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Spark Plug Installation

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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 11:46 PM
  #1  
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tanjg
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Spark Plug Installation

I am about to install new NGK spark plugs on my 2012 Cooper S.
  1. Are these pre-gapped to factory standards for the car? If not, how can I adjust the gap without tools?
  2. Do I need to apply a little anti-seize (just a hint)?
  3. How to work with a ratchet, I don't have a torque wrench. Some good videos advised 3/4 turns without anti-seize.
Thank you!


 
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 01:03 PM
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Plugs always claim to be pre-gapped, and usually are, but it’s always a good idea to double check them. For example just the other day we had a tuning party with Mariokart and the pregapped plugs had gotten jostled around and on one guy’s car the there was actually no gap at all, they were touching the electrode. You can buy a spark plug gap tool for less than $2 at any auto parts store. I have several laying around. You can do it without a torque wrench, but unless you have exceptional feel, you don’t know how tight you are really cranking them down. You can pick up a cheap one for ten bucks at a place like harbor freight, they are good to have on hand for a number of things. Guesswork isn’t really a good idea when working on a car. If you don’t have the proper tools or know how, sometimes it’s better to have it done by a professional. But if you can get your hands on a gap tool at the very least, plugs are pretty simple. Anti-seize is always a good idea, just use it sparingly, and don’t get it all over the electrode or into the cylinder.
Good luck
 
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 07:07 PM
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isamin
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Anti-seize will melt and kill your electrodes. Gap gauges (round ones) are available for about a buck at auto part checkout counters.
ISAMIN
 
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by isamin
Anti-seize will melt and kill your electrodes. Gap gauges (round ones) are available for about a buck at auto part checkout counters.
ISAMIN
You are right, I had a brain malfunction and was just thinking of it’s use in general, and was like “of course you put it on there, watch the electrode.”.....No I do not put it on my plugs. Maybe I had the dielectric grease that comes in the coils had me confused along with a severe lack of caffeine. Lol.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 06:14 AM
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I just put new plugs in my R60. They were NOT pregapped. All different and way too big...might have been the horribly torturous ride from ECS to my house though.

No antisieze. Just do it on a cold engine.

I didnt use a torque wrench even though I have one. Its only 18 ftlbs (at least that is what I found for the R60...dont quote me).... you can easily feel them properly tighten IMO. You would NEVER get 3/4 turn of tightening after they stop easily turning. Maybe 1/20th of a turn. It isnt much at all.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2018 | 04:21 PM
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Most are pre gapped for MINI but what we find is they are off like they get in a tumble debir machine after gapped and they are off. They have that little cardboard tube but sometimes they come in from Beru and NGK direct bumped from shipping, you dont know till you open them up. I had one not bumped in the carton and the gap did not match the others. Just check them before install. Sorry they were off. We will update all our descriptions to check them and use a gap tool, thanks for the honest input.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 10:00 AM
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iwashmycar
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning
Most are pre gapped for MINI but what we find is they are off like they get in a tumble debir machine after gapped and they are off. They have that little cardboard tube but sometimes they come in from Beru and NGK direct bumped from shipping, you dont know till you open them up. I had one not bumped in the carton and the gap did not match the others. Just check them before install. Sorry they were off. We will update all our descriptions to check them and use a gap tool, thanks for the honest input.
Yeah I think Beru just made them with 0.032 or something like that, which might work for another model...I dont know. No way FedEx could have enlarged the gaps lol. They just crunched up all the packaging and they were kind of falling out of the boxes. Their fault....still worked fine.

 
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Old Sep 8, 2018 | 12:20 PM
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Stuck here with parts. I have a 13/16" magnetic swivel drive but the 12 point spark plug is 3/8". I can do either of the following:
  1. Buy an adapter -13/16" male, 3/8" female-hex or 3/8" male square.
  2. Get a spark plug extension bar which will take more time.
Is there a specific term for #1 to help with online search or where can I get it?

Thank you!
 

Last edited by tanjg; Sep 8, 2018 at 01:38 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2018 | 06:32 PM
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You need a thin wall 12 point socket for the plugs - see our forum vendors for options.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 01:19 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by squawSkiBum
You need a thin wall 12 point socket for the plugs - see our forum vendors for options.
I have the thin wall 12 point socket for the plugs, it is 14 mm. I need a matching swivel / drive for it. Here's what I have:

Amazon Amazon
(Will this even go inside the spark plug cavity, too thick?)
Amazon Amazon

This would fit in nicely but does not have a magnetic swivel :(

Amazon Amazon

Thank you!
 

Last edited by tanjg; Sep 9, 2018 at 02:19 AM.
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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 08:59 PM
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Not understanding why you think you need any sort of swivel? It's just a straight shot, the thinwall sparkplug socket plus a 3/8" extension and a ratchet handle are all that is necessary.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 05:45 AM
  #12  
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Yeah I just used a 'normal' 12pt 14mm and extensions....once it was loose my normal socket wasnt lifting the plugs out so I just simply used one of those extendable magnet things. This is also how I put the new plugs down in and started the threads.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2018 | 10:06 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by iwashmycar
Yeah I just used a 'normal' 12pt 14mm and extensions....once it was loose my normal socket wasnt lifting the plugs out so I just simply used one of those extendable magnet things. This is also how I put the new plugs down in and started the threads.
Yep! That’s all you need
 
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Old Sep 15, 2018 | 11:36 PM
  #14  
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I replaced the plugs in about 45 mins or so. Is there a possibility of a misfire even if there is no engine light?

Thank you!
 
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 06:39 AM
  #15  
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Yes. If you are getting one now...did you gap them properly?. NEVER assume they are gapped in the box.

If that is a yes, check the coils are seated in place well.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 02:10 PM
  #16  
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They came pre-gapped at 0.032", I manually adjusted them to around 0.026-0.028. Ignition coils are all in good condition. I don't sense a misfire but I just want to be sure, the OBD II engine diagnosis is all good too. I guess I am just a bit anxious. I can upload a video clip if someone can make something out of it.

Thank you!
 
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