I am about to take out my Shrick and put the stock cam back in...

I have installed cams in 5.0's and watched when they installed the shrick in mine.

But, I dont recall what you have to do with the little tensioner deal. I know you have to remove it, push it down and stick it back in the block, but I don't recall what you have to do to reset it.

As far as the sprocket goes, just snug it back up and torque to 75lbs ft?

 

Yep, I sure have. You can just put it back in and start the motor - the oil pressure will reset it on start up.

Yeah, you torque the sprocket (I think that's right on the spec, but I don't have it right here). You will need the factory tool to hold it while you torque it though.

Good luck!
Randy

 

Thanks Randy!

 

i was thinking about doing a came... why the removal.

 

Glad to help

Randy

 

I just wondering why you are going back to stock? are selling the car?

 

You do not need any tool. The tensioner just reset (put together with hands) and give it back to place. Without tool it's a little difficult to get bolt into the hole, but's it's go with hard work.
No problems at all on this way.

Sprocket on the cam is torque to 102Nm (I do not know how much lbs is that). The bearings (5 of them) which hold the cam are torque to 30Nm.
You can do your own tool for holding it. It's not hard work.

 

Fisher - thanks for the info, I have the service manual and what you said is spot on. I don't have access to a welder or I would make my own tool as well, so I have a call in to Jayson @ Classic to see what he can get me the proper tool for. The tool means I could do cam swaps for others in the future.


The reason the cam is coming out - I am sick of the idle. I want to be able to get in the car and go.

I am not going back to stock in all areas - I am keeping the the Thumper head and alta pulley, otherwise I still have the JCW airbox, injectors, suspension and the GP ECU tune. I also have the water injection.

To be quiet honest the car feels way better stepping back a little. I would venture to say I am still north of the 200whp mark.

Basically what I have created is a JCW car with a little extra go juice.

Quite surprisingly I have felt little to no difference in power after removing the header, larger intercooler, and retrofitting the JCW airbox (minus the flap) but the car feels much smoother.

Bottom line is its a shame it costs you a few thousand to find out things were better with stock peices than their aftermarket equivelent.

I do have to say the WI and stock intercooler have been a great match - good throttle response and still keeping IAT's in line.

Cheers Mates!

 

people say
the end of tuning is stock..

 

I wouldn't say that. I highly suspect if I wanted to dump a lot more money into tuning, more could be had - but eventually (08/09) I will be moving on to a JCW R56.....

 

Idling issues with a Schrick camshaft? It creates plenty of vacuum to idle just as the stock cam does. You ought to diagnose the issue -- trace the source as it is not the cam.

 

Don't get me wrong, the car runs just fine, just tired of the idle hunt when its cold.

The problem came in with the cam, I suspect it will leave with the cam.

Changing back to the stock header helped it out considerably.

 

Just trying to be helpful (as usual): Your idle issues are not cam related. It has nothing to do with a header either. Diagnose...

 

If you wanna I can give you some pictures of that tool to your mail.

 

Thanks Don for the help, but its already diagnosed:

Installed cam - slightly rough idle when cold.
Installed head with same cam - a touch rougher when cold

Remove cam - problem that was with cam goes away.

The car runs fine except for when cold. If the car is warm and I start it, no problem exisits.

The dealer said that sometimes this can also occur due to some of the software versions out there - when it cycles the purge valve I get the lopey idle.

 

Then change the software; not the cam.

 

I want to change the cam! I am having issues with traction as is!

 

Fine. All I'm pointing out is a Schrick cam does absolutely nothing to the idle control as it creates plenty of vacuum and the idle speed is controlled by the software through the throttle body. Quaife?

 

I don't need an extra $3000 in parts for a car I might only keep another year...

 

At idling with hard cam you will get a little oscillate rpm.

With schrick you can see a little difference at idling.

I have remembered at my old fiat when I get the abarth cam. The rpm at idling has changing for about 300rpm.
That's normal for racing cam.