I have had my 2008 R56 mini tuned for years. Also have a Milltek high flow cat and a jspacer on the downstream O2 (among other mods) . When it comes time for emission in MD I typically clear any codes, complete a full drive cycle (idle, targeted speeds/rpm and sleep as outlined below) then go to emissions before any new codes are thrown. This time when my O2 and Evap tests were not ready - after several drive cycles and 200+ regular miles... AND NO Codes. NEED SOME IDEAS on how to address. This is what I did so far.

1. Went to tuner and had it reset to stock tune.
2. Bought a new battery (mine was 6 years old, at end of life cycle and wanted to elimated weak or intermittent connection when ECU trying to store data when off)
3. Drove again for 200 miles and did readiness cycle driving x2 - still showing O2 and Evap not ready

I have heard that a bad upsteam sensor might not throw a code and/or the fuel filter seal (18 years old) might have a minor leak that won't throw evap code but won't let it reset. Both seem like real longshots. ANY OTHER IDEAS?

 

1. Cold Start & Idle: Start the engine and let it idle for 2 to 3 minutes with all accessories (A/C, headlights, defroster) off. This allows the O2 sensor heaters and other initial systems to be tested.
2. City Driving (Low Speed): Accelerate gently and drive at a steady speed of 20-30 mph for about 3 minutes and 15 seconds. Avoid heavy acceleration or braking.
3. Highway Driving (Steady Speed): Accelerate to and maintain a steady speed between 40-60 mph for about 15 minutes. Using cruise control on a safe, open stretch of road can help maintain a consistent throttle position, which is crucial for the catalyst monitor test.
4. Deceleration (Coasting): Without using the brakes, release the accelerator pedal and coast down to about 20 mph. Repeat this step a few times.
5. Stop & Idle: Bring the vehicle to a complete stop and let it idle for at least 2 minutes. Do not roll through stops.
6. Engine Off/Door Open: Turn the car off, open the driver's door, and close it. Waiting a few minutes allows the car's computer to fully power down and "finalize" the drive cycle data.

 

Thanks for posting the solution. How did you learn about the procedure?

 

Typical procedure for modern vehicles. Also note that the evap cycle requires an abient temperature above some value. (can't remember what it is) If the air temperature is too cold, the evap cycle won't run.

Who is your tuner? Lou at PrototypeR can tune out the emissions checks so that they always read as "Ready."

 

Maybe Maybe not - that is the readiness cycle I have been trying I found using (gulp) ChatGbt So far it has not worked. Tried it again yesterday but outdoor temps here are near freezing.

Nik - I use Frank Smith at Tune Tech here in Maryland - https://tuningtechfs.com/ He does a great tune and has a better rate than for what he charges for high end performance cars - for us humble mini mod' ers.

I will check into the Evap temp as we have had a unusually consistant cold spell here for the last month. Happy New Year all.