hey everyone...

Just checking to see if anyone in MINI hawaii land out there has had any experience taking off their rear bumper. I just bought the MINIature trailer receiver hitch (http://www.miniaturetrailer.com/hitch.php). I've been debating a long time now how I would transport my bike, surfboard, etc; except I've been torn with putting any visible holes into my precious cooper. So this seemed like an incognito option and seems to have been well accepted by users from the NAM and MINI2 forums (plus my 8' surfboard will fit in the car).

Anyway, if anyone has advice for me or wouldn't mind lending a hand sometime I'd be more than happy to accept it. In particular, what's the best way to raise the back of the car (lift, ramps, dual jacks--i hear that's not as safe).

Thanks in advance...

 

The directions that came with my MINI trailer hitch were very comprehensive. Only took a couple hours following the directions. There was nothing difficult about the install. My recommendation is to buy me a plane ticket out there, put me up for a week, and I'll do the whole install by myself. I'm here to help.

 

The only reason you need to lift the back of the car (per the instructions) is to remove BOTH rear wheels - so ramps aren't really an option. I used my floor jack on each FRONT jack point to lift the car high enough to put a jack stand under the REAR jack point on that side, then went to the other side and did the same thing - so I had both rear jack points up on stands.

That said, you don't REALLY have to lift the rear OR remove the rear wheels to install this hitch. If you have a really stubby phillips screwdriver, or a "right angle" phillips screwdriver, you can remove the fender lining clips inside the wheel well WITHOUT taking the wheel off. It's a little easier if you jack that side a bit (not all the way off the ground - just lift the body a little to give you more hand clearance between the tire and the fender lining.

This is probably the easiest and safest way to do it, IMHO. I put mine on jackstands when I first did the install - but then an hour later had to take the bumper cover off again to fix a loose parking distance control sensor, and that time did NOT put it back on the stands, just undid the clips as described and followed the rest of the directions to remove the bumper cover.

If this doesn't make sense or you have more questions, feel free to PM me.

 

Great points Blimey. I did not jack my car up....just used a stubby phillips.

 

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input... I was actually wondering if taking the rear wheels off was really necessary. I think I'll try out the stubby screwdriver out of ease.

Would you say that in the case I'm not removing the wheels, that ramps would be a good option for providing more clearance to the back while I'm working?

 

You really don't need to lift it - there's only one bolt to remove from underneath beside the exhaust - you'll have to lay on your back for that one no matter what...

 

Thanks... did the install today... it went well, a little nerve racking since this was the first time I really took apart a good portion of my MINI.

The only problem now is... I just tried to put on my hitch tongue for my Yakima bike hitch rack, and it hits the bumper before the holes can line up for securing it. Looks like I need another inch to get it secure.

Anyone else have this problem? I think I'll need to get a hitch extension. Any recommedations on an affordable solution? Has anyone bought an adapter to convert it to a 2" hitch receiver (will that fit through the rear fog hole?).

Happy with the install, just a little anti-climactic with the tongue not fitting...

 

So far the only thing I've needed to try (my Cargo Buddy) worked like a charm - but I understand the issue you're having. I'd recommend you find the shortest extension possible. The longer you extend it, the greater the stress on the receiver hitch... you could do a 2" receiver extension, I'd just be careful not to then treat it like you have a "real" 2" receiver and start putting heavy stuff (like BIG cargo racks) on there - afraid it would break under that kind of load... but a bike rack should be OK.

The 6" long 1-1/4" extender here would probably do the trick...
http://www.drawtite-hitches.com/exte...FQsEVAodnlYvPg
I'd measure first just to make sure 6" of length would let the pin and clip clear the bumper. Otherwise would go with the 10" long one.

 

Is there room on the Yakima rack to drill another hole 1" closer to the end?

My bike rack was a "bolt to the hitch" type, and to use it on my Tracker I had to buy a longer (but stock) hitch bar to make it clear the spare tire. Recently I redrilled one for a similar problem.

John

 

There may be a little room, but then the tongue becomes flushed with the bumper, I'm thinking that would lead to bumper damage.

Right now, I'm looking to possible getting a welder to extend it 6 inches or so. The other option is to just go for a different rack, but if possible, I'd really like to stick with Yakima.