Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Suspension Madness Camber Plates

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Old Mar 9, 2003 | 01:22 PM
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track-toy's Avatar
track-toy
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Has anybody tried the Madness Camber Plates? I'm assuming these are for the rear suspension. I have the H&R springs and I'd like to reduce the negative camber that I now have. There's no price on the Madness site for these so maybe they are still in production, but not ready for delivery. Anyway, if anyone has tried these could you post your experience with them.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2003 | 01:41 PM
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notpaddyhopkirk
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Mckinneymini,
The Camber Plates listed on the MM site are for the front suspension. They do have rear control arms though, and they will take care of the camber change on the rear of your car. Here is the link:
Mini Madness Rear Control Arms

You can also chck out these from H-Sport:
H-Sport Page with Rear Camber Links

Personally, I think that the Madness links with their heim joint ends look mighty fine.


 
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Old Mar 9, 2003 | 02:02 PM
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Thanks notpaddyhopkirk, this is what I need. Should I adjust for neutral camber at ride height?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2003 | 03:01 PM
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You should also check these adjustable rear control arms from Helix. I saw them in the shop and I can tell you they are very nice. Lightweight too.
You also get all four, instead of just the two from the other vendor.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2003 | 03:13 PM
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Thanks for the helix info. Looks good! Many choices!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2003 | 04:11 PM
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notpaddyhopkirk
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Wow! The Helix links look great, and at half the price!

Anybody want to split a set?


 
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Old Mar 9, 2003 | 04:12 PM
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i lowered my car with H&R coilovers; the front camber stays about stock (-1degree) but the rear goes too negative. I installed 4 adjustable rear control arms and set the cruising camber to -1 degree.

there was some talk in thr racing forum about an autox class change if your adjustable arms change the type of bushing. The madness and Helix arms (and the ones I made) use spherical rod ends; since the stock condition is elastomeric bushings, you may have a class issue.

If all you watn is to change camber, you need one adjustable arm on each side (lower). if you wnt to set toe, you need all four.

As far as I can tell, the madness front camber plates don't work on post 3/02 cars.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2003 | 04:55 PM
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I might end up regretting this but I'm going with the MM lower control arms only because I don't think I need toe adjustments (and the MMs look good). But you never know, geometry can get complex. Once I get the MMs on, maybe pulling in the camber might throw the toe off. I'm hoping someone's tested this and it's not so. I don't want to keep throwing parts at this to fix it. George at Mini-Madness, what do you think?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2003 | 06:00 PM
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The toe change with ride height was one of the questions I had as well - since the control arms aren't exactly in line with the axle center.

John (jlm) had done some toe measurements with teh rear control arms, and found that the toe change is very minimal.

I'd be glad to supply you with whichever set you decide on - jlm's, MM's or Helix's. Give me a call on Monday, as I'm going to try to catch up with e-mails and phone calls tomorrow.

Randy
720-841-1002
 
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Old Mar 9, 2003 | 06:32 PM
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From: Tustin CA
Randy,
Can you split up a set of the Helix links?
All I really want is two to bring my camber back in line.

Thanks,
Eric
 
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Old Mar 9, 2003 | 08:08 PM
  #11  
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I don't have any here, but I'll try to find out for you on Monday (tomorrow).
 
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Old Mar 9, 2003 | 08:10 PM
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Randy, I'll call you Monday AM soonest your time.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 08:18 PM
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I'm curious why you guys are wanting to change the rear camber? I've lowered my MCS with the H&R springs and the rear is at about -2 degrees which seems quite reasonable, especially for track use; even more so now that I have the Madness rear sway bar.

So, why don't y'all like the -2 degrees in the rear? What am I missing?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2003 | 03:35 AM
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Upon lowering, I got about 2.5 degrees negative, but for straight line driving. this will cause more wear on the inside of the tire tread, probably something you can live with, but not optimum. For the track, you have to do a tire temp test to see, but I agree, 2-2.5 sounds about right, giving better corner contact, wear not being an issue.

as far as the stiffer sway bar, it should reduce body roll in corners, therefore reducing the need for more negative camber during turns, but you have to temp the tires to find out.
 
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