When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi,
After weeks of excessive chatter when going from a stop and blaming it on a skill issue, my throw out bearing has seemingly exploded. So, I want to put a new clutch kit and flywheel in. Without looking in the bell housing yet, my suspicion is the flywheel went bad and stressed the throw out bearing and this is due to the fact I was making some extra power over stock on a not-so old flywheel (maybe old based on other things I have seen) at 92k miles, of which, I have only done the past 9k.
So, I have narrowed it down to 2 options for the clutch kit: the ecs one with the stage 2 southbend clutch and aluminum flywheel or the clutchmasters fx250 with the steel single mass. Any opinions on these? I dont plan to go oe as it is more expensive and I really dont want a dual mass. I would do the valeo kit, but it is OOS with no eta. Any opinions on other kits with single mass flywheels in the 1200-1400 range? Ive also heard the clutch masters aluminum flywheels arent so great which is why I would opt for the steel should I choose theirs. My end goal for the car eventually is either a jcw turbo or f21m with a mildish tune and ofc the supporting mods for that, a lot of which I have already installed.
Thanks in advance!
I stole the below video from another forum, and that's the exact noise my car made before the TOB fully gave out. Currently, the car cannot stop as whatever is broken prevents the clutch pedal from fully depressing.
I had the ClutchMasters steel flywheel with FX100 kit, and it handled my Prototype-R Stage 2 tune without drama. Since my car was a daily, and the wife occasionally drove it, I wanted as close to stock feel from the replacement clutch. Mission accomplished with the steel flywheel and FX100 kit. I also paired it with an MFactory mechanical LSD at the install. The car just hooked up and drove.
If your car is a daily, my recommendation would be to skip the puck style clutches. You'll hate life in ANY kind of stop-n-go traffic. Those clutches tend to be very "On / Off" in their engagement.
When you get in there, plan on replacing all the seals. Have a full set on hand. If the crank seal isn't leaking, and you don't disturb it, it should be fine to leave alone. The axel seals need to be replaced every time an axel is pulled. If you install an LSD, you'll also have to replace the gearbox input shaft seal.
You'll also want to have a new clutch release lever, pivot bearing, and guide bushing, Since you'll be dropping the subframe, also a good time to swap out the rear control arm bushings and sway bar bushings. I kept the OEM front sway bar, but replaced the bushings with SuperPro poly bushings.
I might be forgetting something, but this should get you pointed in the right direction.
I had the ClutchMasters steel flywheel with FX100 kit, and it handled my Prototype-R Stage 2 tune without drama. Since my car was a daily, and the wife occasionally drove it, I wanted as close to stock feel from the replacement clutch. Mission accomplished with the steel flywheel and FX100 kit. I also paired it with an MFactory mechanical LSD at the install. The car just hooked up and drove.
If your car is a daily, my recommendation would be to skip the puck style clutches. You'll hate life in ANY kind of stop-n-go traffic. Those clutches tend to be very "On / Off" in their engagement.
When you get in there, plan on replacing all the seals. Have a full set on hand. If the crank seal isn't leaking, and you don't disturb it, it should be fine to leave alone. The axel seals need to be replaced every time an axel is pulled. If you install an LSD, you'll also have to replace the gearbox input shaft seal.
You'll also want to have a new clutch release lever, pivot bearing, and guide bushing, Since you'll be dropping the subframe, also a good time to swap out the rear control arm bushings and sway bar bushings. I kept the OEM front sway bar, but replaced the bushings with SuperPro poly bushings.
I might be forgetting something, but this should get you pointed in the right direction.
So what brought me to the fx250 over the 100 is that their website says it is only good for bolt ons and non-fi upgrades. As it is currently, Im pushing 2-4psi over factory so that worried me. My car has no leaks other than a small leak from the water pump weep hole on sub zero temps. Gotta address that sooner than later, but I need to get the car up and running ASAP as dailying a bike sucks in rainy season and grocery shopping sucks.
I ran that clutch kit on a stage 2 tune from Lou running ~20-21 psi for roughly 80k miles, and that clutch never had so much as a hiccup. It felt just like stock, too. I was running a stock Cooper S N18 turbo.
I know what ClutchMasters claims on their website, but all of their products are well built and should be able to hold whatever you throw at it. I also was worried about running stage 2 on the FX100, but all those worries went out after the break in period was over.
Again, if you plan to daily the car, I would not get a puck clutch.
I ran that clutch kit on a stage 2 tune from Lou running ~20-21 psi for roughly 80k miles, and that clutch never had so much as a hiccup. It felt just like stock, too. I was running a stock Cooper S N18 turbo.
I know what ClutchMasters claims on their website, but all of their products are well built and should be able to hold whatever you throw at it. I also was worried about running stage 2 on the FX100, but all those worries went out after the break in period was over.
Again, if you plan to daily the car, I would not get a puck clutch.
From what I saw of the stage 2/fx250, its still a solid face non puck clutch. Its just a hybrid Kevlar surface. Im just mostly worried that the only all metal TOB I can find is the ps given one and it only works with their kits which apparently suck for daily (and are more than what I'd wanna spend)
I agree with @njaremka, I would go with the Clutchmasters FX250/Lightweight FW or the OS Giken GT clutch and flywheel...or stock.
Clutchmasters is pretty conservative on their holding power. I plan on grabbing this same set up for my R60 once my clutch goes out. The rest of them are pretty hit and miss if you search the various threads on the topic.
Maybe give them a call and ask if they can supply a stronger pressure plate with the FX100 kit. (if you still think you need more holding power)
You seem pretty experienced so Ill trust you. Won't mind saving the 100 or so bucks, too. Tearing it down on Sunday to see how it broke and what else I need on top of the kit.
You seem pretty experienced so Ill trust you. Won't mind saving the 100 or so bucks, too. Tearing it down on Sunday to see how it broke and what else I need on top of the kit.
While you are in there, be sure to tighten the Allen bolts behind the flywheel if they are loose, replace the Clutch Fork, Guidetube, and RMS.
I would skip out on the FM21 turbos, they are absolute junk, @MiniManAdam , I, and others have had success with the Ebay "Ko4" models (not the FM21), Mamba 4660, and the "GTX11" hybrid kits. IF you have more money to spend, I would go with a R300/R400 from RPMPower or a Airwerks SX K03.
Snag a tune from @Lou@Prototype-R when you are ready. He is a great tuner with a ton of insight, his customer service is also top notch and he can tune the N18 remotely.
While you are in there, be sure to tighten the Allen bolts behind the flywheel if they are loose, replace the Clutch Fork, Guidetube, and RMS.
I would skip out on the FM21 turbos, they are absolute junk, @MiniManAdam , I, and others have had success with the Ebay "Ko4" models (not the FM21), Mamba 4660, and the "GTX11" hybrid kits. IF you have more money to spend, I would go with a R300/R400 from RPMPower or a Airwerks SX K03.
Snag a tune from @Lou@Prototype-R when you are ready. He is a great tuner with a ton of insight, his customer service is also top notch and he can tune the N18 remotely.
The issue is, I dont plan to go too big with turbos. Even k04 would likely be bigger than what I want to do. Maybe I'll do a jcw turbo then. Is jmtc any good?
The issue is, I dont plan to go too big with turbos. Even k04 would likely be bigger than what I want to do. Maybe I'll do a jcw turbo then. Is jmtc any good?
Some people have good and some have bad from them, thats why I didnt end up going with them due to the cost. The JCW turbo would be a good option but if buying one new, I would definitely get the Airwerks SX EP6 (can be found for around $1000) instead as the price isnt any different if you look around. Its the same size but it has a higher flow rate.
Also, check out the GTX11 hybrid kits ($200), its only $200 and uses the stock turbo exhuast - its definitly an upgrade and will pair up nicely with a tune, but wont cause surging issues or other problems while you are still stock.
Some people have good and some have bad from them, thats why I didnt end up going with them due to the cost. The JCW turbo would be a good option but if buying one new, I would definitely get the Airwerks SX EP6 (can be found for around $1000) instead as the price isnt any different if you look around. Its the same size but it has a higher flow rate.
Also, check out the GTX11 hybrid kits ($200), its only $200 and uses the stock turbo exhuast - its definitly an upgrade and will pair up nicely with a tune, but wont cause surging issues or other problems while you are still stock.
It will fit either as it replaces the compressor housing and the CHRA. If you have a JCW turbo already Im not sure youll see enough of a difference as the blade sizes are about the same, it may spin up faster and build boost sooner but it wouldnt be worth the effort. If you have a stock "S" turbo, its a noticeable gain and it will run until redline
It will fit either as it replaces the compressor housing and the CHRA. If you have a JCW turbo already Im not sure youll see enough of a difference as the blade sizes are about the same, it may spin up faster and build boost sooner but it wouldnt be worth the effort. If you have a stock "S" turbo, its a noticeable gain and it will run until redline
Any idea how to get the LCI bumper off? There seems to be 2 or 3 screws holding it on to the lower bumper bar that only LCIs have, but the bumper lip obstructs access to them so Im at a bit of an impasse and it's driving me insane.
Any idea how to get the LCI bumper off? There seems to be 2 or 3 screws holding it on to the lower bumper bar that only LCIs have, but the bumper lip obstructs access to them so Im at a bit of an impasse and it's driving me insane.
The wheel arch trim pops off to expose the other bolts, grab the bottom corner and pull out and away and the 3 fingers that slip into the bumper will pop off. Dont pull out more than a few inches or you risk breaking the trim clips.
I like using the harbor frieght meme tool kit for this stuff, using the ratchet with bits - its very low profile so you can easily get into these areas.
The wheel arch trim pops off to expose the pther bolts, grab the bottom corner and pull out and away and the 3 fingers that slip into the bumper will pop off. Dont pull out more than a few inches or you risk breaking the trim clips.
I like using the harbor frieght meme tool kit for this stuff, using the ratchet with bits - its very low profile so you can easily get into these areas.
The issue is the 3 screws under the secondary bumper bar wont let the bumper move and the bottom lip/trim on the bumper is too far forward to access the screws. Ive tried pushing the lip back to access them to no luck and the lip goes too far back to try and push it forward to access them.
Yes, the grill, the 4 torx t25 screws (2 behind fender arches 2 behind grill), the headlights, and the plastic clips are all removed. The only things left are the screws into the LCIs lower bumper bar of which I cannot get proper access to.
OK, I just went and checked the newTIS information, and they want you to remove the lower grill and trim first:
Maybe that's what is getting you hung up. I have to admit, though, all the times I had my front bumper off, I never removed that part first. Maybe when putting it back together, you skip those screws for next time?
OK, I just went and checked the newTIS information, and they want you to remove the lower grill and trim first:
Maybe that's what is getting you hung up. I have to admit, though, all the times I had my front bumper off, I never removed that part first. Maybe when putting it back together, you skip those screws for next time?
Hmm, I'll look into that, but I dont see how removing that will get me to the downward facing screws.
Interesting... I honestly don't remember there being screws that deep in there. I only remember screws and clips visible in that location - nothing hidden under the lip like that. If I were in your position, and they were preventing me from removing the bumper, I'd be tempted to cut them out, and forget them when putting everything back together.
Interesting... I honestly don't remember there being screws that deep in there. I only remember screws and clips visible in that location - nothing hidden under the lip like that. If I were in your position, and they were preventing me from removing the bumper, I'd be tempted to cut them out, and forget them when putting everything back together.
Yeah, there's next to nothing out there that discusses their existence out there, even on lci specific posts/videos. It's just so frustrating because this should be the easiest step of the process and Ive been hung up on it for so long.
