Hello all, I am in process of reinstalling my new timing chain. I put the new crank bolt in with the locking pin set. I did not however have the cams in at the same time. After I torqued the crank bolt to spec, I then put in the cams with the cam locks tool. I plan to torque the tensioner next and then the cam sprockets. Then I will remove the pin and the cam lock tools and rotate the crank bolt 4 times and recheck the timing at that point. Is this order acceptable. I did not see a problem with torquing the crank bolt and then putting the cams in and proceeding from there but all the diy videos have me second guessing myself.

 

You should be fine in that order. The intent is just to make sure the crank and cams are “in time” with each other. However, instead of using the tensioner, I believe you need to use the chain tension tool to set the chain slack. Then, after setting the car gear bolts, replace with the actual tensioner.

 

^ x2. Use the tensioner tool that came with your cam lock kit. .6NM torque on the tensioner, or I've read, good and finger tight. Don't rotate engine without either the tension tool or tensioner in place, after chain is fully installed.

Tensioner tool, cam sprockets to torque and angle, then torque real tensioner.

 

It's actually 0.6NM not 6NM and its very important difference. If you don't have a tension toll use an actual tensioner, tension toll just mimicking tensioner. Don't use a " good and finger tight "

 

Yeah, 0.6Nm is about 5 in-lbs. Ever try to measure 5 in-lbs? Its just about finger tight. Thread the tool against the chain finger tight, then snug the lock nut, and you're pretty much good to go.

Also, I would use the actual tensioner because it is spring loaded and could move when tightening the cam bolts.

 

Yup, note the decimal point in front of my 6. Thanks for clarifying though.

EDIT: Agree with both above if you don't have the tool.

 

Correct. I will also use a tensioner tool, Im just not a fan of a finger tight measures especially when timing the engine.

 

The purpose of that tool is to take up the slack in the chain, and prevent it from moving when setting the cam bolts. That is all. You definitely DON'T want to use a spring loaded tensioner for that task, or you risk the cam gears being off slightly.

 

Thank you everyone, I'm glad I asked. I was just going to torque the tensioner without presetting. So many videos and other people have said that was the old way of doing it and the new way with the new tensioners is just to go ahead and skip preset. Most people also say, to torque crank, tensioner, intake and then exhaust. But from what I'm hearing it should be, crank, pretension, intake cam, exhaust cam, then torque tensioner. Is that correct?
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It's probably hard to tell what I'm talking about with these pictures




You can kind of see in this picture if you enlarge it that the rockers aren't perfectly lined up, but I'm assuming this is normal from the direction of the lobes.
Also, I replaced the valve steam seals and when putting the intake cam on and torquing everything I noticed that the springs and rockers on cylinder 8 are offset quite a bit to the rest. I'll try to attach a photo. I'm assuming this is because of the direction the lines are pointing upon installing. I this or does this look normal? I'm just paranoid about putting it all back and then kissing the valve stems because I did it wrong. 1st time doing this.