nap coming on. Ended up 2 hours instead of a quickie, so back to the Mini and quitting time was just now, 5am.
But I got the track mats done and the rest of the plastic bits on, [with the exception of the 2 back panels which go on with the roll bar].
And, I got the new headliner installed.
[and I don't care about what Husky says, it was a fiddly POS to install!]
But after 5-6 hours it's in and done. F'ing plastic clips...
I got a notice from my former friends at Amazon saying the start capacitors for the air compressor that were supposed to come tomorrow, [today] won't be here until Tuesday, so painting the RSD is again postponed.
So whenever I get started tomorrow the next thing is roll bar installation. Might be a challenge. But it doesn't look like it'll interfere with installing the RSD, so roll bar it is.
rj
Track mats, check.
Plastic bits. Check.
New headliner. It will be nice not to have drooping sh*t flapping in the breeze and foam bits dropping on the dash. A PIA but worth it.
You have to wonder how they do the headliner in the factory, if it is that much of a PIA to do...
I have a small section of the headliner on our R50 that has come loose. I have some spray glue that I hope to be able to get into the loose area so I can stick it back together.
"You have to wonder how they do the headliner in the factory, if it is that much of a PIA to do... "
I think it's a little more difficult with the sunroof, but I'm sure it's like anything else, you do the same job day in and day out you get pretty good at it.
I had a problem with 15 year old clips breaking and getting things in the right spot. Especially the front of the front sunroof surround. The clips there broke and I ended up using some clips for the rear side panels which were similer but not exact.
I do have a b*tch with the cost of the clips, anywhere from $2.50 to $3.50-$4 each. And I had the thought that as all the clips are somewhat similar and all do just about the same thing, why have a different clip for all the different plastic pieces,
Maybe the designers of the roof trim could have talked to the designers of the side panels?
"Hey guys, I have an idea, lets make as many of the clips as we can the same?" Fewer different parts, less parts to stock, less angst on the assembly line.
I hope the spray adhesive works out for you. If the sag isn't too bad it should. Mine was way past that. The foam backing is actually part of the cloth and is glued to the hardboard. When the foam gets old and falls apart, the cloth sags.
Ok, rant over. It's just me being grumpy. Not my usual state...
The cloth on my has pulled away, like the glue was no good and failed over time. And it is only a small section.
I’ll rant a little more for you about that sort of thing with MINI/BMW (it is pushing 100 degF air temp outside in Upstate NY, so why not... ). I just got track brake pads for the rear of my JCW. When I saw the pads in person I said... Hmmmm, looks just like the R56 rear pad. So I got out a set and put the two side-by-side. Nope, different and that difference is in the tang that holds them in place. Slightly different shape. But otherwise the rest of the pad is the same size and shape. Why different? I know in my previous life, inventory costs were by part number. More part numbers, the higher the costs. No wonder these cars are so expensive and/or BMW is loosing money... I love these little cars, but sometimes.... Rant over... Off to the basement to run the router over some wood-ish stuff (MDF)... for speakers...
[QUOTE=Eddie07S;4545507]The cloth on my has pulled away, like the glue was no good and failed over time. And it is only a small section.
If it's like mine you'll find part of the foam still glued to the press-board and it's actually the foam backing on the cloth that's failed. I think the spray adhesive will work for a while but you're in effect gluing failing foam to failing foam. [sorry, don't shoot the messenger,]
Don't forget to spray the adhesive to both surfaces, the cloth and the press-board, [as best you can] then wait 2-3 minutes before pressing it into place, [if using rubber cement type adhesive]
rob
With the help of my son-in-law, Christian, we got the roll bar in place and I have to say it was a bit of a struggle.
Big credit to the other NAM member that cut the ovals in the side panels for the down tubes as opposed to just a big slot. The ovals were a real pain to get the panels and the downtimes installed. To be honest, as particular as I am, I'm don't think I would do it that way again. It was a real struggle.
The issue is, you have the main hoop loosely installed, then have to slide the downtime up through the side cover, get it to slide into the tube on the main hoop then get under and in back of the side cover to install the bolts for the down tube bracket. At the same time the side cover is very restricted in movement at the front as it's behind the main hoop. Hard to explain and even harder to do!
So big credit to the other member that did both sides this way!
I couldn't do this on the drivers side as the spare tire bracket prevents the downtime from sliding up through the hole so I cut a slot and I'm hoping it will move enough to get the side panel on with the tube in place.
Doing it again I would just cut the slot in both sides. So the hard side is done, hoping the DS goes easier.
But I was lucky as the bracket for the top of the rear seat, [the latch] presses perfectly on the tire as an anti-vibration device! And it's even slightly adjustable so I can have more or less pressure as desired.
Holding off on mounting the main hoop. I forgot to order the grade 8 Nyloc nuts so they'll be here tomorrow. There's a flat plate that goes under the car and when I install that I'm going to put 2 layers of butyl tape between that and the floor. It never gets hard and excess will squeeze out leave a waterproof seal. I use it all the time on deck hardware on boats. Great stuff.
Air compressor is still out of commission so the RSD will be mid-week.
So, the second side panel and the inner fender liners can go back together, Then the main hoop mounts tomorrow.
Pics below.
rob j
All in all I think it looks good and was worth the effort. Just as I envisioned.
Rear view. Hoping the panel on that side goes on easier...
The lucky part. Built in anti-vibration. [the black loop thing]
The hateful side. Trying to get up under there for the bolts, then breaking 4 clips at the front of the panel getting it on. I don't think I would do it this way again.
Hopefully this slot will make the DS easier. I would do both sides this way to be honest. I have dark grey HD duct tape that will cover the slot. Plus it's behind the spare.
Square and plumb. No washers needed. Calling it a win...
With the help of my son-in-law, Christian, we got the roll bar in place and I have to say it was a bit of a struggle.
Big credit to the other NAM member that cut the ovals in the side panels for the down tubes as opposed to just a big slot. The ovals were a real pain to get the panels and the downtimes installed. To be honest, as particular as I am, I'm don't think I would do it that way again. It was a real struggle.
The issue is, you have the main hoop loosely installed, then have to slide the downtime up through the side cover, get it to slide into the tube on the main hoop then get under and in back of the side cover to install the bolts for the down tube bracket. At the same time the side cover is very restricted in movement at the front as it's behind the main hoop. Hard to explain and even harder to do!
So big credit to the other member that did both sides this way!
I couldn't do this on the drivers side as the spare tire bracket prevents the downtime from sliding up through the hole so I cut a slot and I'm hoping it will move enough to get the side panel on with the tube in place.
Doing it again I would just cut the slot in both sides. So the hard side is done, hoping the DS goes easier.
But I was lucky as the bracket for the top of the rear seat, [the latch] presses perfectly on the tire as an anti-vibration device! And it's even slightly adjustable so I can have more or less pressure as desired.
Holding off on mounting the main hoop. I forgot to order the grade 8 Nyloc nuts so they'll be here tomorrow. There's a flat plate that goes under the car and when I install that I'm going to put 2 layers of butyl tape between that and the floor. It never gets hard and excess will squeeze out leave a waterproof seal. I use it all the time on deck hardware on boats. Great stuff.
Air compressor is still out of commission so the RSD will be mid-week.
So, the second side panel and the inner fender liners can go back together, Then the main hoop mounts tomorrow.
Pics below.
rob j
All in all I think it looks good and was worth the effort. Just as I envisioned.
Rear view. Hoping the panel on that side goes on easier...
The lucky part. Built in anti-vibration. [the black loop thing]
The hateful side. Trying to get up under there for the bolts, then breaking 4 clips at the front of the panel getting it on. I don't think I would do it this way again.
Hopefully this slot will make the DS easier. I would do both sides this way to be honest. I have dark grey HD duct tape that will cover the slot. Plus it's behind the spare.
Square and plumb. No washers needed. Calling it a win...
Very nice work!!!
I've found myself in the position more than once where the elegant solution I envisioned before I started didn't seem nearly as beautiful once I was several hours and fully committed to doing it.
My only helpful input would be to put something in the slot to try to minimize noise from the plastic rubbing/vibrating together.
07-12-2020, 07:40 AM
"
Rant over... Off to the basement to run the router over some wood-ish stuff (MDF)... for speakers... 
