I recently had the front end of my bone stock 200HP JCW in the service position for unrelated work and figured I throw in a DT BPV for ***** an giggles. I've heard nothing but good things about them.
I can honestly say I'm completely underwhelmed by it. Maybe the throttle is a little snappier, but very subtle at best. Are these things better suited for non-JCW engines? IDK.

 

it's mainly to prevent the yo-yo effect of being in low boost. The BPV will flutter at certain RPM range, causing the car to feel like it's intermittently loosing power. I've heard some cars are more affected than others. I know mine does it, (03 JCW) it's kinda annoying if you ask me.

 

best suited for modified engines , mine when installed made a HUGE change . But I got bvh,cam all bolt ons ect befor I finally put mine on..

 

I also was not impressed with the DT BPV... and it still seemed like it yo-yo'd afterwards on occasion ..

 

Don't see why your expecting so much from just changing a bpv...
what are yours guys modifications? You can't expect just a bpv to really add alot of performance do you? It could if your factory one was ****.
NOT throwing flame but just saying there's alotta things that factor in.
My factory bpv was old but still fully functional and after I built my engine I Fiiiiiiiiinaly for ***** n giggles threw on the dt bpv and it REALLY helped my engine come on to boost much much faster. It's literally 0-16psi in a snap of a finger now where as with my old stock one it took muuuuch longer befor it got into full boost.. so imo that's what it does, it doesn't go and add power or tq it just kinda changes where that power comes on.
if you dobt knowtice even the slightest bit of change, compare it to ur stock and make sure it's return spring IS stiffer and 2x check to make sure the butterfly fully closes making a full seal and fully opens then too. It may need a slight adjustment though there sapose to be prior to shipping but **** gets over looked alot .
compare it to sparkplugs.. yea, you'll see gains over old crap plugs when installing new better ones. But you can't go n throw in 2 step colder brisk plugs expecting them to be beneficial and give gains on a stock or relatively stock engine. But those brisk plugs WILL do more once a pulley,head n cam have been added in... you feel me ?
buuuuuuut does a dt bpv justify the price ? Hard to say , though it helped my car decent amount it does have minor minor yoyo but noooooothing like befor.. maybe if it was abit cheaper though, it is kinda pricey..

 

I wasn't expecting much - just a snappier throttle response - which it doesn't.
My car never really yo-yo'd much. Ocasionally I'd get a quick one when letting off the throttle. With the DT BPV it actually seems a little worse now.
FWIW, I took a close look at my stock BPV and it closes super tight. So, maybe that's where the DT improves throttle repsonse, when your stock BPV is leaky.

 

My expectation was it would close at 6" of intake vacuum, it did not do that (I checked) and its probably because it is not monitoring vacuum off the intake. Prior to the install I'd never felt the yo-yo effect mentioned here at NAM. Now after getting the motor dialed in better, meaning its performing more in line with expected, (latest change came after the sea foam fog), now I feel that yo-yo effect and it is irritating. I will probably toss in a vacuum switch and switch 2 vacuum sources to that valve, one an "eco" mode where its always got vacuum & the other off the intake manifold.

 

I purchased my 06 R53 3 years ago and encountered significant yo-yo'ing. Installed the Detroit BPV and it helped a tiny bit. Ultimately, I had to replace a bunch of parts and was able to completely eliminate the yo-yo. If you have a boost gauge, I believe you'd then be able to see the difference of the DT BPV over the stock unit. There is a difference. On a stock setup, it will not give you the same noticeable experience as a CAI or pulley.

 

I used the Torque App & Scantool.net MX bluetooth tools to monitor mine.

 

there's a mod where people run the bpv off a different vacuum source , I forget it's name and what it's called buy in your case it's worth trying.. if I remember correctly you tap into the airline under the intercooler or just tap off your boost gauge line as that is sapose to come from that source too.
My stock bpv functioned like I stated above BUT STILL my car felt sooooo much better with it tied shut ALL THE time BUT it was generating extra heat though not too much I didn't wanna strain my rebuilt sc or anything if I didn't need to as that's a temp fix I've been told. But man , it ran better than it ever did with the bpv tied shut all the time, even better than with the dt bpv

 

yeah that taps off the FPR and goes directly to the BPV... VGS mod????

I also tied mine shut but it thru a code so it was for testing only. I did do the bandaid on it and added a couple of springs to help it close and ran that for a bit until the replacement bpv went in. The ECO mode would keep the bpv open until disabled. might be good for slick conditions & should help mpg's

EDIT: I already have a T & vacuum line installed to do the seafoam install so moving it over at the end should be easy.

 

It's a BOV...what did you expect it to do? It closes a little faster than the OEM BOV....that's about all it's good for.

 

Yup, and there's no perceivable difference in how quickly it's closing. That's the whole point of my OP.

 

It closes faster as in under less load/more vacuum. The spring is stiffer than the stock one....so you can't deny that aspect of it. But other than that....it's just a BPV. I think it's a big improvement over a stock one that's worn out, not closing fully, or has a broken spring. It does get rid of some of that yo-yo action also.

 

do you have a boost gauge ? Scan Guage doesn't count as they relay info wayyy to slow to be of any use imo. But I could CLEARLY see I made full boost muuuuch sooner in the rpm range. Not that it felt any more powerful, just got iiiiiiiinto that full power much quicker , that's all they're sapose to do.. its not a power adding mod.

 

If your seeing full boost much sooner in the rpm range then it is giving you max power vs rpm. Forget peaks, look at what it does under the curve.

When I tune the ram (diesel) I pay a lot of attention to timing and fueling below 2000 rpms since thats where my engine lives day in and day out. My goal there has always been the daily driving experience with the goal to get as much bottom end torque as I could w/o added fuel. For me this equaled excellent mpg's. Since I dont tow with it and it rarely sees a heavy load in the bed (500~600# max), the upper rpms and high load conditions dont get much attention.

With mine (mini) now behaving correctly (minus the newly discovered exhaust leak), I plan to look into keeping boost off on demand for cruising purposes via a switch on the dash and maybe a momentary switch on the back of the steering wheel for the OS moments. (live in the Seattle area so there are more than you would think, most here only know how to operate a vehicle but dont know how to drive so that OS switch would come in handy)

Before I get there though I will do the VGS (?) mod to the BPV to see the cause & effect of the change.

 

I think you're missing my point. I didn't install this to get more power or to watch a boost gauge needle swing more quickly. I did it to get a snappier throttle. DT's website says "...quicker throttle response and transitions." It just doesn't do that for me. That's my complaint.

 

What other parts did you replace to eliminate the yo-yo?

 

I’ve had it for a year and it’s past annoying!

 

Marketing.

Technically, a stock BVP in good working order will close and build boost just as fast as the DT BVP when you slam the pedal down to the floor, the engine loses vacuum, and the spring in the BPV slams the valve closed.

Now at part throttle, the DT BPV will close before the stock on, since it's got the larger spring in it.

 

Save yourselves some money and try this "next to free" mod of the BPV. I also drove around with the VGS mod, but the ride became harsh, so I reverted. The BPV diaphragm will need to handle -0.8 bar - 1.0 (depends on car) bar, instead of -0.8 bar - 0 bar, when the BPV actuator is correctly connected. This will have impact on longevity of the BPV, but might not be a concern for everyone.

My mod
Using 2 washers, I was able to add pretension to the spring, effectively making it a tad stronger, which is probably similar to the expensive "tuned" BPVs out there.

Documented well in my build thread here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4545949




Like a gloveeeeee (Ace Ventura anyone)

 

Nice guess but incorrect.....
1) Your BPV will not last long with that mod
2) DT actually relaced the entire spring among other modifications.

To date, unlike the OEM BPV, DT's has never had one of their BPV's wear out where as new one needed to be purchased by the owner.

I had 200,000 miles on mine, installed back in 2009 and was working perfectly upon removal this year. I only replaced it because I was replacing it's gasket and I'm excessively orderly having the $$$ and like shiny new parts They even tried to talk me out of buying a new one but I enjoy spoiling my R53.

Unfortunately your "spacer mod" is placing more tension on a original spring now required to work with more load than was designed by engineers. Your OEM weaker spring with more tension equates to it working harder with longevity of the part as a sacrafice.

Always been my philosophy not to over think a project, especially while someone else has already blazed a path providing one with time to do the things which really matter and make a difference. Especially true when the parts already affordable....

From DT website: The Detroit Tuned Bypass Valve " is a re-worked new OEM valve that is modified by Detroit Tuned to eliminate the "Yo-Yo" in the MINI Cooper S's, the yo-yo was more prevalent for the early 2002-2004 cars but could happen in any of the years. What is the "Yo-Yo" effect? It's the opening and closing of the valve around 2500 rpm's so that it feels like your stepping on and off the gas, but you're not. So we added a stronger spring to overcome the vacuum condition that it sees so that it will not open as soon or as much. Our BPV closes at 6" of vacuum, as opposed to the factory value of 0" of vacuum. MINI tired to fix the problem in the 2005-2006 cars with a ECU tweak but it never really worked correctly for a lot of cars. This was the main reason our BPV was created, but there are a lot of benefits, read on!

The DT BPV uses a stiffer return spring, resulting in quicker boost generation, and thus quicker throttle response and transitions. Most cars see about 1psi total more boost @ redline. The butterfly assembly is also adjusted as much as possible to close fully, allowing for maximum boost. This is done by centering of the butterfly door and adjustment of the set screw that sets the openness of the butterfly. Perfect for the aggressive driver or racer. It is possible to see a very minor loss in fuel economy, but you will see a great improvement in throttle resolution and smoothness."