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All, I was able to replace the clutch slave line... .slave cylinder was fine... clutch pedal works good after bleeding... so here's the NEW problem... it is VERY HARD to move shifter into gears... I am able to HARD push it into 1st, 2nd, and reverse.... 3rd and beyond is grinding... so here's my thoughts... how / should I adjust clutch so that shifting gears 3-5 are easier (clutch further out)? Also could the hard/stiff shifter be because of low or no fluid in the gear box? If so, how do i check gearbox fluid and add if needed? Or could the two items mentioned above here be related? Thanks in advance!
fluid will make no difference. check the bushing on the shift gear on top on the transmission. Also make sure you clutch is working all the way. As far as i know you cannot adjust the throw of the clutch.
I'll add the behavior suggests the clutch hydraulic system needs bleeding. Yes, I know you bled it but it is not unknown for the procedure to be done imperfectly. I'm guilty of this when I bled the brakes and clutch hydraulic systems on my Porsche Boxster and ended up having to redo the clutch hydraulic system bleed late at night at the office. More recently a M-B dealer tech botched the brake hydraulic system bleed on a M-B cargo van of mine. Had to take the van back when the brake pedal sunk while holding the van still at a stop light.
RockC has the right idea. Suggest you have someone watch the slave cylinder when you fully depress the clutch pedal to see if it's not fully actuating.
All, I was able to lubricate the bushing (shrevemini) on top of the transmission... the car has been sitting for a long time so there was rust in those links and that has helped alot. I'm going to put some penetrating oil in the links to loosen it up even further. And checking the slave cylinder (NC TRACKRAT) to make sure see if it's fully actuating sounds like a great idea (even though there are no leaks there). Funny thing is, I just sent the new replacement slave cylinder back for refund... go figure. I will stil check anyway. RockC, I was using a power bleeder to get that job done. But if I need to replace the slave cylinder, then I'll be bleeding again... I've heard to compressing the actuator while bleeding also helps. Guys, stay tuned!
BigDog, it's imperative that you compress the slave cylinder while bleeding. You can fashion a tool to do it. Here's a picture of mine using a 1-1/4 inch conduit wall clamp, some scrap metal straps and a couple of long screws, washers and nuts.
NC TRACKRAT, I was able to fully compress the slave cylinder and bleed, but to no avail. Curious, if you see the picture below (example) the rubber part stayed inside the clutch and didn't come out... and there was a black powder that fell out with the rest of the push rod (internal to rubber part) . I still bled it, but I think the slave cylinder maybe shot... don't you think? I ordered another one today to be sure. Also, when I do pull the old slave cylinder including the rubber part noted below, will there be any fluid leakage when completely detached from clutch? Thanks in advance.
Last edited by BigDog9721; Nov 27, 2023 at 12:26 PM.
if you clamp the slave infully compressed position and there is no air in the system you should not be able to push the pedal down, if you can it could be clutch master cyl seals, unfortunately black dust can be a sign of burnt out clutch plate
Russ
I believe BigDog says that the rubber boot on the slave cylinder collapsed and black dust fell out with the broken rod, not the master cylinder. It's a wonder that he can shift at all. Yes, when the slave cylinder is detached, you'll lose fluid and more bleeding is in order. If you keep the cap on the reservoir, it may slow the flow down some.
All, I was able to lubricate the bushing (shrevemini) on top of the transmission... the car has been sitting for a long time so there was rust in those links and that has helped alot. I'm going to put some penetrating oil in the links to loosen it up even further. And checking the slave cylinder (NC TRACKRAT) to make sure see if it's fully actuating sounds like a great idea (even though there are no leaks there). Funny thing is, I just sent the new replacement slave cylinder back for refund... go figure. I will stil check anyway. RockC, I was using a power bleeder to get that job done. But if I need to replace the slave cylinder, then I'll be bleeding again... I've heard to compressing the actuator while bleeding also helps. Guys, stay tuned!
The time I botched the clutch hydraulic system bleed I was using a power bleeder. I don't know what I did wrong but after a 30 mile drive -- to work -- it was clear there was a problem. After work before leaving for home and with no power bleeder with me I manually bled the system with a co-worker in the car working the clutch pedal. I believe the procedure calls for the clutch pedal to be fully depressed, the bleed valve opened just bit then closed. Then the pedal IIRC has to be manually pulled up from the floor. This gets repeated a time or two. The hydraulic system is not that voluminous so it doesn't take that many bleed cycles to flush out the old fluid and any air that might be in the system. After the clutch worked fine.
'course, the bleed operation assumes there is no leak in the system. And a bleed operation won't help if the clutch or slave cylinders leak fluid/pressure when the clutch pedal is depressed.
All, not sure if this is a problem or an easy fix.... picture on top is original with flare nut connection, and picture on bottom is the replacement with a clip connection... is there a converter to get this to work?
Guys, looks like i got the wrong part again.... below is the actual part which DOES have the flare nut connection... Part# 21526785965 . This one doesn't have the rubber cover on the end... the one (rubber cover) I have on my car is inside the clutch... I guess I keep using the old rubber insert that's already there?
Last edited by BigDog9721; Nov 30, 2023 at 11:33 AM.
ok guys, replaced clutch slave cylinder, rebled system, and still grinding... so... I went to dealserhip... after their analysis, thay said I have failing snychros and need a new transmission.... $8300 (LOL). So... if i need a new transmission, I'm looking at a used one.... so any thoughts or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated...
