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R56 Rattle on rear driver side

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Old Jan 20, 2025 | 01:50 PM
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Rattle on rear driver side

Hi, I have a rattle on rear drivers side, 2009 base. It occurs on the slightest of bumps. I read a lot of the threads here on rattles and eliminated the following below.
Luckily I can reproduce when car is parked and I press the rear down repeatedly- I need to back it up on ramps and get some help pushing the rear while I'm underneath but still may hard to isolate.
The noise seems to transmit through the car body on left side of rear storage area. Based on below, I'm thinking maybe sway bar links? I tried to check these but I did it with one side jacked which puts lots of pressure on swaybar.
Also read something about the shock top bushing or mount.

Thanks

Replaced shocks myself a year ago, this was before I noticed rattle, I don't think rattle occurred following this but not sure.
Replaced rear swaybar bushings.
Retorqued all rear shock fasteners in case something loose.
Rear license plate loose, fixed stripped body nut.
Noticed a plastic panel that may rub rear control arm, tied back with string but no change.
Noise also occurs when braking so not loose pads.
Checked spare, exhaust for loose or worn parts.
Opened hatch and pushed seats forward - no change.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2025 | 03:59 PM
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Checked my shock order and I did replace the rear shock mounts but perhaps I did not install correctly on one side.

I put the car on ramps and checked for play in the various parts but found none.
I can't really hear the noise outside/under the car, only in the inside so it seems to be something with the upper shock mount since that is mostly contained inside the car.
Will remove shock to take a look.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2025 | 08:38 AM
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You might want to get a mechanic's stethoscope (under $10 for the cheap but adequate Harbor Freight model) and have someone else push - poke the rear of the car. I think it's likely that you're right about the shock mount being a likely culprit though - especially if it was a no-name part (which can be notorious for poor / inadequate design).
 
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Old Jan 21, 2025 | 09:25 AM
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It is notoriously difficult to diagnose rattles and clunks over the internet, mostly because we can't hear what you are describing or tell where the noises might be coming from. My suggestion would be to find a friend that can ride along with you and try and help where the sound might actually be coming from, and get a second opinion on how to describe it.

For a "rattle" in the back, I would check panels and trim for any that might be loose or missing a clip. If its a "clunk" that only happens when traversing a bump or corner, I would check sway bar end links.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2025 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by njaremka
It is notoriously difficult to diagnose rattles and clunks over the internet, mostly because we can't hear what you are describing or tell where the noises might be coming from. My suggestion would be to find a friend that can ride along with you and try and help where the sound might actually be coming from, and get a second opinion on how to describe it.

For a "rattle" in the back, I would check panels and trim for any that might be loose or missing a clip. If its a "clunk" that only happens when traversing a bump or corner, I would check sway bar end links.
Thanks, but I think I can repro by pushing down on bumper - sounds more like a clunk vs rattle when driving but that may be because its a slower movement.

If the shock top nut was not tightened enough there would be play in the bushings, correct? Although it seems like those bushings compress over time anyhow so it seems some play would be inevitable.
Edit - I thought about this some more and actually the top washer is tightening down on the sleeve, not directly on the bushings. So if top nut loose there is more likely a metal to metal rattle whereas the loose bushings would be less noticeable.

Very easy to remove shock so will check. End links cheap and easy to replace also.

Read some more threads on this and could be hatch bump stops (I adjusted them a bit) or loose hatch latch but since I hear the noise with hatch open its unlikely.
 

Last edited by alexh1; Jan 21, 2025 at 10:59 AM.
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Old Jan 21, 2025 | 10:58 AM
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The rear shock mount has a metal sleeve inside the bushing that gets torqued between the damper shaft and the top nut / washer. If its loose, you might get some clunking. It would also be possible that the lower shock mount bolt isn't tightened all the way in, and the shock is moving against the lower control arm. It would be easy to check both of those when removing the shock.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2025 | 11:31 AM
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Any chance the sound coming from inside the cabin? If so, the rear seat backs hinge points have a plastic sleeve that is prone to braking. When broken, its metal to metal contact and can get loud on bumps

To test, open the hatch, have the seat back upright and start shaking them. You should be able to replicate the clunks.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2025 | 08:10 AM
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Ha! I went through the same exact things and replaced the same exact items.

Mine turned out to be the sway bar end links and I’ll warn you that the aftermarket ones didn’t have a way to hold the studs while I tightened the nuts. PITA. Fixed the noise.

However, a rattle has returned and this time I think it is in the rear sunroof frame. It is hard to identify these things. I have a six way electronic stethoscope that is very useful but complicated to set up.

Good luck but please please please, tell us your solution when you find it.
 
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