Hi all, I want to start performing my own oil changes and using Liqui Moly products. I've heard great things about their oils/additives to get the best performance from your engine while keeping it in great condition/health.

The owners manual in my '21 F56 S states to use BMW LL-01 FE or LL-14 FE+ or LL-17 FE+ and 0W-20 or 0W-30.

I thought great, contacted my local MINI dealership to see if they have an oil filter and crush washer in-stock and here's where I got lost.

The employee asked me what type of oil I was going to use and he told me I should be using any of the 5W oils

With that said for everyday driving (some spirited, non track) and being located in NY (winters) what oil should I be using?

Thanks so much for any help

Rich

 

What does it say under the hood?

 

I use 0W-30 on my 2019 Mini Cooper S. I'm pretty sure my oil cap has it written too (maybe you can check there). I'm not sure if it's changed for newer models.

And I buy my filters from WayMotorWorks:
Official Filters: https://www.waymotorworks.com/oil-filter-f56.html
Mahle Filters (same part number): https://www.waymotorworks.com/mahle-...5-f56-f57.html

I want to say those filters are crazy expensive from the dealership.

 

Yup!! Mahle, and Mann are both the OEM manufacturers for BMW/MINI

 

From the owner’s manual:




The LL-17 FE+ spec encompasses the older LL-14 FE+ spec, and the 17 FE+ spec is easier to find. There aren’t too many options available, other than the BMW/MINI-branded option. You want Liqui Moly Top Tec 6600. You can get it several places online, and you can order it through NAPA stores and their website.

 

I’m curious which oil you found in 0w-30 that meets LL-17 FE+ or LL-14 FE+. I’d like to move to a 0w-30 oil in at least my F57, since it’s tuned, but I haven’t found an oil of that weight that meets BMW’s/MINI’s specs.

 

I live in South Florida and use 0w20 Royal Purple in my 2015. I get the filters from ECS Tuning.

 

I just use Mobil 1. I know it's not BMW/Mini approved, but brand trust? Is it a big mistake =)

 

That’s difficult to answer. I follow the manufacturer recommended oil specifications after reading endless amounts of information about the BMW specs and such at BOB is the Oil Guy. They get into all the technical details.

 

Thank you all for the information and I apologize I’ve been absent the last couple of days

@TVPostSound, I forgot about the sticker on the intake snorkel. 0W-20 is recommended just like it states in the manual.

I managed to get a copy of the paperwork from my MINIs first service and it shows 5W-20 was used.

I don’t understand why they didn’t use 0W-20 since it’s the recommended oil

@Scypio and @TVPostSound, thanks for the heads up on the filters. @ECSTuning, @WayMotorWorks and FCP Euro has them a lot cheaper than the dealership.

@NBCGLX, thank you and yes the Top Tec 6600 0W-20 was the oil I wanted to purchase. I also want to add their Cera Tec additive.

@ASKtheteach, my neighbor uses Royal Purple in his MINI and likes their products.

I was also thinking about using a magnetic drain plug but wondering if it’s really worth it?

Rich

 

Per MINI SIM 11 01 21
2012-2015 0W30 LL01FE
2016 and newer 0W20 LL14FE+ or 0W20 LL17FE+

If the aftermarket oil filter doesn't come with the crush washer for the oil pan drain plug, the o-ring for the oil filter cap and the drain plug for the oil filter cap just buy the OEM filter and it all comes with the filter, nothing has to be purchased separately.

 

Oil the lifeblood of your engine. Well there are three Mfgs that meet the BMW FE+ specs for the B46 and B48 engines. Mini Oil brand from the dealer 0-20W meets the FE14+ spec, Liquid Moly Top Tec 6600 0-20W meets the latest FE17+ spec and made in Germany, and Total Quartz Extra Ineo Dynamic 0-20W meets the FE17+ spec, made in France. There are many other oils that meet the BMW longline 01 and 04 specs, but are not certified but as top off oils, read your owners manual. Liquid Moly 6600 you can get from Amazon for around $50 for 5L, Total Quartz Extra Ineo Dynamic you used to be able to procure from Car Id online for around $40 for 5Liters, but they have been out of stock for a long time and elsewhere really not available other than Ebay for around $15-$18 a liter. Mini Oil from the dealer is made by Castrol. Total oil is factory fill for Range Rover, and Rolls Royce, so you could probably get it from a Land Rover dealer, maybe, but be prepared to shell out some $$$. I have used all three in my 2018 Cooper S Hardtop, and I change oil every 5K miles. Oil filter kits are available most any auto parts store, STP, and other aftermarket brands as a kit with the cooper drain plug washer. I use either Hengst oil filters, Mann, or factory. I am not enamored with the Mini factory oil, never really like Castrol products, really like the Total oil, but the last three oil changes have been with Liquid Moly Top Tec 6600 as it is available. Formulation of the oil is important and why the specific spec callout by BMW, probably related to ash content or zinc of the oil or some other "witches" brew. The engines are designed to use a specific type/ formulation of oil. No longer can you go to Walmart and get something off the shelf that is a. cheap, from a known manufacturer, and with confidence know the formulation of said oil will not cause problems with special coating or processing of parts used to mfg the B series engines. So there you go, what info I have gleaned. Maybe Mobil 1 would work well over the long haul or other premium synthetic oils without meeting the spec reqmts, can't say. At around $!0K for a long block engine, plus installation for replacing a prematurely worn engine, I am going to use what the mfg recommends. Just limited choice by the motor oil companies who don't want to pay a bunch of money for the testing and certifications to meet the FE+ specs. Which FE stands for fuel economy. Check out Bob the Oil Guy site and others have discussed this at length. You buy a premium car for the engineering, brand appreciation, and type of use of the vehicle. Why quibble about the cost of maintenance. If you want to keep the car in great condition isn't the cost of oil maintenance using spec oil worth it?

 

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united...-supplier.html


https://www.ebay.com/itm/294981130492

 

FWIW
The Castrol Edge Engine Oil - LL 17 FE+ - 0W-20 is available at your local New York state Advance Auto store. Appears to be cheaper than E-Bay and save the shipping cost also.

 

Link?
I dont see it. Looking in Brooklyn.

 

well................. I think I goofed, the Castrol Edge Engine Oil they have is not the Euro version
Sorry

 

Some info here, sgcomps posted up the info. MINI liked to change things up for the 2014+, MINI also changed the filter on the 2020+ https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/11428593186/ its made by Mann https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/11428593186/ Hengst is good also as they are OEM for select engine BMW filters.

I have run hengst on my MINI and Range Rovers

On my R52 and R58 I have ran the genuine MINI 5w-30 while under warranty and liqui moly molygen 5w-40 with no issues. I have almost 300k on the r52. I am rebuilding the suspension and cleaning up a ton a rust from driving year round. That's most of the issues. Oil change frequency and keeping up on maintenance has been the key to its life, if you pull the valve cover on my R52 and my R58 you will see it looks clean with very little cam wear (looks normal) . The R52 w10 w11 engine tend to run longer till the engine oil gets dark while on my R58 n14 the engine oil gets dark pretty quickly. I do changes at 5-7k on both. Not the 10-15k MINI was recommending back in the day. Oil is cheap maintenance compared to like rebuilding part of your car all the time.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...questions.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...cedures-7.html

 

I've never been a fan of Castro, which was the main reason that I went with Mobil1. But if there's a Liqui-Moly that actually is approved, I'll go with that. Thanks everyone.

 

Reasoning?

 

A couple more nuggets to include in your oil selection calculus: any of the "FE"-approved oils are Fuel Efficiency rated. Fuel Efficiency is one aspect of oil characteristics, but, that has nothing to do with minimum oil film thickness (MOFT), which is really more important concerning wear....the HTHS (high temp high stress) measurement value is much more important, and FE approval oils are in the lower ranges of HTHS. The older BMW LL01 and LL04 approved oils didn't have the FE part. The LL indicates Long Life, meaning that oil has buffers that are designed to battle acids, and detergents to fight soot (mostly), so that the oil lasts for longer service intervals. If you are one of the 5000-7000 mile oil change interval types, that doesn't care about squeezing the last 0.5 mpg fuel efficiency from the oil you use, and, aren't under warranty, there are other ways to evaluate oil. One of them, the Porsche C30 or (even better regarding HTHS) C40 approvals, are robust, so are MB 229.51 or 229.52, VW 504 or 507, and API SN+ or SP are important for Low Speed Premature Ignition resistance (they have lower Calcium...which is a detergent that contributes to LSPI events). The particulate filter in the exhaust is also a concern, so the "SAPS" level should be considered...you want low- or mid-SAPS oils, not full SAPS if you are concerned about clogging up the particulate filter in the exhaust. There are some really good oils that would work fine, especially if you ignore the "FE" part. If you don't push the engine really hard, all those FE and FE+ oils will protect fine for the life of your car, don't let me cause you to think otherwise. BUT, no matter what oil, I'm not going 10,000 miles between changes...that will probably be fine for 100,000 miles or so. I'd hope to run my engine much farther than that.

 

Changed my oil with Liqui-Molly a couple of days ago. I don't like that the cap was rip away (but I learned for next time to force it to uncap). I try to reuse the bottles to transport my used oil to dispose of. Otherwise, everything was okay.

I am still annoyed by the lack of dipstick. I've only driven it short drives and likely won't get a good check until I drive to work. I'm sure it's fine (measured what I poured in), but it seems an odd system that you can only check your oil level after you drive significantly. Hopefully it'll warn you if you are off by significant amounts without the measuring check?

Who's a fan of Fidel Castro? I don't really know if I have a good reason to not liking Castrol. I've just used certain oil brands on my cars.

 

Ive doen a few oil changes on mine. 5.25 its always correct. With filter change.

 

Thanks,
I had 5.45 quarts as the amount (not sure from where honestly) so I combined two containers. The reading had it as at the max point of the oil level (just under the max line). If 5.25 works, I'll just use one container next time.

 

Hey ​​​​@Davevolved appreciate this post of yours, thx much for the detail. FYI in re MINI brand 0W-20 only meeting LL-FE14+ spec, the back label of the 1L MINI 0W-20 bottle I have left over from a March 2022 purchase from Outmotoring says it meets LL-FE17+. FYI.

That said I am also using the Liquid Moly Top Tec 660 0W-20, meeting LL-FE17+ spec, at this point.

 

@Mini-Titan Thanks for your post. I’ve been looking for an oil for my 2019 JCW for when I run on the track (not a fan of the Castrol from experience with my R56). LL and FE are of no concern as the oil gets changed after a few track days. But I want something that stands up to the stress and heat that doing this can cause and I wanted to go up one weight from the recommended 0-20W.

Based on your suggestion: I am thinking of going to the LIQUI MOL Top Tec 4200 or 4210 (5-30W or 0-30W). The specs covered are:
ACEA C3, API SP, BMW Longlife-04, MB-Approval 229.31/229.51/229.52, Opel OV 040 1547 - G30 / OV 040 1547 - D30, Porsche C30, VW 504 00/507 00

Unless I missed something, these 2 oils should be good for my use. Any thoughts?