Drivetrain Most Power Gain?
Most Power Gain?
I am thinking of going with either a larger top mount intercooler (Alta or GRS) or GIAC. Which would give me the most hp gain if I had to chose either doing intercooler of chip? thanks!
Mark
Mark
depends...are you on it a LOT (drive it really hard) or do you track your car? If so, maybe the IC. That seems to be where a big IC pays off. But for most driving conditions, I'd say the chip. The stock IC actually works pretty well. That's my $.02. That is, of course, unless under bonnet bling is important to you. Can't beat a big IC when you open the bonnet up for show.
ripley
ripley
Actually. I heard that all the aftermarket ic's right now aren't much better then the stock IC when it comes to the numbers.
I was going to buy one with my current setup but I was advised not to.....though it does look really nice
I was going to buy one with my current setup but I was advised not to.....though it does look really nice
Swapping intercoolers should not actually make more power. A more efficient intercooler will theoretically help prevent power loss from heat buildup under the hood. If you want tangible power & improved driveability, I'd suggest an ECU upgrade.
My 2 cents.
My 2 cents.
This is a good discussion, I am slowly approaching this fork same fork in the road! Living in Phoenix, wouldn't the larger IC be a bit more beneficial than someone who lived in a colder climate? I think the software would provide more tangible power (so to speak), but in a climate that reaches 110-120 degrees, would it not be something to get? Just throwing this out to get everyone's thoughts?
The GRS will improve power, as shown by Randy Webb's test: http://www.webbmotorsports.com/forum...opic.php?t=643
The GIAC has been demonstrated to produce power as well. Tough call. I think I'd go with the GIAC first, then add the GRS if called for by my climate (as in Phoenix).
The GIAC has been demonstrated to produce power as well. Tough call. I think I'd go with the GIAC first, then add the GRS if called for by my climate (as in Phoenix).
If you have 110-120* weather the larger intercooler should be a TOP priority on your mod list.
You would probly be better off with a water-air intercooler........
You would probly be better off with a water-air intercooler........
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Here are my two cents from somewhat thorough testing on the intercoolers.
Think of an STI. They've got a huge intercooler located near the back of the engine compartment. The reason for this is simple, the air flows through the scoop and then THROUGH the intercooler, being in the rear of the compartment means there is nothing under the intercooler to stop the airflow.
Now, with the mini, getting a bigger air-to-air intercooler is near pointless unless it's a front mount. Here is the reason; the air enters through the scoop and is forced down onto the intercooler. The problem is this; the engine is directly under the intercooler therefor the air entering the engine compartment cannot flow straight down through the intercooler, so it's squeezed elsewhere. Buy an intercooler temp monitor, place the probes on each side of the intercooler, one for inlet, and the other for the outlet. Jot down the numbers and note how long it takes for the temperature to drop. Do the same for a "BIG" air-to-air intercooler. The change is minimal.
If you'd like me to go into detail and give numbers feel free to PM me or give us a call.
Think of an STI. They've got a huge intercooler located near the back of the engine compartment. The reason for this is simple, the air flows through the scoop and then THROUGH the intercooler, being in the rear of the compartment means there is nothing under the intercooler to stop the airflow.
Now, with the mini, getting a bigger air-to-air intercooler is near pointless unless it's a front mount. Here is the reason; the air enters through the scoop and is forced down onto the intercooler. The problem is this; the engine is directly under the intercooler therefor the air entering the engine compartment cannot flow straight down through the intercooler, so it's squeezed elsewhere. Buy an intercooler temp monitor, place the probes on each side of the intercooler, one for inlet, and the other for the outlet. Jot down the numbers and note how long it takes for the temperature to drop. Do the same for a "BIG" air-to-air intercooler. The change is minimal.
If you'd like me to go into detail and give numbers feel free to PM me or give us a call.
Doesn't matter how big the intercooler is if they're all limited by the same amount of air that makes it through the little mail slot scoop.
I'm beginning to think that the MCS is rather like the Prescott processor that can only run at full speed for several minutes until overheating forces throttling. Heat forces timing retard and equals lower oxygen density, which reverses/cancels the effect of boost pressure.
Improving airflow, particularly when the car is not moving (heat rises so it becomes an interheater and the car feels abnormally slow in stop-and-go traffic) should be a top priority so I am going to try to mod a fan there. You wouldn't dream of passively cooling a 120w CPU so why passively cool an intercooler that can absorb many tens of thousands of BTUs?
I'm beginning to think that the MCS is rather like the Prescott processor that can only run at full speed for several minutes until overheating forces throttling. Heat forces timing retard and equals lower oxygen density, which reverses/cancels the effect of boost pressure.
Improving airflow, particularly when the car is not moving (heat rises so it becomes an interheater and the car feels abnormally slow in stop-and-go traffic) should be a top priority so I am going to try to mod a fan there. You wouldn't dream of passively cooling a 120w CPU so why passively cool an intercooler that can absorb many tens of thousands of BTUs?
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