The local MINI dealer wanted ~$1382 to replace my leaking top, right mount, but I just did it in 3 hours for the cost of the part and it was pretty easy. Here are the detailed steps that worked for me:
A: PREPARATION: 1. Raise the front of the car - I set my front tires on ramps. 2. Use a jack under the front end of the wishbone mount near the oil pan to support the engine. 3. TOOLS: 8, 10, 13, 16, and 18mm sockets, ratchet, extensions, u-joint for the ratchet, battery powered screw gun is helpful, T30 Torx, 10, 12, and 14 External torx, 8mm and 18mm wrenches (8mm ratchet wrench helpful), flashlight or good lighting. Preparation is done - easy.
B: ACCESS: 1. Revmove the two stiffeners under the rear of the splash shield beneath the car (13mm); 2. Remove the splash shield from beneath the car. (8mm). 3. Remove the right headlight (T30 torx and 10mm socket). Squeeze the two ends of the electrical connector and pull to disconnect. Set the light aside. 4. Strut brace: a. Use your fingernails to pull 1 plastic fastener straight up from each strut brace cover. Set them aside. b. Remove 1 screw from the top of each cover (8mm). Set aside. c. Gently pull the rubber seal off of the "T" shaped "Christmas tree fastener", 1 per end. d. Remove the plastic strut brace cover from each end. e. Remove 4 bolts from the strut brace (10mm). Set the bolts and brace aside. Access steps are done - easy.
C. REMOVE 4 ITEMS THAT ATTACH TO THE ENGINE MOUNT: 1. Remove the 8mm screw at the rear of the mount that retains a black plastic shield. I used a ratchet wrench and used my other hand to hold the wrench on the small screw head. This was the hardest step for me. 2. Remove a smaller A/C line cushioned hose clamp bolt located near the center of the mount (10mm Ext Torx). Bolt is about 3/4" long, fyi. 3. There are two white plastic A/C line support clips. Background: The clips attach to the engine mount with a stud having a 16mm head (can use a wrench) and above the head is a ball. Between the stud and the white clip is a rubber cushion. Here are the steps: Slide the barbed latch along the axis of the A/C line to disconnect. These white plastic clips are quite flexible and mount to rubber cushions. Unsnap the rubber cushion, if reasonable, from the stud, then unscrew the stud once the mount is out. If this feels like too much force on your A/C line, then unscrew the studs from the engine mount using a 16mm wrench and a lot of patience. This step is done!
D: ENGINE MOUNT BOLT REMOVAL: Five bolts: With the engine supported, 1. Remove the bolt connecting the rear of the engine mount to the strut tower (18mm). I had to push the plastic shield back a little to get the socket in there. 2. Loosten the 3 bolts connecting the engine mount to the engine (External Torx 12), do not remove yet. 3. Loosen the bolt connecting the front of the engine mount to the chassis (U-Joint, Extension, and External Torx 14). 4. One last time, make sure the engine is fully supported by the jack, maybe lifting up the engine slightly so that when the engine mount bolts are removed, the engine isn't "hanging by a thread." 5. Remove the 3 engine mount to engine bolts. 6. Remove the front engine mount to chassis bolt. The mount is ready to come out!
E. ENGINE MOUNT REMOVAL: THere is some wiggle room with the engine position, so I lowered mine to give a little more space to pull the mount out from behind the headlight opening. 1. Lower engine a little. 2. Wiggle the old mount out through the opening behind the headlight. Don't force anything, just see where the light snag is (A/C line, whatever) and work the mount out. Engine mount is out!!!
F. NEW ENGINE MOUNT INSTALLATION: 1. Before installing the new mount, remove the white plastic nut plate located at the rear of the old mount and slide it into place on the new mount until is clicks into place. 2. WIth the new mount on the workbench or in the vice, now is the best time to install the two ball-studs that support the A/C line clips. The holes in the aluminum are not tapped, but the use of a ratchet and socket, putting pressure on the stud as you screw it in, seems to work fine and it self taps. (16mm). 3. OK - now put the new engine mount into the car. 4. Use the jack to raise or lower the engine slightly. Start all 5 engine mount bolts so you know they are threading in just fine. 6. Once they are all started, make sure the engine is raised back up, then tighten the 3 engine mount to engine bolts (External Torx 12). 7. Tighten the other two engine mount to chassis bolts. The new engine mount is installed.
G. REATTACH 4 ITEMS THAT CONNECT TO THE ENGINE MOUNT: I found this the most difficult, dropping screws, etc. 1. I was able to use my fingers to get the rear 8mm screw through the plastic cover and into the nut plate that you installed earlier. Once started, it can be slowly wrench snug. A ratchet wrench is helpful with one hand holding the wrench on the 8mm screw head. 2. Attach the External Torx 10 bolt through the A/C tube clamp and screw it into the engine mount threaded hole. TIP: Lower the engine slightly to give room for your socket and ratchet. 3. Put the two White A/C line retaining clips on the A/C lines, then "snap" their rubber cushions on to the respective ball studs. You can feel them "snap" onto the ball. Done with this step!
H. INSTALL THE HEADLIGHT: This is straightforward with one TIP: The hood closes over the headlight, so it may take a try or two to position the light with even hood gaps. Mine needed to be pushed toward the centerline of the car for proper gaps.
I. STRUT BRACE REINSTALLATION: The tips here have to do with the covers. 1. Position the strut brace and install the four 10mm bolts. 2. While the plastic covers are off, remove the two little "T" barbed push-in plastic clips the retain the rubber seal and set them aside. 3. Position the covers back on the car. 4. Install the two plastic "push in nails" looking fasteners that you pulled out with your fingernails. 5. Install two screws (8mm). 6. Push the tiny "T-barb" fasteners through the rubber seal and plastic parts. 7. Check if the cowl seal has slid off. If so, just slide it back on. Strut brace is checked off.
J: SPLASH SHIELD: Remove the jack from under the engine and install the splash shield underneath the car using millions of screws (8mm).
K: UNDER CAR BRACES: Install the two aluminum braces under the back of the splash shield (13mm). These were just removed for access to the rear splash shield screws.
L: LOWER THE CAR OFF THE JACKS. YOU'RE DONE (NOT INCLUDING PUTTING AWAY YOUR TOOLS).
Cheers, hope this helps. I would rate this job a 2 on a 10 scale (10 = rebuild an automatic transmission). It's not hard, it just takes a while.
-John / Kansas CIty, MO

 

Thanks! We have the motor mount DIY here also. This will confirm the 2020+ F54s/


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html