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w washer & or headlight washer tank removal/ Install
I bought a headlight washer tank from the junk yard and I want to use it to make an external intercooler sprayer. I've searched but cant find a write up on how to install it in the fender well . Can someone point me in the right direction
It's a mod for next no no gain...I tested a ic sprayer with a alcohol/water mix and atleast on my setup would only lower iat faster . I think it may might have helped as with it my iat got within 4 degrees of ambient temp but I avg 9 degrees above asis and even haaaaard pulls only ever see like 15-20degrees over.
it cooooould be effective if run in conjunction with an rpm switch which would trigger it automatically when ever you got above say like 5k rpm and would continually spray until the rpms dropped again..
I'm in so fla and usually run about 20 above ambient . Even if I only get a few degrees it's fun to do ...love tinkering with things . Years ago I used a pressure sw to trigger an IC sprayer on my STI .I'll probably test it with a push button or switch first to see how well it works. .
I found a good write up on building a water/meth injection system . Looks like about 200 or so for the parts. Maybe down the road ...
Next I'm toying with the idea of useing rattle cans to paint the mini . I did it on my truck and it came out great ...as long as you use flat or semigloss and prep it well . I'm really good with a spray can ...many years of practice
It's a mod for next no no gain...I tested a ic sprayer with a alcohol/water mix and atleast on my setup would only lower iat faster . I think it may might have helped as with it my iat got within 4 degrees of ambient temp but I avg 9 degrees above asis and even haaaaard pulls only ever see like 15-20degrees over.
How are you keeping it so low ?
it cooooould be effective if run in conjunction with an rpm switch which would trigger it automatically when ever you got above say like 5k rpm and would continually spray until the rpms dropped again..
On a JCW you could probably use the airbox flap control circuit. The flap opens at 4500 rpm.
Let us know what kind of difference you see with it. I have headlight washers on my car, but I have disabled them (pulled the relay) as they're basically useless. Would be cool to put the system in somekind of use.
On a JCW you could probably use the airbox flap control circuit. The flap opens at 4500 rpm.
Let us know what kind of difference you see with it. I have headlight washers on my car, but I have disabled them (pulled the relay) as they're basically useless. Would be cool to put the system in somekind of use.
Installed the tank. Relay and switch tomorrow also the nozzles should be here
Sweet , you should if you have the time make a thread about the process. I never use my rear window sprayer so I would divert it with an rpm switch for an ic sprayer too . Imo any little bit helps. A little here a little there adds up.
Since it's the evaporation that cools things once it's set up I'm going to test possibly pulsing the spray at different intervals instead of a continuous flow . Easy to do if I use a push button switch . Then after testing the best process I'll figure out how to trigger it
I had an i/c spray back in the day on my 1986 Saab 900 Turbo and it was noticeably effective.
It was simply activated via vacuum and set to a certain boost level.
The water did pool and collect in body cavities though, dunno if I'd want that on my R53 with topmount i/c due to rust and corrosion concerns --- whatever type of metal they used for many of the cast parts seems to be extremely susceptible to corrosive oxidation for some reason.
On a top mount, all the water would trickle down...
...but that's just my quirkiness.
I think it's actually a good idea and from real-world personal experience know that it does indeed drop temps.
If I was gonna do it, I'd be tempted to go with one of these things for spray pattern coverage:
I had an i/c spray back in the day on my 1986 Saab 900 Turbo and it was noticeably effective.
It was simply activated via vacuum and set to a certain boost level.
The water did pool and collect in body cavities though, dunno if I'd want that on my R53 with topmount i/c due to rust and corrosion concerns --- whatever type of metal they used for many of the cast parts seems to be extremely susceptible to corrosive oxidation for some reason.
On a top mount, all the water would trickle down...
Good to know it actually made a difference.
About the water causing problems... there is plenty of water going in through the scoop when driving in the rain, so I'm not sure if adding a bit of mist will make much of a difference. Of course depends on the amount sprayed... pulsing the spray does sound like a good idea.
I really liked what grayraven did by covering the upper hose with insulation and adding a heat shield . Doing the same . I covered the upper and lower hose with pipe insulation from home depot and made a template for a heat shield . I'm not sure what I'm going to make it out of . It seems any metal would just heat up and defeat the purpose. I may use thin wood covered in thin heat shield like I did when I made my CAI
I got pretty much the same results as mcm did in their video.. the only reason it cooled from 48 down to 40 though was it got heat soaked and just went back down to normal operating temp , just a tad bit quicker. And to get that little drop it wouldn't be worth it trying to hit a button and steer and shift . That's why I was saying it should be run on an rpm switch or something .
