F55/F56 Brake/clutch fluid flush
Brake/clutch fluid flush
I am going to attempt to do a 2 year brake fluid flush for my first time with a motive power bleeder on my 2016 F55. I am at 60,000 miles and the dealer last did a flush 2 years ago. My question is do I need to flush the clutch slave cylinder (and if so does it need to be compressed with a tool if I am using the motive bleeder) and do I also need to bleed the abs with my scan tool? I know the order of bleeding the brakes but not sure how the clutch and ABS fall into that order if they need to be done. Thanks.
Agreed and not sure why. I ended up doing the brake flush with a quart of fluid in my motive power bleeder and could not tell the difference from my new and old brake fluid so I left my clutch alone. When I did the flush on my son's mustang, there was a noticeable difference in the fluid look and color. I was afraid to mess with the clutch here with the old fluid looking good.
No MINI experience but with another (German) brand of sports car I did a brake and clutch hydraulic flush/bleed using a power bleeder.
After the brakes were done I bled the clutch hydraulic system which required depressing the clutch pedal and using a length of lumber to hold the pedal down. This didn't work well enough and the next day by the time I drove 30 miles to the office it was clear the clutch fluid flush/bleed was inadequate. I enlisted the help of a co-worker to hold the clutch pedal down a time or two while I opened this closed the bleed screw. The amount of fluid lost was minimal and I didn't have to add fluid to the brake fluid reservoir (from which the clutch hydraulic system obtained its fluid).
Techs use a telescoping rod which can be expanded to keep the clutch pedal down and the rod hooks under the steering wheel and the power bleed outcome is perfect.
As an aside I think the suggested bleed pressure was 20psi but I was advised to limit the pressure to 15psi.
I did not have a way to cycle the ABS pump so the brake hydraulic system bleed was not done by the book. This is one of the reasons why I gave up doing this service and instead for subsequent brake and clutch hydraulic services had the car at the dealer service department for this.
After the brakes were done I bled the clutch hydraulic system which required depressing the clutch pedal and using a length of lumber to hold the pedal down. This didn't work well enough and the next day by the time I drove 30 miles to the office it was clear the clutch fluid flush/bleed was inadequate. I enlisted the help of a co-worker to hold the clutch pedal down a time or two while I opened this closed the bleed screw. The amount of fluid lost was minimal and I didn't have to add fluid to the brake fluid reservoir (from which the clutch hydraulic system obtained its fluid).
Techs use a telescoping rod which can be expanded to keep the clutch pedal down and the rod hooks under the steering wheel and the power bleed outcome is perfect.
As an aside I think the suggested bleed pressure was 20psi but I was advised to limit the pressure to 15psi.
I did not have a way to cycle the ABS pump so the brake hydraulic system bleed was not done by the book. This is one of the reasons why I gave up doing this service and instead for subsequent brake and clutch hydraulic services had the car at the dealer service department for this.
Done it with the 3 liter schawben tool and it was fine with the that one, clutch and brake lines. Smaller tools its hard to do the clutch line.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../007237sch01a/

ABS mode on the schwaben scan tool is needed if you touch the ABS system or repair a line near it.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../007237sch01a/

ABS mode on the schwaben scan tool is needed if you touch the ABS system or repair a line near it.
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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