I imagine I will get a bazillion answers... What do you think would be the best aftermarket speakers to go with the factory head unit?

I did not go HK.

 

Infinity Reference or Kappa series.

Only the best.

 

I agree with rednwhite
i have reference in my car

 

FRONT: Infinity 6002si COAXIAL 6 1/2" shallow mount.....no need to wire a separate crossover, and I left the stock 1"tweeter connected

 

Do you need a spacer to mount the Infinity's?

 

yes, for the front doors, you need the adapter rings.

you can mount tweeters and 6x9's woth no modifications tho.

 

Thanks! Any suggestions on the thickness, interior diameter & external diameter for the spacers? Thanks again!

 

I made 3/4 inch spacers and they were fine

 

one of the mini parts places sells a nice set.

i bought mine used, but i think you can buy them ay newministuff.com

 

This topic has been discussed many times in the past. While speaker models do keep changing over time one thing to keep in mind is that the stock head unit has limited power and the stock speakers are quite efficient.

Aftermarket speakers may not be so efficient and unless you add an amp for those speakers you may find that you cannot generate enough power from the stock head unit to make any improvement in sound.

Add to that a louder exhaust or intake noise, a rougher ride, lots of road noise or a lack of sound deadening and it might seem that those aftermarket speakers were hardly worth the effort to upgrade.

If you are interested in more bass then consider a powered subwoofer or an amp and separate subwoofer.

If you tend to play music rather loudly then consider a separate amp for the front speakers and power the stock rear speakers with your stock headunit.

Various front speakers (separates with crossover: 5.25 to 6.25") can be installed in the front doors. You can make custom spacers out of wood or similar materials so that the speaker can be closer to the built in speaker grills (which are hard to remove).

Bottomline is when changing front or rear speakers is to choose speakers that are very efficient and don't require much power to drive.

Adding sound deadening material is usually worth the effort. Think twice before adding that loud exhaust.

 

i went with Polks 5.25's coax.

2percooper's heard my setup with the basslink. here was his impression:



yep, so much for so little.

 

My vote:

Diamond Audio 300 series.

 

I work For a major car audio retailer and I am an assistant Sales and Install Manager i have worked on a lot of vehicles and delt with a lot of different customers and the number one thing that i hear is they either want it louder or more clear and in most peoples cases just adding a little bass helps out a system a whole lot ie An infinity basslink or basslinkII which has the ability to simply add a card which converts the basslinkII to a sub and 4 channel amp.

 

i dont know if i could justify paying that kind of money for a basslink when something like my 1030 reference or a new 1040 are about 100 bucks and add a decent amp for another 100 more, and you have the exact same thing for less!

 

I have to agree. the Polk 525's provide the crisp clear highs and mids and
i just let the Basslink take care of the rest. I can blast it pretty loud and
since the Polks are running flat EQ (hi slightly boosted on FM) from the
stock HU, it can handle a lot of signal without any sign of clipping.

forget the factory rear speakers...i just fade 1 bar to the rear to provide
signal for the Basslink. as far as I am concerned, i don't want to hear
the factory rear speakers at all.

rednwhitecooper-
Basslinks can be had online for very cheap if you want. i just bought
mine locally (convenience over ebay) and installed it myself.

 

if you price into perspective the basslink is only 299 retail probably cheaper online and for a descent sub amp combo your looking at 100 - 200 for a sub, min. 100 - 300 for amp, 100 - 200 for wire (power kit and rca's and possibly line level adapter),50 - 100 for enclosure (prefab),or custom built 35 - 200 ( maybe even more depending on materials and who builds it). Any time you do a seperate sub amp etup you should get more output and better clarity. I can tell you from experience i have seen customers $400+ on a setup not including labor and not been as happpy as some customers who bought basslinks and had them installed. I am in no way promoting the basslink as the end all sub solution but for the price it is a great deal. If you look at my car it doesnt have a basslink

 

Works for a major car audio retailer, is an install Mgr and ...


When are you moving to Jersey?

hs