Hello!

I have a big problem with the catcams 469 profile camshaft on my facelift R53 and I want your opinion and help!

So to start with my mods are:

-17% reduced pulley
-Ported and polished cylinder head
-Catcams 469 profile camshaft
-Orranje stealth intake with K&N Air filter
-Bypass valve stronger spring
-Supersprint 4-2-1 header with 100cps free flow catalyst and resonated JCW exhaust (63.5mm)
-550cc Bosch injectors
-Pro alloy motorsport intercooler
-bkr8eix sparkplugs

The car came out from engine rebuild and everything is new! We checked the car for air leaks, tmap and map sensors, oxygen sensor, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, spark plugs, blocked cat, spark plugs wires, coil pack.. Everything! The cars header-manifold glowing with the stock map but also with the tuned map and hesitates- stalls when starting to move in first gear when you are in positive low boost. If you try to start gently with vacuum its starts to move nice! The hesitation occurs when the cars water temp is below 70 degrees. When is hot it's just only glowing the manifold. We set the 469 timming on tdc like the OEM camshaft. Now we tried to retard the timing one tooth. The car now with the Oem injectors(320cc) runs fine and starts moving fine but still slightly glowing red the manifold (not like before we changed the timing).

No we are waiting to tune again the car and see how its going! One thing that you have to know is that the car when tuned with this setup and the tdc oem timing managed to make 247 crank hp but with the symptoms that I referred above..

Do you believe that an adjustable camshaft sprocket will give a solution to our problem or is there something else that we have to check for??

 

While I personally am a fan of the ACG, I don't think it will actually fix your problem.

I got lucky and had one of those ECU's that just didn't like aftermarket Cams (esp at low RPM, idle, or going from cruise to idle) this sounds like a very similar problem.

I ended up having to go with the upgraded VDO ECU and spending a full day tuning on the dyno to get rid of the problem.

What is your rev limit? And what RPM range are you using the car? (Low to Mid for street and canyon carving or mid to high for the track) The reason I ask is that you may just consider going back to the stock Cam, if nothing else as an experiment to see if your troubles subside.
Honestly of you're not running much over a 6900 RPM rev limit, and/or living between 4000-7000, I would consider an ACG and the stock Cam, but that's just me, since I'm a fan of the ACG. Truthfully it's not a very popular opinion, but it has worked very well for me in the past.

Good Luck.

 

VE tables need a lot of work with that cam it has overlap at low rpm, probably from 400-2500 rpm or it will stall and fall on its face when you tip in the throttle more than about 15 %.

Who is tuning the car for you?

 

Hello and thanks for the reply! My car has a facelift bosch ecu MS5150! Before the tune we have also updated the ecu to its latest software update from MINI-BMW! My rev limit is 7300rpm and the car is most driven on twisty roads and I have not intention to track it but I want to have a good power and torque curve!

 

Hello! I am living to Greece so first time I went to a local tuner who told me in the end that he cant tune my car and gave me my money back! Now my tuner and friend 'C.m.e. motoring art' located in Cyprus tuning my car but we haven't finished yet as we are still trying to make the car run remotely due to coronavirus situation!
I have been in a friends car with this cam but without ported head, the rest of the mods was the same and he didn't required to retard the timing in order to make the car work, also he didn't have any hesitation and stalling at all! The only thing that told me is that he put the cam with the old timing chain and maybe gave him a few degrees of retardation on the timing! Ive heard for this cam stall issues but my car's hesitation-stall was too much when I was trying to start from stand still..

 

it's the ve tables, you'll need to find a tuner that knows how to refactor the VE tables with the new cam, low rpm will need a lot of work! I have done it but only to my own car I dont tune others. You could try nastase adrian

what I found with my ph3 (LOTS Of overlap r50 cam) I had to reduce the VE values at vacuum quite a bit as the cam does not scavenge at all. And increase the VE quite a bit when it's making boost or it would spike lean when I tip in the throttle more than a small amount.

Still terribly cold blooded but it no longer stalls, spits and sputters 99 % of the time. It will always need good throttle & clutch control as it's a high rpm cam

 

I have an adjustable cam gear that Nastase sent me. I have been wanting to install but just have not had the time to tear into it..

 

Is there any chance selling it? I am interested!

 

Hello guys again!

Today i've tried new test base file that my tuner send us and this is the log from cold start until I saw the manifold again glowing red... As I understood right after a conversation with my tuner the car has negative spark timing advance when idling and this is causing many problems.. Engine load is 60-65% and throttle body opening about 5-7 degrees on idle! Short fuel trims are negative 20-25%.. Now we tracking down again the problem!

If anyone has any thoughts on the situation it will be very helpfull for me!

I am uploading for you to see a log from cold start and only idling!

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AhWnF_99c31kkIte...j0SRg?e=y9n9aV

 

No, I will install it soon as I get my ported plenum back from powder coating.