I have a Countryman S N18 2013 that I took to a mechanic due to an oil leak. The leak is coming from the rear main seal and the mechanic quoted $3300 to get the repair done including parts because he has to pull the transmission and also replace all the seals and gaskets there to ensure the leak doesn't have a secondary source. He said the parts are about $1000 and I asked for an itemized list which I will update the post with once he sends it.

Is this what this type of repair usually costs? I'm having a hard time finding gaskets and seals that cost $1000 for this car and he also said my downstream O2 sensor is bad and the replacement costs $500, looking online I see these sensors ranging from $40-100, so I'm very skeptical about these quotes.

 

I'll be honest and say I don't know. My local indy shop gets $120/hr. I think the total price isn't all that bad, even if the parts price sounds high.

If the engine comes out to do that, seems a good price. If there's an easy way to drop the transmission to get to the seal, I'm unaware of it. But if the latter, yeah maybe that's a bit high.

Do post back when you get the itemized quote.

 

The mechanic could just be well aware of the dealership rate. Is the shop BIMRS certified? When I was shopping clutch replacement, independent Euro shops that flaunted this certification quoted the exact same price as the closest dealership. Granted, they probably also took advantage of the fact that the nearest dealership was over 100 miles away. But anyhow in my experience, I find OEM MINI/BMW parts in general are ridiculously expensive.

 

Ok here's the line item breakdown of parts of labor. My biggest gripe with this is the cylinder head cover price, they're charging $723. Copying the same part number they listed, I see it ranging from $300-400
https://parts.bramanmotorsbmw.com/oe...er-11127646552

They said the leak isn't even coming from the valve cover, they just want to replace it to ensure that there are no more sources of oil leaks.




@jawilli6

 

If the valve cover isn't leaking then can probably leave it alone. I believe it is not a big deal to replace it down the road (stated there are no current leaks) and focus on the bottom end areas where they are working and is higher degree of difficulty. Also, you all ready found there are better sources for such a pricey part.

 

Yeah, I think I'll decline the valve cover replacement. Makes no sense to pay over $700 for a part when the OEM version is $400 cheaper. They're also charging triple the price for some of the seals compared to what I find from reputable sources. $90 for a seal vs $31 from ECS tuning:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/11117568264/

 

Good on you, looking up the prices. I failed to do that early on. Even they can be high on some stuff, but I tend to use them because they have been reliable in my experience. I've heard of FCPEuro as well, but have never purchased from them.

Now...what caused the rear crank seal to fail. Did it just go? It happens. Was it caused by a failed PCV, causing high crankcase pressure, which blew out the seal? I THINK that happened to me once, but it was the front crank seal that gushed. If that's what they're thinking...they might not want to warranty the work if it isn't replaced. Maybe they'll let you drop ship your preferred part to them...worth asking. ...brainstorming only, not qualified to give advice.

Looks like they are wanting to replace both crank seals. Which is nice, they're being diligent, even if overcharging. Unless they have no choice in order to do the rear. I'm unaware if that is the case. I don't think they would have to, though.

I'm surprised they're talking about pulling the engine for that price. Seems to me I paid just over a grand for the coolant/oil shared gasket to be replaced, and that doesn't require the engine to be pulled (well, plus some cleaning and diagnostics).

I don't THINK they're trying to rake you over the coals. Personally, I'd seriously, but politely, ask about that PCV cover and seal, and ask if you can give them parts. If they won't warranty their work that way....I don't know, I can see their argument.

Side notes. I don't know what they plan on using Great Stuff RTV on... but I'm barely a qualified backyard mechanic. Oil Pan? Someone know if something else is more appropriate? They didn't list the downstream O2 sensor in the quote. Which is good because if yours isn't totally rusted to the CAT/down pipe, you can do that yourself a lot cheaper, and definitely isn't related to the leak.

Good luck and please do share your experience/findings.

 

I don't think they had to replace the front crank seal, the mechanic seemed like he wanted to cover all potential current and future oil leaks.

Looking at this video it seems the RTV stuff is used to seal the cylinder head cover:
And yeah I declined the O2 sensor replacement. No way I'm paying $500 for a $50 sensor, and you're right it looks like a straightforward repair.

I'll definitely ask if I can ship them the OEM cylinder head cover from the MINI dealership. The only reason they would decline that is if they want to make a $400 profit off selling it to me for over $700. And I'll ask if he knows why the rear main seal failed and keep you posted. Thanks for the input.

 

That price seems a bit high. I'm not comforted when a mechanic tells me he has to replace all seals and gaskets to ensure there are no other leaks.

I had a 2002 Boxster RMS leak at around 25K miles. The RMS was a sort of known problem.

My memory has faded but I believe the factory RMS repair called for some attention be paid to the Intermediate Shaft End Plate below the RMS. This could be a leak source. Whatever was required was done and done under warranty.

Intermediate Shaft End Plate seal, replacement RMS (and the front main seal) remained oil tight and were oil tight when I sold the car 16 years later with 317K miles on it. The IMS bearing was fine, too.

Pic:

The RMS in my 2003 996 Turbo leaked at 110K miles. Tech told me he couldn't be sure it was the RMS because there were a couple of other potential leak sources behind the bell housing. Some oil galley plugs, and of course with the flat 6 engine where the 2 engine halves joined. Oh and there was a potential leak source outside of the bell housing some place above the bell housing. He checked that leak source and it was dry, free of any oil sign.

He dropped the transmission and just the RMS was leaking.

Pic:


Learned there's a "trick" to installing the new RMS. That is to be careful to *not* install it exactly where the old seal was. The old seal could have worn a slight groove around the crank journal and if the new seal was right at this groove it would leak after some time.

The above RMS was replaced at 110K miles and all engine seals were still good at 161K miles when I sold the car.

Want to stress in both cases the tech didn't replace all the seals/gaskets to ensure there was no secondary leak. The Turbo RMS repair was out of pocket. This was done in July 2013. I don't recall the price but I'm sure it was north (way north...) of $1000.

 

Thanks for the detailed reply, thats fascinating.

I talked to the mechanic again and asked if I could ship him the OEM part for the valve cover from the MINI dealership and he said no because he wouldn't make any more in that case and he won't do the job without replacing the valve cover. Tbh I appreciated his honesty but theres no way I'm going to pay for a $700 valve cover when my current one isn't even leaking, so I'm going to decline the entire job and look for another mechanic.

 

I respect their honesty, but not their price gouging. Good for you.

 

That kind of strategy would have me looking for another shop for sure.

 

Oh I forgot to say in my last reply. Just because it isn't leaking doesn't mean it's ok. PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) failures are common and can lead to excess crankcase pressure and blown seals. The PCV is integral to that valve cover. But hopefully the next place will let you choose your own, should you replace it.

 

Yes, I will replace it. It looks like an easy job so I'll just do it myself. I took the car to a new mechanic who quoted me $1600 to fix the rear main seal oil leak, freaking half of what the first one was trying to charge me.

I haven't dealt with too many mechanics before but it is normal for them to charge customers double-triple the price on the parts they buy? Is it not common for mechanics to allow you to bring in your own parts?

 

I don't know what mechanics do on average. The local independent shop near me charges $120/hr for labor, includes a guarantee, if you use their parts. If you bring your own parts, $150/hr and no guarantee. In their case this is ok because they use high quality third party parts where they can.

Hope this garage works out for you.

 

Until I checked the oil level and it was over filled. Let some out and poof, problem solved.

The weird dipstick apparently stumped the oilchange crew. Go figure.