R50/53 Oil pressure problem
Oil pressure problem
Evening all,
Previously had a 2013 R56 sold years ago in college and now that I have some funny money the Mrs let me pick up a 2005 R53 manual with about 86k. I did alright took car to the mechanic to get an idea of what kind of work she needed as it was an auction pick up.
The shop is a german specialty shop here in Orlando FL I used for my previous Mini. They recommended 6k in work which I politely declined. I could do 90% myself and felt the list the provided gave a good jumping off point. I paid them for inspection and asked them to complete oil cooler and to do oil change to ensure it held oil, and it would be good to go motor wise. This took place in mid/late January.
Over the past 8-12 weeks the mini has maybe gone 150 miles tops as its been almost completely garage kept while I worked. So dropped subframe replaced bushings on wish bone. Inner and outer ball joints, axles, axle seals, the brake reservoir, power steering pump, fan, lines and also clutch slave cylinder. After doing all this I finished with brakes all around and sent to Firestone for tires. Still need to replace window parts as they are stuck down. First time I took Mrs out to dinner and let the mini get hot the oil light came on. As long as engine revved it would go out but when very hot and at idle the oil light came on. Everytime I checked oil it was clearly full so thought to myself each time its a sending unit or idle problem and brought it home. Finally after poking around here I replaced the oil pressure sending unit and thought I was a genius getting it fixed. Again gets hot, and at idle the oil red light comes on.
So did a bunch of research, I am thinking its getting pressure, but idle is a hair low making the sending unit cry mercy. I was prepared to do a mechanical gauge and run it to the cabin when I came across a thread here about changing the oil filter in case its clogged. So I decided to do a full oil change and be sure it was not burning oil and slightly low. When I go to drain the oil the plug absolutely rounds over, tried hammering on box wrench, vise grips, cut a slot in it for a flat head, tried pneumatic hammer to try and get it turning only thing that worked was a Quinn bolt extractor from Harbor Freight. As I went through this whole fight I thought holy **** how could this have been off a month and half ago...but I guess they could have extractor like mod mini...well when the plug came loose my entire oil catch pan filled and half of another.
All said and done the Mini had almost 9 quarts of oil in it that was jet black...the shop appears to have changed the filter but completely forgot to drain the oil and then added 4.5 quarts these things require. Which also explains the stuck on drain plug.
My question for all the experts here, what would you do? How can I hold them responsible and how much damage should I be thinking occured? Is there something I should just replace even if it works? I appreciate anyone who contributes or reads my novel 😂
Cheers,
Collin
Previously had a 2013 R56 sold years ago in college and now that I have some funny money the Mrs let me pick up a 2005 R53 manual with about 86k. I did alright took car to the mechanic to get an idea of what kind of work she needed as it was an auction pick up.
The shop is a german specialty shop here in Orlando FL I used for my previous Mini. They recommended 6k in work which I politely declined. I could do 90% myself and felt the list the provided gave a good jumping off point. I paid them for inspection and asked them to complete oil cooler and to do oil change to ensure it held oil, and it would be good to go motor wise. This took place in mid/late January.
Over the past 8-12 weeks the mini has maybe gone 150 miles tops as its been almost completely garage kept while I worked. So dropped subframe replaced bushings on wish bone. Inner and outer ball joints, axles, axle seals, the brake reservoir, power steering pump, fan, lines and also clutch slave cylinder. After doing all this I finished with brakes all around and sent to Firestone for tires. Still need to replace window parts as they are stuck down. First time I took Mrs out to dinner and let the mini get hot the oil light came on. As long as engine revved it would go out but when very hot and at idle the oil light came on. Everytime I checked oil it was clearly full so thought to myself each time its a sending unit or idle problem and brought it home. Finally after poking around here I replaced the oil pressure sending unit and thought I was a genius getting it fixed. Again gets hot, and at idle the oil red light comes on.
So did a bunch of research, I am thinking its getting pressure, but idle is a hair low making the sending unit cry mercy. I was prepared to do a mechanical gauge and run it to the cabin when I came across a thread here about changing the oil filter in case its clogged. So I decided to do a full oil change and be sure it was not burning oil and slightly low. When I go to drain the oil the plug absolutely rounds over, tried hammering on box wrench, vise grips, cut a slot in it for a flat head, tried pneumatic hammer to try and get it turning only thing that worked was a Quinn bolt extractor from Harbor Freight. As I went through this whole fight I thought holy **** how could this have been off a month and half ago...but I guess they could have extractor like mod mini...well when the plug came loose my entire oil catch pan filled and half of another.
All said and done the Mini had almost 9 quarts of oil in it that was jet black...the shop appears to have changed the filter but completely forgot to drain the oil and then added 4.5 quarts these things require. Which also explains the stuck on drain plug.
My question for all the experts here, what would you do? How can I hold them responsible and how much damage should I be thinking occured? Is there something I should just replace even if it works? I appreciate anyone who contributes or reads my novel 😂
Cheers,
Collin
I think I'd start by contacting the shop and explaining the situation to see what their explanation is. If they won't assume responsibility and agree to correct any issues that may arise due to foaming oil, etc. you may need to contact a lawyer to see what your options are. If the shop is reutable they should stand by their work and have insurance to cover errors that always occur at some point.
I would go there in person, explain what you've experienced and see what they got to say.
Most likely they will say it's not on them or "you should have let us do all the work in order to get warranty". If so, just walk away and let it go for your own mental sake.
I have been there before twice with a BMW dealer and an E90. Last time they changed an ignition coil and sparkplug and, in my opinion they dropped something into the block while doing so. Got a phonecall stating "there are writing marks on your block, who did that?" Don't know you maintained it the last 6 year. "Yea we don't do that but the engine makes weird sound, looked with a boroscope and found a piece of metral is stamped into the head".
Long story short; the engine was toast and they washed their hands in innocence and wanted like 10k to repair it. I fought them hard but you cannot prove anything.
But I still cherish that experience as it got me into my first Mini and it's the reason I learned to do mechanical work myself.
Most likely they will say it's not on them or "you should have let us do all the work in order to get warranty". If so, just walk away and let it go for your own mental sake.
I have been there before twice with a BMW dealer and an E90. Last time they changed an ignition coil and sparkplug and, in my opinion they dropped something into the block while doing so. Got a phonecall stating "there are writing marks on your block, who did that?" Don't know you maintained it the last 6 year. "Yea we don't do that but the engine makes weird sound, looked with a boroscope and found a piece of metral is stamped into the head".
Long story short; the engine was toast and they washed their hands in innocence and wanted like 10k to repair it. I fought them hard but you cannot prove anything.
But I still cherish that experience as it got me into my first Mini and it's the reason I learned to do mechanical work myself.
IMO - the shop did a halfa** job and probably will not admit to it.
I read that they replaced the oil filter. When you performed an oil and filter change, You may want to check to see if the little plastic, spring loaded plunger is broken in the bottom of the oil filter housing.. If it is broken; that maybe the cause for low oil pressure at low rpms. It is replaceable. (And hopefully not worn main bearings).
I would still try to hold the shop accountable by relaying the issues it has caused you.
notwithstanding:
I had lived in Orlando for over 25 years. 10 years of Mini ownership - I'd brought my Mini to an idie BMW / German garage to have my starter replaced in my 2004 R53 which turned out to be a horror story (I won't get into)...
I won't name names but by chance was this indie garage located in the Winter Park/College Park area?
I read that they replaced the oil filter. When you performed an oil and filter change, You may want to check to see if the little plastic, spring loaded plunger is broken in the bottom of the oil filter housing.. If it is broken; that maybe the cause for low oil pressure at low rpms. It is replaceable. (And hopefully not worn main bearings).
I would still try to hold the shop accountable by relaying the issues it has caused you.
notwithstanding:
I had lived in Orlando for over 25 years. 10 years of Mini ownership - I'd brought my Mini to an idie BMW / German garage to have my starter replaced in my 2004 R53 which turned out to be a horror story (I won't get into)...
I won't name names but by chance was this indie garage located in the Winter Park/College Park area?
IMO - the shop did a halfa** job and probably will not admit to it.
I read that they replaced the oil filter. When you performed an oil and filter change, You may want to check to see if the little plastic, spring loaded plunger is broken in the bottom of the oil filter housing.. If it is broken; that maybe the cause for low oil pressure at low rpms. It is replaceable. (And hopefully not worn main bearings).
I would still try to hold the shop accountable by relaying the issues it has caused you.
notwithstanding:
I had lived in Orlando for over 25 years. 10 years of Mini ownership - I'd brought my Mini to an idie BMW / German garage to have my starter replaced in my 2004 R53 which turned out to be a horror story (I won't get into)...
I won't name names but by chance was this indie garage located in the Winter Park/College Park area?
I read that they replaced the oil filter. When you performed an oil and filter change, You may want to check to see if the little plastic, spring loaded plunger is broken in the bottom of the oil filter housing.. If it is broken; that maybe the cause for low oil pressure at low rpms. It is replaceable. (And hopefully not worn main bearings).
I would still try to hold the shop accountable by relaying the issues it has caused you.
notwithstanding:
I had lived in Orlando for over 25 years. 10 years of Mini ownership - I'd brought my Mini to an idie BMW / German garage to have my starter replaced in my 2004 R53 which turned out to be a horror story (I won't get into)...
I won't name names but by chance was this indie garage located in the Winter Park/College Park area?
Thanks all for sumrecommendations...i got it for 2-3k not much I can do all though I invested tons into it. The shop is one in the Winter Park Casselberry area...I generally do like them and everyone makes mistakes but dang.
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If the motor is indeed cooked. Allmagauto in Tampa might have one at a price that works for you. Did you try a new filter and 4 quarts of oil? Yes the drain back is replaceable / I think allmagauto has that too
Yikes, let us know what they say.
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Not trying to sound like a jerk as I'm just curious - you said you checked the oil and it was "clearly full." Did it not show overfilled on the dipstick? Again, genuinely curious for my own knowledge, as I'm planning to do my first Mod Mini-style "out the top" oil change soon.
Hopefully no damage to your engine and definitely let us know what the shop says.
Hopefully no damage to your engine and definitely let us know what the shop says.
Curious as well...
With that amount of oil in the crank case - I would imagine blowing seals all over the engine due to overwhelming pressure.... (?)...
Any major oil leaks so far?
With that amount of oil in the crank case - I would imagine blowing seals all over the engine due to overwhelming pressure.... (?)...
Any major oil leaks so far?
I checked dipstick and thought that was full level. Now I know how to read the less than typical dipstick our cars have. First r53. But I called them they apologized and basically asked what I wanted which not really sure what I want... I have been driving it to work all week 50ish miles round trip and no issues so far. So hopefully everything is fine. Still frustrating.
Also the oil pressure light went away. Go figure.
Also the oil pressure light went away. Go figure.
Maybe ask them for a free oil change as compensation?
(sorry...for that. I'm sarcastic by nature).
But sounds as if at this point; your Mini hasn't suffered anything catastrophic as best we can tell.(?).
Do check on the condition of that back plunger though, when you get a chance. Low oil pressure is still a bit concerning.
Anxious to hear the epilogue.
(sorry...for that. I'm sarcastic by nature).
But sounds as if at this point; your Mini hasn't suffered anything catastrophic as best we can tell.(?).
Do check on the condition of that back plunger though, when you get a chance. Low oil pressure is still a bit concerning.
Anxious to hear the epilogue.
Adendum:
If you can manage to get an oil pressure gauge on there to get an accurate reading - My 2004 R53 runs about 25psi warmed up and driving @3k rpms (warm weather: spring - fall). At idle all year-round; about 8-10 psi.
The Bentley shows 6psi at idle for an R53.
If you can manage to get an oil pressure gauge on there to get an accurate reading - My 2004 R53 runs about 25psi warmed up and driving @3k rpms (warm weather: spring - fall). At idle all year-round; about 8-10 psi.
The Bentley shows 6psi at idle for an R53.
So, about that plastic drain back valve. Some have felt it gets broken if you don’t put oil on the end of the filter that makes contact. And don’t use either speed or force. I have 185k, new since 11 miles. Dealer changed the oil last in 2005. Mine is ok. Look at it / use a phone camera to see condition.
an older convo here. A good read
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r50-r53-hatch-talk-2002-2006/350695-oil-drain-back-plunger-2.html
an older convo here. A good read
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r50-r53-hatch-talk-2002-2006/350695-oil-drain-back-plunger-2.html
Last edited by noodlesandsam; Apr 8, 2026 at 05:23 PM.
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