Hey guys...

I just had my car in the dealership, and they are telling me I have 2mm of pad left on the front, and 3 mm in the rears. Clearly, I need new pads and rotors at a minimum.

I've been reading as much as possible in related threads, but I've really having a difficult time figuring out what the best solution for me would be.

I have a car putting very nearly, and soon more than 190 hp to the wheels. I drive fairly aggressively when I can do so safely, and I autocross about once a month on average.

I recently drove an R56 MCS... the brakes on it felt great on the street. I'm essentially looking for the truly best solution for my situation. While autocrossing, I never experienced any brake fade with the stockers, as they are typically pretty short 50-60 second runs. I'd like something that maybe looks a little nicer, but I'm not sure if new calipers are really needed.

I have 17x7 Palo Uber rims with a 42 offset.

So what do you think brake experts? I don't want to spend a huge sum of money (over $1500 total), and it's entirely possible that some powerslots and pad recommendations would be the way to go.

Anyhow, I appreciate any responses you guys can put up soon... I need to make my choice as soon as possible.

 

i have three letters for you.....TCE he has such a choice of great upgrades that i'm sure that you will find one which fits you needs.

 

If you have not experienced brake fade on the track (to your knowledge)...a set of powerslots and a good set of pads like Axxis will suit you just fine. There is no need for you to upgrade to a BBK. Oh, BTW...upgrading your fluid to Motul RBF600 and putting SS brake lines will vastly improve braking performance.

 

Go with the Powerslots and one of the popular aftermarket brake pads, Hawk, EBC etc... The stainless steel brake lines, Motul and caliper bushings is my upgrade of choice, later the spring. Check out http://www.detroittuned.com

 

Why would you need new rotors? Are they warped? Have they been turned down to the minimum thickness through turning on previous brake jobs already?

 

MINI says that you can't machine the factory disks at all. They say you have to replace them.

 

if you haven't had face, you don't NEED anything. That said, you'll get better braking with better pads. I'm a big fan of the metal caliper bushings. I'm not a big fan of the JCW brake kit. It's still got a single piston floating caliper, and it's heavy.

Like others have said, if you must upgrade to a bigger brake kit (and I wouldn't until you start to experience fade. Why spend a grand to fix a problem you don't have?) then give Todd at TCE a call. Remember that big brake kits pay a penalty in increased unsprung weight. They may fill the wheel nicer but you're paying for the look with degredation in handling. Don't go there unless you need to. TCE has kits from a but under 12" rotors at 0.81 thick to over 13" rotors over an inch thick.

There are other kits out there, but I've found that Todds kits to have the range of options that will meet everyones needs at good price points. If you have a specific need (custom race car or use case) you can work with Todd to package you a kit of just what you need.

Matt

Matt

 

Agreed, they will treat you well.

 

Thanks for the replies guys! I'm leaning towards your more "basic" fresh rotors and pads, SS lines, and good fluid vs. a big brake kit. I think for my usage, it would be overkill, and I'm not really up for wasting funds for bling in this circumstance.

Has anyone tried the EBC Yellowstuff pads? There are just so many rotor and pad choices, I'm trying to reduce my options. TSW has new rotors coming soon... that might be cool to try out for the greater good. I have a buddy with powerslot cryo treated, and he kind of regrets not going with the normal powerslots, as they work really great in his last autocross run when they are nice and hot, but when they are cold...not so much.

So narrowing things down guys... any rotor/pad combo's for normal to hard street 95%, monthly autocross 5% usage?

Thanks!

 

Stock. I actually like them. They dust too much, but are very linear. And they're free if you're in your warranty period! Work good cold.

EBC Greens. Lower dust because of the Kevlar construction. Some have complained about fade, but I didn't feel it with changed fluid and metal bushings on a couple of track events. Works good cold, soft on rotors. No extreme bite. Quiet.

EBC Reds. More dust. More noise. A bit more bite. Like to be at least warm. Seemed about average for an occational track pad. Harder on the rotors.

Ferodo 2500. More dust still. A bit of noise coming to a stop. Harder on rotors. Needs heat. Sticks like friggin glue!

That's all I'm good for!

Matt

 

And I won't even try to sell you anything.

Mic the rotors and see if they are in spec. Put on some new pads (insert arguement here on brand) and if you want to spend some money; install some Stainless steel hoses.

Changing rotors won't make your car stop better. You don't need 'race' pads, and you don't need any track fluid that'll never see high temps.

Scuff up the rotors, pic a pad, consider some hoses, buy some off the shelf cheap fluid and enjoy your car. Take the money you saved and go for a drive.

 

Umm... free? I'm still under warranty... or is that the 3 year maintenance thingy your talking about. I ask because the dealership didn't offer a thing for free!

 

Just because the pads require replacement does not mean the rotors must be, too. You's be surprised how easy it is to change pads. Changing rotors is not big deal either.

 

Brake pads are part of the 3 year maintenance. There is a local Mini that gets tracked quite often using a lot of pads. The dealership keeps changing them under the 3 year deal.

 

I thought the rule was under 4mm = replacement pads. Check this out and push it if that's really the case.

mb

 

I'd steer clear of EBC. I had GreenStuff pads, new calipers all around with EBC dimpled and slotted rotors on my CRX and they failed within six months

Ken at minibrakes.com is a Hawk, Brembo and dba distributor (and a vendor here) - He's got some good stuff to look at if you haven't already made a decision with the excellent avenues mentioned above.

 

Has anyone tried the Mintex Redbox pads yet? I am thinking of going that route instead of the EBCs. TIA

 

i had them for a few months before going with the detroit tuned big brake kit

the red boxes look thicker than the stocks, the bite is about the same as stock, and they where a lot less dusty

 

My brake set-up pre StopTechs.
Brembo Sport Slotted Rotors (From Tire Rack)
Hawk HPS pads (Tire Rack)
Bronze Caliper Bushings (Turner Motorsports)
Goodridge Brake Hoses ( I forgot!)
Worked very well!
Jim

 

I'll chime in with MI MINI S on the DT Stage 1 Brake Kit. Except I got 'em last week at 45,500 +/- miles and like the results.

 

Dr. O: the TCE plus 4 kit w/ forged superlite calipers and aluminum hats are lighther than oem. no degradation in handling!

 

Matt

 

Dr. O: a few thoughts and questions for you....
light weight calipers won't effect MOI since they don't rotate (at least not in the plane to which we are referring). aluminum hats will have a minimal effect since they are near the center of the wheel. so, these two elements will only help decrease unsprung weight, which by itself will improve handling. i agree, then, that MOI must increase with more mass in the rotors at a larger diameter.
now to the questions: isn't the increase in MOI most noticable under braking and isn't this more than compensated for by the potential increase in braking torque available? will my choice of lightweight wheels (SSR type C-RS) more than offset the increase in MOI due to more mass in the rotors?
i appreciate your contributions (as well as others who give this forum significant thought). you, meb, txwerks, dmh, and a few others have caused me to buy some books, read, and try to learn more about the dynamics involved in car suspensions/braking. i read more than i post, but i will contribute when i think that i can.....