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R56 Adding forge bov to aem cai with Bosch dual boost

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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 09:13 PM
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Adding forge bov to aem cai with Bosch dual boost

I just installed the aem cai on my r56. I want to install the forge bov but the problem is the aem intake box is bigger than the stock and it won’t allow me to install the forge bov tap to the map since the aem intake box is blocking it.

I was reading some forums and came across the Bosch dual tap. Most are using this with an oil catch can but I want to know if I can use it as a source for the forge boost. I am new to modding and the cai is my very first mod. I’m also new to this forum :P Any help/advice is appreciated. Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by venk4t
I just installed the aem cai on my r56. I want to install the forge bov but the problem is the aem intake box is bigger than the stock and it won’t allow me to install the forge bov tap to the map since the aem intake box is blocking it.

I was reading some forums and came across the Bosch dual tap. Most are using this with an oil catch can but I want to know if I can use it as a source for the forge boost. I am new to modding and the cai is my very first mod. I’m also new to this forum :P Any help/advice is appreciated. Thanks!
if you take the AEM box out, then do the map sensors boost tap, run your hose around, then put the AEM box back in.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 04:13 AM
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I have an AEM system on my car, and I have a manifold boost tap for my boost gauge. I have no interference. As mentioned, to install the boost tap on the manifold, you will have to remove the air box. This would be true even with the stock air box.

Alternately, if you haven't purchased the forge valve yet, would be to get the N18 version, which using a tee from the vacuum pump line. Should work just as intended on the N14 engine. Since the Forge valve still uses the OEM solenoid controls, the vacuum source is only used for opening the valve when commanded.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 04:22 AM
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You will find with these cars that there are a bunch of mods that are going to be easier done while doing another. Doing the forge and the intake at the same time are one of them, but while you have the air box out, might as well do the noise maker delete since you have everything out. When doing the intercooler it is easier to do the turbo muffler delete, since you are already there.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 08:31 AM
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Aem cai intake fitting issues with forge bov

I think I didn’t explain the situation properly. Read the following posted by another user. This is what I am worried about.

——————————————————————-
I have the former. It makes no dump valve noise which is what you get with the latter.


Mine was fitted by Forge here in the UK when they borrowed my car to test fit and document fitting. Benn running it for a while with no problems and it is very smooth.


Went to Evolve here in the UK for a remap and my car was not making boost over 3k revs. Turns out Forge put on a valve with only 1 connector not 2 so they had to send me a new one. I was obviously not pushing my car above 3k revs to notice driving mostly motorway but now the car flies when I want it to.


Since fitted the AEM intake and find the Forge valve not compatible.


The fitment issue stems from the intake manifold tap in for the vacuum hose. This fouls the AEM airbox which must be larger or deeper than the OEM one. So had to go back to standard diverter and sell my Forge one. Shame as the standard one is very off/on in actuation where as the Forge just smooths out delivery.


I have heard some people grinding the AEM inbox to allow the boost tap to clear. I may do that.

——————————————————————-
 
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by njaremka
I have an AEM system on my car, and I have a manifold boost tap for my boost gauge. I have no interference. As mentioned, to install the boost tap on the manifold, you will have to remove the air box. This would be true even with the stock air box.

Alternately, if you haven't purchased the forge valve yet, would be to get the N18 version, which using a tee from the vacuum pump line. Should work just as intended on the N14 engine. Since the Forge valve still uses the OEM solenoid controls, the vacuum source is only used for opening the valve when commanded.
which aem intake do you have? The one with the functional hood scoop too? Here’s the link so we can confirm we have the same one.

https://throtl.com/products/aem-cold...SABEgKKrfD_BwE
 
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by venk4t
which aem intake do you have? The one with the functional hood scoop too? Here’s the link so we can confirm we have the same one.

https://throtl.com/products/aem-cold...SABEgKKrfD_BwE
I’m pretty sure I just watch a few YouTube videos where they had the AEM and forge. If you already have the parts your looking at a couple of hours of installing, testing, and worse case removal of forge. I’m pretty sure I did my forgery spacer and Alta boost spring in 30 minutes.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by venk4t
which aem intake do you have? The one with the functional hood scoop too? Here’s the link so we can confirm we have the same one.

https://throtl.com/products/aem-cold...SABEgKKrfD_BwE
and from some of his other post, helping me with my intake and hood scoop, I am almost certain he does have that one.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason Cornelius
I’m pretty sure I just watch a few YouTube videos where they had the AEM and forge. If you already have the parts your looking at a couple of hours of installing, testing, and worse case removal of forge. I’m pretty sure I did my forgery spacer and Alta boost spring in 30 minutes.

I just want to make sure before I order it cause returns are a pain. Also, this is the one I plan in getting.

https://www.vividracing.com/-p-14591...yABEgIDL_D_BwE

Model #FMDVR56A

Some people said they got a CEL while others said they didn’t.

 
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by venk4t
I just want to make sure before I order it cause returns are a pain. Also, this is the one I plan in getting.

https://www.vividracing.com/-p-14591...yABEgIDL_D_BwE

Model #FMDVR56A

Some people said they got a CEL while others said they didn’t.
That is the N14 valve.

I have an N18 Cooper S, and have this one:
https://www.forgemotorsport.com/Reci...duct--783.html
 
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by njaremka
That is the N14 valve.

I have an N18 Cooper S, and have this one:
https://www.forgemotorsport.com/Reci...duct--783.html

I ordered the bov (N14) last week and it’s coming tomorrow. I saw another guy on YouTube with an r56 have the same aem intake I have and the bov so I felt good and ordered it.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by venk4t
I ordered the bov (N14) last week and it’s coming tomorrow. I saw another guy on YouTube with an r56 have the same aem intake I have and the bov so I felt good and ordered it.
just take your time and you should be good. If you haven’t done the noise maker delete, it would be a good mod todo while you have the air box out.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason Cornelius
just take your time and you should be good. If you haven’t done the noise maker delete, it would be a good mod todo while you have the air box out.
yea I will be doing it slow and steady. I just hope everything fits well. Just a little worried about the air box not having enough clearance on the bottom for the boost tap but I am hopeful after seeing that one video it will be fine. I like the noise in the cabin. What are the benefits of removing it?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by venk4t
yea I will be doing it slow and steady. I just hope everything fits well. Just a little worried about the air box not having enough clearance on the bottom for the boost tap but I am hopeful after seeing that one video it will be fine. I like the noise in the cabin. What are the benefits of removing it?
typically about 1.5 lbs of boost. Turbo muffler delete has allowed it to spoil a bit faster, noise maker delete adds the boost back lost from the t. Before the mods I was at 13.5 to 14 lbs now I see 15.5 to 16lbs of boost.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2020 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason Cornelius
typically about 1.5 lbs of boost. Turbo muffler delete has allowed it to spoil a bit faster, noise maker delete adds the boost back lost from the t. Before the mods I was at 13.5 to 14 lbs now I see 15.5 to 16lbs of boost.
okay I will look into it. I’ll probably do the bov first and see how it goes. I don’t want to overcrowd myself and mess up. I’ll do that mod after this.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 04:23 AM
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Installed forge bov!

So I finally got to install the forge bov yesterday. The part I was worried about with the aem air box having space issues with the boost tap was correct. The box isn’t flush in the grommets but I was able to get it in the front two grommets (the screw and front right grommet). But it feels secure and isn’t moving.

Installing the bov was very straightforward but removing those bolts was a pain in the butt. I legging spent 30 min removing 3 bolts and another 30 putting them back on. However, I got everything on and it works. I got some loud blow offs and it’s very nice.

I have a question regarding the bov orientation. On the video I saw the guy said the main tube on the bov body points down so that’s how I put it. But they have the other tube point up. I have both pointing down because that’s how it came in the box. Also, after that guy installed it he revved up the engine a few times and you can hear the bov but when I revved it up I didn’t hear much. I only hear it when I drive. Does this have something to do with the bov orientation? Should I put the outer tube pointing up? If so how to turn the outer side up so the forge logo is facing right side up instead of upside down?

heres a link to the video: watch from 3:30

——————————————————————-
this guy also has the outer tube facing up and his revs are similar to the guy on top:

 

Last edited by venk4t; Aug 5, 2020 at 04:29 AM.
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 05:39 AM
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I’m pretty sure that these only install the one way. I know it looks like a triangle, but those bolt holes only line up one way. As for the sound while parked, you probably are bringing into boost or high enough in the rpm band, but honestly what is the point of sitting there bouncing off of the rev limiter?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason Cornelius
I’m pretty sure that these only install the one way. I know it looks like a triangle, but those bolt holes only line up one way. As for the sound while parked, you probably are bringing into boost or high enough in the rpm band, but honestly what is the point of sitting there bouncing off of the rev limiter?
lol. Yea I think I installed it the right way but I don’t know if changing the orientation of the outer tube makes a difference. But so far I’m in love with the sound it’s so addicting.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 06:15 AM
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My set up so far

What I’ve done so far...



All that’s left to do is change the downpipe to the cnt racing high flow catted downpipe and add the 3” Alta exhaust or borla s type exhaust. Then I’ll change the rims and tires. Everything I’ve done so far I did myself but I’ll probably have to go to the shop to get the DP and exhaust installed.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 06:17 AM
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I have just the spacer, and I’m pretty sure when installing it the 3 holes only lined up the one way. Taking the hidden bolt out first then the other 2, then on reinstall do the top, but don’t tighten all the way, then the hidden one. I can do the swap now in under 5 minutes.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason Cornelius
I have just the spacer, and I’m pretty sure when installing it the 3 holes only lined up the one way. Taking the hidden bolt out first then the other 2, then on reinstall do the top, but don’t tighten all the way, then the hidden one. I can do the swap now in under 5 minutes.
yea when I removed the stock valve I removed the inner one first then the bottom and then the top. Putting on the forge I went the reverse order. The space is so limited that it’s very hard to get your tool and hand in there to do work. I ended up moving the coolant reservoir a bit just to be able to access the inner bolt. Such a pain but it was worth it
 
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by venk4t
What I’ve done so far...



All that’s left to do is change the downpipe to the cnt racing high flow catted downpipe and add the 3” Alta exhaust or borla s type exhaust. Then I’ll change the rims and tires. Everything I’ve done so far I did myself but I’ll probably have to go to the shop to get the DP and exhaust installed.
watch that heat shield and your valve cover. There are post where they have melted and got on fire. Honesty I think, and I could be way wrong, but that plastic cover that covers the bottom of the spark plug boots, right underneath your heat shield, if you are not careful with filling up oil, oil can collect under there, the wires are wrapped with a tape that does soak it up a little, and the heat gets trapped there. I have had the wind shift on me when topping off and it just causes me an hour or so making sure I have it all cleaned up. I don’t know who made my heat shield, came on the car, but it doesn’t cover the valve cover as much, and I don’t see any signs of it getting too hot.


Air box has been cleaned out after I took these
 
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason Cornelius
watch that heat shield and your valve cover. There are post where they have melted and got on fire. Honesty I think, and I could be way wrong, but that plastic cover that covers the bottom of the spark plug boots, right underneath your heat shield, if you are not careful with filling up oil, oil can collect under there, the wires are wrapped with a tape that does soak it up a little, and the heat gets trapped there. I have had the wind shift on me when topping off and it just causes me an hour or so making sure I have it all cleaned up. I don’t know who made my heat shield, came on the car, but it doesn’t cover the valve cover as much, and I don’t see any signs of it getting too hot.


Air box has been cleaned out after I took these

I check my oil level at a minimum of once per week or more depending on my drive. My mini loves to drink oil so I’m always on top of it. I have the craven speed dipstick which is freaking amazing. It’s got 10 holes and if your low on oil the holes will be empty. I always keep it 10/10 and add some of it’s down one. You should get one it makes checking your oil a breeze. I also use a funnel every time I fill up to avoid spills and I do in my garage so wind doesn’t sneak up on me. After tipping off the oil or doing my weekly check I always clean off the engine bay and never let any gunk accumulate. The heat shield is very easy to remove so I occasionally remove it and check to make sure everything’s good underneath. I also remove that plastic cover and check the wires and what not to make sure they’re ok. I’m pretty much on top of oil and all other fluids. I also change the oil every 3k miles and use 5w30. I wasn’t always like this. I learned the hard way by blowing up one of the cylinders because there was little to no oil a few years ago. Since then I’ve basically go into a rhythm of babying my car and keeping strict maintenance/servicing intervals along with having it in peak condition at all times.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by venk4t
I check my oil level at a minimum of once per week or more depending on my drive. My mini loves to drink oil so I’m always on top of it. I have the craven speed dipstick which is freaking amazing. It’s got 10 holes and if your low on oil the holes will be empty. I always keep it 10/10 and add some of it’s down one. You should get one it makes checking your oil a breeze. I also use a funnel every time I fill up to avoid spills and I do in my garage so wind doesn’t sneak up on me. After tipping off the oil or doing my weekly check I always clean off the engine bay and never let any gunk accumulate. The heat shield is very easy to remove so I occasionally remove it and check to make sure everything’s good underneath. I also remove that plastic cover and check the wires and what not to make sure they’re ok. I’m pretty much on top of oil and all other fluids. I also change the oil every 3k miles and use 5w30. I wasn’t always like this. I learned the hard way by blowing up one of the cylinders because there was little to no oil a few years ago. Since then I’ve basically go into a rhythm of babying my car and keeping strict maintenance/servicing intervals along with having it in peak condition at all times.
I’m glad to see I’m not the only one that is this @nal. I did a wipe down yesterday to prep for my Dragon trip on Thursday. Under the hood to make sure all is well. Pulled covers off to clean and make sure it’s dry. I just picked up this new dipstick and it’s easier than the stock one was, plus my stock one was missing the tip. I might take her out for a joy ride at 5 am so got to keep her in tip top shape.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2020 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason Cornelius
I’m glad to see I’m not the only one that is this @nal. I did a wipe down yesterday to prep for my Dragon trip on Thursday. Under the hood to make sure all is well. Pulled covers off to clean and make sure it’s dry. I just picked up this new dipstick and it’s easier than the stock one was, plus my stock one was missing the tip. I might take her out for a joy ride at 5 am so got to keep her in tip top shape.

haha nice! You can never over do regular maintenance, especially on the mini! Yea the weathers really nice today I’m about to go for a joy drive lol. It’s like no matter how much or long I drive I just wanna keep doing it you know. Like yesterday I drove around for an hour and I still wasn’t satisfied. It’s just a feeling I can’t explain. Have fun and be safe bro
 
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