R50/53 BC1 Issues?
BC1 Issues?
Hi everyone,
I have a 2002 Mini Cooper R50 that I originally bought with 193000klms (about 120k miles) and a blown head gasket about 18 months ago. I did the head gasket and got the car on the road and have put about 2000klms on it. Apart from needing to change the fuel pump and pressure regulator, it has been o.k.
Along with the related lights I recently got the message “5DF5 internal fault, control unit”, I couldn’t clear the error. I first replaced all the speed sensors though the error remained. I then bought from eBay an unused supposedly reconditioned ABS unit complete. I swapped out the whole unit instead of just the ABS electronic module. This cleared the lights, except for the ASC ( arrow circling triangle with exclamation). When I went to cycle the ASC toggle switch there was a sizzling sound and associated smoke from behind the toggle switch unit. This resulted in losing the headlights, speed and tachometer indications ( led and all dash lights still work). I removed the toggle master unit and found the pcb burnt beyond repair at the ASC switch location so have replaced the unit with another 2nd hand part. This didn’t solve my issue. I scanned the car and have the fault in the ASC/ABS section “5E16 CAN connection to instrument cluster”. I removed the footwell panel and not that the BC1 has what looks like a purpose made bag over the top and the area seems quite dry.
Mine has the speedo behind the steering wheel and tach cluster in the centre of the dash. Anyone have any ideas? Should I replace the Body Control Module, the tach cluster or both? The confusing part is how are the headlights associated with the instruments and how did frying the ASC activation switch affect all three? I note that I can pull the indicator/headlight stem and the hi beam comes on but doesn’t stay on. The parking lights and tail/stop lights all work normally. Please Help!
I have a 2002 Mini Cooper R50 that I originally bought with 193000klms (about 120k miles) and a blown head gasket about 18 months ago. I did the head gasket and got the car on the road and have put about 2000klms on it. Apart from needing to change the fuel pump and pressure regulator, it has been o.k.
Along with the related lights I recently got the message “5DF5 internal fault, control unit”, I couldn’t clear the error. I first replaced all the speed sensors though the error remained. I then bought from eBay an unused supposedly reconditioned ABS unit complete. I swapped out the whole unit instead of just the ABS electronic module. This cleared the lights, except for the ASC ( arrow circling triangle with exclamation). When I went to cycle the ASC toggle switch there was a sizzling sound and associated smoke from behind the toggle switch unit. This resulted in losing the headlights, speed and tachometer indications ( led and all dash lights still work). I removed the toggle master unit and found the pcb burnt beyond repair at the ASC switch location so have replaced the unit with another 2nd hand part. This didn’t solve my issue. I scanned the car and have the fault in the ASC/ABS section “5E16 CAN connection to instrument cluster”. I removed the footwell panel and not that the BC1 has what looks like a purpose made bag over the top and the area seems quite dry.
Mine has the speedo behind the steering wheel and tach cluster in the centre of the dash. Anyone have any ideas? Should I replace the Body Control Module, the tach cluster or both? The confusing part is how are the headlights associated with the instruments and how did frying the ASC activation switch affect all three? I note that I can pull the indicator/headlight stem and the hi beam comes on but doesn’t stay on. The parking lights and tail/stop lights all work normally. Please Help!
Regrettably I think that you may be right Mr Bean, especially as the toggle switch only sends the on or off signal rather than allow current to pass through. I must admit that electrics are my weakness, I still don’t understand why it should affect the instruments and headlights though, the fuses and relays are still all good also.
I think the biggest lesson is listen to your doubting side, if something sounds too good to be true it probably is, the eBay description was “ bought as a spare, no longer have car” why someone would pay $1050 for a reconditioned part and then sell it for $350…? Glad I haven’t left a rating yet at least…
As much as I try to repair and solve all issues myself, I think I will be falling on my sword and going to an auto electrician…
I think the biggest lesson is listen to your doubting side, if something sounds too good to be true it probably is, the eBay description was “ bought as a spare, no longer have car” why someone would pay $1050 for a reconditioned part and then sell it for $350…? Glad I haven’t left a rating yet at least…
As much as I try to repair and solve all issues myself, I think I will be falling on my sword and going to an auto electrician…
Does anyone know if aside from having to re code the BC1 for central locking are you able to use the later R50/53 BC1 that looks like it’s housed in a black plastic case, in place of the earlier R50/53 BC1 that is housed in the finned cast alloy predominantly? I also removed the large harness plug under the fuse box. I do have some corrosion there however there is one pin missing that has a corresponding wire (solid brown) at the very end of one side. I am yet to look up a wiring diagram to see what that is. I am booked in at the auto electrician next Friday though thinking I might try another BC1, except the later incarnation is the only one available.
*an update*
Hi everyone,
So after taking the R50 to an Auto Electrician, and paying for a couple of hours diagnosis ( I already had both footwell panels and glovebox removed for access), I came away with the suggestion that the main cluster could be at fault. We tried disconnecting the new wheel speed sensors as well as refitting the electronic part of the original ABS module, no difference. I have since purchased a 2nd hand cluster and tried it with no joy, however, I sent a friend to collect it for me and he didn’t realise it was from a 2008 model. Mine has the tach as the main cluster in the centre dash and the speedo is the small steering column mounted instrument. Part number is different as are the specs of the replacement cluster, though thought I would try it anyway. No change, and exactly the same symptoms, with the ignition on, the airbag light comes on, the tach needle sweeps up to about 2k and the fuel gauge goes to about half tank before returning to the rest position on starting.
If I turn on the headlights on only the parking lights come on as well as the instruments illuminating, exactly the same with either cluster fitted. However I have since discovered that without the steering column mounted speedo harness plugged in at all, the headlights work and can be switched from low to hi beam, as does the fan (another symptom I hadn’t initially noticed). However the cluster doesn’t illuminate.
I swapped the speedo for the original one I removed as the led display didn’t work, thinking this may have been the issue, but with it plugged in we return to illuminated instruments no lights except the airbag. Is this just load shedding?
Do I assume that the main centre dash tach/cluster is to blame and the 2nd one I bought is not solving the issue as it’s a different part number? Do I spend another $100 on one that is the correct part number? Can the original cluster be tested and repaired? I pulled the cluster covers off and can’t see anything visually amiss (dry joints, burning etc) which I realise doesn’t prove it’s good.
When I scan with my Ancel BM700 there is many faults, there was a lot before this all happened though.
ECM2 ENGINE CONTROL MODULE:
1612 Serial communication, instrument cluster
1627 System Voltage, Load Sensor High
0575 Cruise Control Input Circuit. (I have scanned every time I remove or check something etc and this is a new fault)
EWS Elec. Immobilize System:
33 toleration of changing code increased with key # 3
ABS/ACS/DCS DYNAMIC ST…:
5E16 CAN connection to instrument cluster
IHKA/IHKR AC/Heater:
01 Solar sensor
02 Inside-temperature sensor
03 Heat exchanger sensor
04 Position, air-distribution flap
05 Position, temperature mixing flap
(06 &07 are unknown to the data base)
08 Fan, inside-temperature sensor
09 Motor, air-distribution flap
0A Motor, temperature mixing flap
IKE/IKI/KOMBI INSTRUMENT CLUSTER: O.K.
Unless I am missing something, I am guessing that if the main cluster was damaged I should get a fault?
If you have any suggestions (apart from burn it..), please voice them. Should I per-sue the instrument cluster or should I look for a needle in the haystack wiring issue? PLEASE HELP 😄!
Thanks
Adrian
So after taking the R50 to an Auto Electrician, and paying for a couple of hours diagnosis ( I already had both footwell panels and glovebox removed for access), I came away with the suggestion that the main cluster could be at fault. We tried disconnecting the new wheel speed sensors as well as refitting the electronic part of the original ABS module, no difference. I have since purchased a 2nd hand cluster and tried it with no joy, however, I sent a friend to collect it for me and he didn’t realise it was from a 2008 model. Mine has the tach as the main cluster in the centre dash and the speedo is the small steering column mounted instrument. Part number is different as are the specs of the replacement cluster, though thought I would try it anyway. No change, and exactly the same symptoms, with the ignition on, the airbag light comes on, the tach needle sweeps up to about 2k and the fuel gauge goes to about half tank before returning to the rest position on starting.
If I turn on the headlights on only the parking lights come on as well as the instruments illuminating, exactly the same with either cluster fitted. However I have since discovered that without the steering column mounted speedo harness plugged in at all, the headlights work and can be switched from low to hi beam, as does the fan (another symptom I hadn’t initially noticed). However the cluster doesn’t illuminate.
I swapped the speedo for the original one I removed as the led display didn’t work, thinking this may have been the issue, but with it plugged in we return to illuminated instruments no lights except the airbag. Is this just load shedding?
Do I assume that the main centre dash tach/cluster is to blame and the 2nd one I bought is not solving the issue as it’s a different part number? Do I spend another $100 on one that is the correct part number? Can the original cluster be tested and repaired? I pulled the cluster covers off and can’t see anything visually amiss (dry joints, burning etc) which I realise doesn’t prove it’s good.
When I scan with my Ancel BM700 there is many faults, there was a lot before this all happened though.
ECM2 ENGINE CONTROL MODULE:
1612 Serial communication, instrument cluster
1627 System Voltage, Load Sensor High
0575 Cruise Control Input Circuit. (I have scanned every time I remove or check something etc and this is a new fault)
EWS Elec. Immobilize System:
33 toleration of changing code increased with key # 3
ABS/ACS/DCS DYNAMIC ST…:
5E16 CAN connection to instrument cluster
IHKA/IHKR AC/Heater:
01 Solar sensor
02 Inside-temperature sensor
03 Heat exchanger sensor
04 Position, air-distribution flap
05 Position, temperature mixing flap
(06 &07 are unknown to the data base)
08 Fan, inside-temperature sensor
09 Motor, air-distribution flap
0A Motor, temperature mixing flap
IKE/IKI/KOMBI INSTRUMENT CLUSTER: O.K.
Unless I am missing something, I am guessing that if the main cluster was damaged I should get a fault?
If you have any suggestions (apart from burn it..), please voice them. Should I per-sue the instrument cluster or should I look for a needle in the haystack wiring issue? PLEASE HELP 😄!
Thanks
Adrian
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