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Navigation & AudioAudio upgrades, bluetooth, and navigation discussions surrounding the Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.
Hi all - on my bucket list for 2025 will be a stereo upgrade. I believe I will get an Android Head unit, speakers and amp. I have a specific question on speakers -
I believe I will go the passive route and am interested in what speakers people have used and been happy with - specifically 3 way components.
All the 3 way component sets I have seen have 6.5 ish woofers. For those of you that have gone this route - what brand/model have you put in and have you been happy.
From Crutchfield - they advertise Alpine R2-S653 that will fit ( so assume the width accommodates our 5.5 inch opening in the doors / 3.125 inch depth ). However the crossovers look huge - so if anyone has put these in - where did you place them ? As well as happy with the sound.
Focal has a 3 way component set that looks good - Focal 165AS3, but has a very slightly larger mounting diameter ( as stated 5.51 inches - but take that with a grain of salt ). I'd think a little massaging would get them to work - but just checking if anyone has experience
Or are there any other component systems that people like. I am trying to go with 3 way components to get the mid, since our doors are designed for it.
I tried to reply to your message, but apparently you've exceeded your replies quota!
So, for that reason, I'll answer here.
I never got around to purchasing the Focal 3 way speakers. Once I had fitted the Pioneer TS-WX70DA active sub, the upgrade went on the 'back burner'.
I still intend to upgrade the front speakers, I have done some preliminary research, and I think they will fit fine.
May take a little finessing, but nothing too daunting.
When I upgraded the door speakers in my Clubman, I measured the following:
Lower Door Woofer: 5.5" opening / 2.75" max depth
Mid Door Speaker: 3.5" opening / 2-2.25" max depth
For the lower door woofer, the max depth is dictated by the window when lowered. For the mid door speaker, the max depth is dictated by the door panel. Inside the mid door speaker hole is molded plastic that will interfere with the speaker magnet if the magnet is too large in diameter.
Also, keep in mind the impedance of the HK speakers is 2ohm. So if you go with a 4ohm speaker, check the sensitivity to make sure it is on the higher side. Otherwise, you'll lose too much volume with the switch to 4ohm speakers.
When I upgraded the door speakers in my Clubman, I measured the following:
Lower Door Woofer: 5.5" opening / 2.75" max depth
Mid Door Speaker: 3.5" opening / 2-2.25" max depth
For the lower door woofer, the max depth is dictated by the window when lowered. For the mid door speaker, the max depth is dictated by the door panel. Inside the mid door speaker hole is molded plastic that will interfere with the speaker magnet if the magnet is too large in diameter.
Also, keep in mind the impedance of the HK speakers is 2ohm. So if you go with a 4ohm speaker, check the sensitivity to make sure it is on the higher side. Otherwise, you'll lose too much volume with the switch to 4ohm speakers.
I've learned the hard way that speakers stated measurements can be off enough to create big problems .. hence the ask of what brands and models have people used..
For impedance- if I am going this far, I am most likely adding an amp. If cost was not an issue, id consider a match 8 chsnnel dsp !
When fitting additional speakers, don't worry too much about physical size.
I was told I could only fit 5 1/4 inch speakers in the front doors of my R50.
I quite easily fitted 6 1/2 inch speakers, by making my own spacer rings. The Focals I fitted had large rear magnets, too. Not a problem.
Yes, you need to be careful about impedance matching, if using the standard H/K amp. I'd be using an aftermarket amp anyway, if it were me.
One of the members here put in a DSP that's about 1/4 the cost of the HK amp. That's the route I'm thinking for my R57, since my HK is dead. Been getting by with a BT speaker between the seats for now.
One of the members here put in a DSP that's about 1/4 the cost of the HK amp. That's the route I'm thinking for my R57, since my HK is dead. Been getting by with a BT speaker between the seats for now.
LOL - I have an UE Boombox I use now The digital display on my OEM head unit is non existant after 3 minutes.
I believe this is the amp you are referring ( you can find occasional deals via ebay )
Will have more info later but for now, I've confirmed the the HK amp can be removed and the JBL DSP 4086 can be wired in-place of it to provide amplification for the speakers. I haven't check codes yet to see if it throws a code doing so.
The 8835 RCA outputs are low voltage, like 500mv, too low for the JBL to match stock volume level, even with the gain turned all the way up which causes a slight hiss in the system.
To get good sound it requires a line driver to boost the RCA voltage or to use high-level input for the amp.
Once I switched to high-level input I was able to turn the gains down significantly and get a lot more volume out of the system, at least as much raw volume as stock with flat head unit eq and flat amp eq.
It has been known to run very hot, and needs to be tuned. It does fit in the factory amp location too. Might want to run a bigger amp gauge wire direct to the battery vs using the OEM thinner gauge.
I am looking for simple and easy - hence the passive set up
Seconded on not worrying too much about the size. I just got a 2006 S and already brought it to my stereo guy (who has done a lot of custom work for me on other cars) - the ring method will work fine for 6.5” woofers in the doors. My humble suggestion on the tweeters is not to use the stock location but instead use ones that come with a surface mount housing and put on top of the dash. This will help move the soundstage out in front of you vs. the headphone effect. I haven’t set the plan in motion yet but I plan on doing this with 2-ways to keep it simple but am going to go active not passive- makes a big difference in tunability and hence sound quality. Another brand to consider is Morel - I’ve had very good results and leaning toward their Hybrid 2-way for this car, along with a powered Audison sub (also for ease and compactness) I don’t have the link handy but both should be easy to find if you want to have a look. Both Audison and Morel have served me well elsewhere. Happy to answer questions if helpful.
It has been known to run very hot, and needs to be tuned. It does fit in the factory amp location too. Might want to run a bigger amp gauge wire direct to the battery vs using the OEM thinner gauge.
I am looking for simple and easy - hence the passive set up
Thanks, I think that was the one I was thinking of.
Oh, I forgot to mention. I did fit the Pioneer TS - WX70DA active sub with controller to my H/K system.
Really, and I do mean really, improves the sound. It's a fantastic sub and fits perfectly in the boot!
The digital display on my OEM head unit is non existant after 3 minutes.
