My daughter has a 2013 Mini Cooper S model and it has the temp light coming on. She's off at college- doing student teaching- and needs to drive daily. I'm 3 hrs away and I have to work the rest of the week myself.

I have maintained the car for her when she visits home during holidays and summers. I've done oil changes and checked all fluids, done brake pads etc. since she bought the car used 2 years ago. It's got about 110k miles on it. I have enough sense to know that no one can tell me what is wrong over the internet, but what I'm asking for is for someone who 'knows' these cars to give some intel.

The coolant light started coming on yesterday and she called me. I had her check the reservoir and it was low- I had her buy the correct rated coolant at autozone and pour in the reservoir. That got her back to her apartment without it overheating again. I had her check it this morning, and top off the reservoir again. She drove it about 20 miles to work today, and it seems to NOT be still overheating. She's supposed to check the coolant level and report to me before going back to her apartment this evening.

She says its not leaking out anywhere she can tell. Neither her nor myself can easily take it to a mini dealership, nor likely afford to do that. If she burns up this engine, it's likely the end of that car.

If she can get home this weekend with it, then I can try to determine what's going on. I'm a capable, but old school type mechanic and generally do my own service and repairs- mostly Toyota, Nissan, and Chevrolet. I've built a number of engines in the past, and an knowledgeable in general I just don't know the ins and outs of the mini. I know I checked the coolant level maybe 3 months ago when she was home and it seemed fine.

Can anyone familiar with this model of minis tell me what I should be looking at first assuming she gets it home to where I'm at? I like the little car- its a blast to drive, but I've been living under the sword of Damocles since she bought it fearing a major problem with it that I'll have to help deal with. I tried to convince her not to buy it, but she was dead set on buying one.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

I drove to where she was later that night- assessed that it was in fact leaking at/around the overflow hose connection to the coolant recovery tank. Was able to keep pouring coolant in the tank every 50 miles or so and drive it home (luckily, she had just finished up school and is on spring break now). So, I can't tell for sure but I think the recovery tank nipple where the overflow hose connects is cracked. I've ordered a new tank, and the hose. Will report back if that fixes it once I get the parts on the car.

 

Nice work and good luck!

 

Thanks to anyone looking at my post.

What else should I be looking at/replace while I'm doing that recovery tank replacement? Thermostat? water pump/s? hoses? which ones?

I'm gonna put that tank on it when I get it, then check it over good, and I will have to send her off again in it- 3 hrs away from me.

 

There is a plastic “T” in the line that connects to the bottom of the reservoir. One side goes to the thermostat, the other to the turbo. The “T” gets yanked on when you move the reservoir out of the way to change the oil filter. Check it for integrity.

 

Thanks- good suggestion- I will check that 'TEE'.

I've actually been concerned about stretching on that hose before when bending/manipulating that tank out of the way to change the oil filter. It's definitely a non-ideal situation.

I'm actually looking into getting a real gauge or diagnostic port gauge unit so temps can be monitored. Nothing like getting a call that the daughter's car is overheating- when she is far away and depending on it.

 

Well, I had ordered the small overflow hose, and the new coolant reservoir. I had a work trip this week- parts came Friday. I just got back yesterday and had time to change it out today.

But, I discovered that the 'T' down under the tank that a previous poster had mentioned is indeed leaking- but only when there is pressure on it (like when you stretch it to move the reservoir aside to change the oil).

So, now to order that fricken 'T' piece and wait on it. I had looked at it last week, but had not put sufficient pressure on it to leak I guess. It actually looks like the 'T' is cracked. Bad, Bad, Bad design to have to stretch/put pressure on those hoses like that to change the oil.

Pretty sure doing that is exactly what caused the tank nipple to crack, and also this hose 'T' to fail.
The saga continues. Had to send the daughter back to college in my car.

 

That plastic T in the coolant line broke on my old R56S (RIP). There are aftermarket hoses that have a metal T instead, look up the hose part number on realoem.com and do a search for the part number.

two options for a real time temp display:
1) get an OBD2 to bluetooth adapter and install the Torque app (or similar) on your phone, you can display any information that's available via OBD2.
2) Cravenspeed has a nifty gauge holder and adapters for water temp, oil pressure, etc. I had this on my old R56S and added it to my GP2 as well.

 

Yep, its here. Common fix and you can just so the T or do the whole line with the upgraded metal T.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hange-oil.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...voir-hose.html

 

Thanks ECS- I am going to order that hose assembly with the upgraded metal 'T'.

Do I need anything else to replace that hose, or special knowledge to deal with that banjo fitting, or is it straightforward?

 

Welcome,

Pretty much straight forward, i would get a longer rachet and stubby if you dont already have one to help reach places. Banjos have a crush on the top and bottom that should be replaced.

 

ECS, I'm expecting delivery today- does the new hose assembly from ECS come with new crush washers for the banjo fitting?

 

Hello,

Thats great on the delivery
.
They dont come with them on their own. They match the oem aka genuine MINI. https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2013-...Cooling/Hoses/

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...53#11539845352

You can get a crush washer local in a pinch 14 X 18 X 1.5 mm is the size and needs to be copper. Local Hardware store or fastnel/ or granger might have them if you did not order.


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...119963201~oem/ x 2 for each banjo
or https://www.ecstuning.com/b-elring-p...7119963201~fa/ x 2 for each banjo

Thanks
Mike

 

Got the new hose assembly on it- took.. a while.
The access to that rear hose connection from the 'T' is miserable as hell. But, I got it done and back together. So far so good- no leaks.

Thanks to everyone who replied here.

 

Yep... T-fitting go me last night on my way home from work. SO most certainly check that and or replace it with the one that has a metal t-fitting. I was lucky enough to be a mile or so from an auto parts store. I replaced the plastic t-fitting with an aftermarket metal one. Just matched up the hose sizes and cut off the plastic bands on the hoses. Used good ol' metal hose clamps to secure things.

The cooling line from the water pump to the thermostat housing is plastic, the thermostat housing is plastic, pretty much all of the connectors in the cooling system are plastic. SO after my little escapades last night, I went onto ECS's website and added to my cart, all the metal parts I could find to replace all the plastic ones. I will never understand the obsession with plastic in hot locations that manufactures have.