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I am having an issue or issues with my 2010 cooper S. I pulled the spark plugs and sent a borescope into each one to find heavily oiled cylinders. I also did a compression test and got 150,160,160,160 starting from the driver's side to the passenger side with the engine warm. I have attached pictures here and a link to youtube video with the exhaust smoke coming out of my mini. I am just trying to figure out where is the oil coming from? Is it my piston rings or could it be valve seal related? Would definitely appreciate some input on this issue.
Is it my piston rings or could it be valve seal related?
^Either or both is possible. What are the differences between the dry and wet cylinder compression numbers? Can I assume that you disabled the fuel injectors during the compression tests?
Also check whether the PCV & breather systems are working properly. High crankcase pressure due to a lack of crankcase venting could contribute to oil burning.
Last edited by Maybe, maybe not; Sep 30, 2024 at 03:28 PM.
@Maybe, maybe not ,Yes I definitely disabled the fuel injection by pulling the fuel pump fuse. I let the car run afterwards until it used up all the fuel in the lines and shut off as a result. You definitely made an intriguing point about the PCV system testing, I didnt event think about that. Of all the research I did on google for mini specifically I didn't run into anyone mentioning the crankcase pressure as being a possible issue. My valve cover is a bit on the leaky side and I have ordered a new metal valve cover to try out. I am hoping at worst its the valve seals because I really dont feel like going under the car and opening up the bottom to replace cylinder rings.
So I decided to open up my valve cover and start cleaning up the engine head for the next valve cover. I also took a few pictures and attached them here if anyone can tell anything about my oil burning issue. Too me everything seems fine, but I am definitely no expert and trying to learn.
I don't see in your signature that you have a catch can? Do you have one? I would assume that it is your PCV allowing all that blowby to enter the intake. And have you ever blasted your valves?
@verydemure No I have not noticed performance drop, but these days I don't really push the rpms pass 2k because I don't want to exacerbate the issue what ever it may be.
@Coz3z3 No never got around to to installing a catch can and since I bought to car no valve cleaning yet. I am getting a new valve head today so lets see if that solves the issue.
Ok so I got the new valve head from amazon and installed it on the mini. It came with shiny new bolts which was nice. I let it sit for a few hours before turning on the car and everything seemed fine at first, but then I noticed a nocking noise from under the valve and I made a video about it. Not sure what it could be since I looked over the valve head before installing and compared it to the plastic version and everything seem correct. Also for whatever reason I decided to open the oil cap just to see if I can hear the noise better and it definitely got louder. I also noticed that I could smell exhaust smoke from the oil filler cap which I believe should not be there. Did a bit of research and everybody seems to say that in general its a valve stem seal issue.
For the knocking noise, it almost sounds like the vacuum pump. I could be wrong, but I would first start with taking the valve cover off again and triple checking everything. Also, with an Amazon valve cover, I would be concerned with how their PCV is setup and maybe that is what is causing the noise. Maybe throw on the old one and start it up and see if the noise goes away. As far as the exhaust smell, yeah that sounds like a leak in the seals. It was actual exhaust smell you were smelling? I would make sure you didn't get a little drip of oil onto the heat shield, area there and it was just still burning off while you were there. If it had an oily smell to it. Another thing to check right there is if the manifold area smells like that with the cap on. Could be an exhaust leak somewhere.
@Coz3z3 Is it normal for the vacuum pump to make that noise or does it mean something is wrong with it? I will definitely throw the old one one again and see if I get the noise with the original plastic one. I also made a video of my valves attached here and they look pretty nasty. I was thinking that I should bite the bullet and remove the top half of the engine and walnut blast everything. I was also thinking of buying new valves since I remember watching one guy's video on youtube that showed him disassembling two N14 engines and both had broken exhaust valves.
@Coz3z3 Is it normal for the vacuum pump to make that noise or does it mean something is wrong with it? I will definitely throw the old one one again and see if I get the noise with the original plastic one. I also made a video of my valves attached here and they look pretty nasty. I was thinking that I should bite the bullet and remove the top half of the engine and walnut blast everything. I was also thinking of buying new valves since I remember watching one guy's video on youtube that showed him disassembling two N14 engines and both had broken exhaust valves.
No it shouldn't be making that noise, it would be going out. If it locks up, it could do a lot of damage because it spins off of the Camshaft. I also forgot you have the aluminum valve cover. I don't know much about it as I don't have it, but maybe it being metal is just making everything seem louder.
For the valves, they don't look that bad. I'm assuming they have been cleaned, or that video is showing just the exhaust valves that are open. The intake is what gets caked up. I have attached what mine looked like before I did it. You don't need to take the cylinder head off to do the walnut blast either. As for the valves, it's the valve seats/seals that leak, those need to be pressed in. Usually have to take it to a shop to have it redone. Not just swapping out valves.
Yah I am also thinking the aluminium is just making it sound louder vs the plastic valve cover. Also when I mentioned wallnut blasting I wanted to blast the top of the cylinder heads since they look so gunky. If you look at the attached picture I have put yellow arrows to what I believe to be the exhaust valve head. You can clearly see cacked on black substance on it that I like to remove or just replace the valve with a new one. Also I put the black gunk in a yellow square that I would also like to take care of, so that's why I would need to remove the top half of the engine. While I am also there I can easily change the valve steam seals too. I would love suggestions on what else I can renew while I have the head off like valve springs and such. I have never done any cleaning on the engine since I owned and the previous owner maintained it at the mini dealership in Toronto. The car has been sitting for about two years without driving it at all since I wasn't home much. I would like to get at least200,000 km / 130,000 ish miles out of it.
Oh alright, I understand what you are wanting to do now. As for suggestions, it depends on your goals of what you want to do. Early last year, my crank bolt spun and I bent all of my exhaust valves. So I sent my cylinder head to get ported/polished and new stronger valves put in. I am running methanol injection and planning on eventually going forged and bigger turbo and whatnot though. So it depends on what you want. While the head is off though, you could do the oil cooler gaskets that are notorious for leaking, the water pipe crossover would be super easy to access if you haven't done that yet. Same with thermostat of course. As far as springs, I believe mine were more or less stock when reassembled. I don't think you would need new ones, but since you have to remove them anyways to do the valves, might as well.
@Coz3z3 Honestly I am just looking into getting the Mini back to stock performance with more reliability. I just see the N14 engine as too troublesome to try to make more power, seems like a black hole of money to me. How is the water/meth injection working out for you? Did you get a chance to look at the top of your intake valves and see if they are cleaner now? Even with that system I am thinking that it will keep intake valves clean and cylinder temperatures lower so the engine would stay reliable, not so much looking into getting extra power.
Here's a simple way to check if its your valve guide seals or Piston Rings. Let the vehicle idle for 10 minutes. Rev the engine. If it smokes. Its your valve guide seals leaking. To check for piston rings. Drive the vehicle and have a car follow you to look at your exhaust. Wide open throttle and if its smokes. Its your piston rings.
@Jbm3s65 I did actually put an action came on top of my exhaust and the only time I saw smoke coming out was pretty much from dead stop. During normal driving I did not see any smoke from the exhaust.
@Coz3z3 Honestly I am just looking into getting the Mini back to stock performance with more reliability. I just see the N14 engine as too troublesome to try to make more power, seems like a black hole of money to me. How is the water/meth injection working out for you? Did you get a chance to look at the top of your intake valves and see if they are cleaner now? Even with that system I am thinking that it will keep intake valves clean and cylinder temperatures lower so the engine would stay reliable, not so much looking into getting extra power.
That sounds good. I guess if you are taking the head off, I would do the timing chain as well. Unless you have done it within the last 10k miles or so. But, if it has been awhile or you're unsure, I would do it just so I know it is done. As far as the troublesome part, I agree with you, but I also find it isn't too bad. Especially after you are going to pull the head, you will practically know the entire engine, and how to disassemble it. It really isn't any worse from that. Keep up on maintenance and it is a really fun car.
The methanol is great. I love it. I have not looked at my valves since getting it setup properly. I don't drive for work so in the past 1.5 years, I have only driven about 1,500 miles or so and that is on the rebuilt head, and 5 injectors of methanol lol. But, I am going to assume they are cleaner.
Ok so I had a busy few days with the mini. I put it in front end service mode and removed the exhaust and intake manifolds. With the exhaust manifold off I got a good view of the valves and took some pictures. It definitely looks like oil is seeping through the stem seals. Now I have to figure out what I can reuse and what I need to replace. I am going to get a new timing chain, but wondering if I need to change the gears for the cam shafts or that bottom gear on the crankshaft.
Yeah, it looks like they are definitely leaking. How do the intake valves look?
The cam gears are up to you I feel like. I believe they recommend replacing them with the timing chain. I didn't. I did end up replacing the Vanos one on the intake side when I had the cylinder head rebuilt. Those bolts are one time use as well so be sure to pick those up. When you buy the kit, it should come with the gear on the bottom by the crankshaft. Don't forget a new crankshaft hub and seal too. The seal definitely needs replacing, but the hub can be reused, but I replaced it just because it was easier and made me feel better. It is also up to you, but you can replace all the bolts that hold the timing chain guides in place. I can't remember if they are one time use or not. That is all I can think of right now. If you have questions though, let me know and I will try to answer them.
Thanks @Coz3z3 , appreciate the help. I have been gathering a list of parts and wanted your input on it. I think its complete but there might be some oring or bolt missing somewhere. Pictures attached. Also the last two orings are for the vacuum pump and high pressure fuel pump.
Good start. I would get an extra seal for the crank hub just to be safe. It can be kind of a pain to install, and if you mess it up, at least you will have another on hand. You will need new bolts for the cam gears as well. They are one time use. I am assuming you have the camshaft locking tool set too? Will definitely need that. Schwaben makes a big crank tool too. It helps with tightening the crank bolt down. It takes a lot of torque. It is also just a big piece of steel with 4 holes in it so if you are handy you can probably fab one up. The exhaust gasket and intake gaskets are reusable. I wouldn't replace them unless you just want them to be new, or something is very messed up on them. Save you a few dollars.
Another thing I just thought of is your water pump. I mentioned the water crossover pipe before, but since you will have the accessories off down there, it would be a good time to replace the water pump if it is still the stock plastic one. They have the upgraded aluminum one for it. And again, water pipe with it.
Ok I think **** hit the fan for me while I was trying to lock in the flywheel. I have Spec kit with the single mass flywheel and I have been rotating the sucker maybe 10 or 20 times and I cannot see a hole for my locking pin to go into. Link to the flywheel is attached below. I am thinking I just open everything up and do my thing, once I am closing it just follow Eric the Car Guys video on how to get timing right. Link for that video also below. Upside is it works and downside is I mess up the engine. Any thoughts?
So from the pictures of the flywheel, it looks like there are 3 holes that the tool will go into. You will have to pull the valve cover and see where the cams line up with the tool and whatnot. There are markings on the camshaft that need to face up. That is where you will find that hole and know it is set in the correct position. But, I do not know if that tool fits in that flywheel. It could be a different diameter compared to stock. You could probably call them and see if they have the answer. As far as following the video, yeah, the camshafts will be coming out anyways so you will have to set it back up like he did. But I would definitely try to make sure it is set at least close to that hole. The locking tool just helps make sure the motor doesn't turn over when taking off and putting on the crank bolt. Although it shouldn't be heavily relied on, it does help. If you decide to just kind of wing it, once you get it back together, I would turn it over by hand to see if you are building any compression. I think if you are out on the flywheel, the timing is off as well and you probably won't have any compression building so it will turn over super easy. That way you have a general idea before trying to fire it.
Hi @Coz3z3 I have attached two pictures of different flywheels, one original dual mass and the second the Spec flywheel I have. Looking at both pictures I have put a yellow circle on the three holes that you mentioned on both flywheels. I definitely dont think that is where the locking tool goes. I have watched two videos of clutch and flywheel installations and both of them point to the indentation I have marked with a yellow arrow. That indentation is missing on my Spec flywheel. I had a borescope in the flywheel locking hole and watched the camera as I made several turns of the crank bolt and didn't see anything pass by where the tool would fit into. I can make a video of it and attach a link if you like. This flywheel is sold on several Mini related shops and I am just shocked that there is no mention of the missing locking tool indentation anywhere. OEM flywheel Spec flywheel
