I just received my '05 MCS and had the H-sport springs and WMS Extreme Swaybar installed. The car looks and handles great but at city speeds, every little bump in the road causes creaking/clanging sound under the rear seat. I hear nothing at highway speeds. If this is normal, I will be taking it off and putting the stock one back on!
If this is not normal, can someone tell my what the problem might be?
I am also experiencing a "thud" from the left rear wheel area on small, city-speed bumps. Could the springs have been installed improperly?
I am going to call Randy today to get his input, but sometimes he is hard to get ahold of, hence this thread.

 

When ever you make more than one change at a time it becomes very difficult to chase down problems.

I would expect this bar to be noisy, based on my experience with other straight race set ups.

 

Every sway bar with end links like that that I have ever been around has been FAR from silent.

Maybe there is a way to at least reduce the noise though. I'm sure Randy will help you as much as he can.

 

Again, here we go. Whats up with people posting threads like this? It seems to be quite a few that are newcomers?
Why would you not just get on the phone with Randy rather then ask people here, especially since there are so few that actually have this bar yet? What answers will you get here that you can't get from Webb themselves?

Sorry, maybe it's the long NE winters.... , but I guess I have a bug up my a** about this stuff these days...

 

I'd say take it back to the installer. It's their responsibility to ensure everything was installed correctly, and if the bar is hitting the body (there's not much room back there) they should be able to adjust/grind as necessary.

 

Hey guys,

Sorry for the delayed response, I just found this thread since I have not been able to sit at the computer all day... Why do we have deadlines again? Anyways, here are a few things you can check yourself:

1. Check and make sure all of the parts are installed in the correct order (refer to the expanded view supplied in the kit).
2. Take a look down the length of the actual bar to see if there is any rubbing between the underbody and the bar. We originally had a problem with clearance in that area but resolved it with a change in the bearing block.
3. Check to see if all of the droplink bolts are tight.
4. Make sure the tech installed the spacers between the bottom endlink joint and the trailing arm.
5. Make sure the gray bushing is installed between the subframe mount and the locking collar (make sure the locking collar is tight).

If all of this is done correctly, there should not be ANY noise. The popping sound I referred to in a previous thread was caused by the prototype not having the gray bushing I talked about in #5.

Obviously there are many things that can be installed incorrectly. Who installed it for you? Where you able to reach any of us today? I don’t remember hearing from you (we have been burried under cars all day). If you want, please feel free to call tomorrow.

-Brian

 

I was having this creaking/popping noise on mine over the past couple of months and couldnt locate where it was coming from. I knew it was the sway bar...but any amount of WD-40 or visual inspection would not fix it.

So today I took the bar off the car cleaned up everything and applied a thin layer of Mobile1 Synthetic grease inside of the bearing block bushings, underneith the bearing blocks and on the splines. I am happy to report the creaking is gone!! I suspect the issue was "binding" in the bearing block bushings as there are no zerks to lube up the bushings.

With that said, there is also nothing in the instructions that say you need to lube this bar.

One thing I do find interesting, is that as you tighten the bearing blocks to the subframe w/ the 2 bolts..the physical ability to rotate the bar freely is decreased. The grease really helped, but still could not rotate freely in my hand without the added leverage of the machined arms themselves.

Right now the bar is quiet as a mouse and I love it!!

 

cpayne
I beleive the alignment of the bearing blocks is key. The blocks are slotted to allow some movement. When installing put one of the arms on the spline shaft and be sure you can move it by hand. As you get to full torque some resistance will be felt but as you put a few miles on the car they will loosen up. I have not used any lube nor is any required and mine is as quiet as stock. Also be sure that the main tube has clearance from body parts as some cars may differ.
Steve

 

Hey Steve...thanks for the tips. I think you are right about the bearing block alignment being key. As any fore/aft difference in the blocks could cause the binding/noise I was hearing.

Again so far so good and car actually feels even better in the curves then it did before

Cant wait to install my Koni Yellow Sports, TSW Springs, and H-Sport Camber Plates..think it will be SICK

Oh and take off my Studded 15" Snow Tires..heh

Cheers

cp

 

Check the threaded rod ends sockets. Many times those come deffective or the supplier throws in a couple of "cheap" ones - ask me how I know - and those are very noisy at low speed. I would try getting quality rod ends (i.e. teflon lined or so...) and try it again. Fun, fun

 

Well that lasted about 2 weeks...creaking is back ;( So wondering if I should try to add zerks to the stock bearing blocks and modify the bushings so grease can flow? If it is an alignment issue I sure cant seem to get them aligned perfectly to eliminate the creaking. Perhaps another option is to see if I can use a set of H-Sport 25.5mm brackets w/ the Zerks already installed???

 

cpayne
I have my car up on jackstands for the winter and just for fun I took off the drop links the other day to see how the resistance of the bar felt. It is very smooth now with very little resistance to move by hand. When first installed I had some resistance, but would still move by hand. By putting some miles on the car it has seated in nicely. If you are experiencing the bar getting pinched when you torque down the bearing blocks you may need to use some shim stock under one of the bearing blocks. Their is no adjustment for the block if your particular car has one mounting point higher than the other. I'm sure you would be able to find shim stock at a hardware store.
One other thing you should check is to be sure your bar is straight and not bent. Just lay a good straight edge on the bar for confirmation. Again, I use no lube, none should be required and it is as quite as stock.
Steve

 

so how much effort was used to move the bar itch? i could move mine with just one hand but i wouldn't call it effortless. i removed the bar to see if anything is rubbing but everything seems fine. i lubed the bushings in the bearing blocks and it still felt the same amount of effort. but the bar is still making the creaking noise. i had it for about 10k miles and it only started making the noise when i adjusted it stiffer 3k miles ago. i also checked the preload since it doesn't slide all the way through smoothly.

 

crazyaboutmini
Here is a couple of things that you can try to isolate the noise. Remove one of the drop links and go for a ride. If the noise is still there you know it is coming from the bearing blocks or rubbing on the frame some where. If the noise disappears you should look into the drop links or heim joints.
As far as how much effort is needed to move the bar, I can now move mine without the arm attached to the bar. Before it was seated in I needed the arm attached to move it but it did not take a lot of effort. If you need a lot of effort it is not aligned properly. Take your time and think it out to get your alignment right.
Steve

 

Make sure the shaft clamps are tight against the spacer bushing and are not cracked.

Make sure the swaybar endlinks are in good condition; what may appear to be a normal perfect endlink in your hand is not necessarily a good endlink in operation. If you are using stock endlinks I would change these. I just changed all four and eliminated a few glaring problems I would not have associated with endlinks - noise being one. One potential clue is if the noise is audible while driving striaght, but disappears when negotiating a turn - the twist in the bar takes up any slack.

But, removing th endlinks as was suggested above by The Itch is one way of isolating suspension noise from swaybar noise - swaybar meaning endlinks, bushiongs etc...the whole swaybar system.

 

will do the tests on my next day off next week. thanks guys

 

meb
I am curious as to what endlinks you used for a replacement?
Thanks, Steve

[quote=meb;2215390]. I just changed all four and eliminated a few glaring problems I would not have associated with endlinks - noise being one.

 

Steve,

I sold my Powergrid endlinks...but I probably should have retained the rear set since this bar is sure to wear the stockers out quickly. I have four new stock endlinks.

I am also convinced that the condition of the front endlinks will affect some tingly messages transfered to the steering wheel; these are attached to the strut and as such I feel the exert some influence on the feel of SAI - they do not alter its geometry. But then, I've had a cloudy reputation with endlinks and this is probably just another mindless rant


[quote=THE ITCH;2216759]meb
I am curious as to what endlinks you used for a replacement?
Thanks, Steve