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09 mini Cooper base r56 broken "timing chain tensioner guide"
Title edit: 09 mini Cooper base r56 broken "timing chain tensioner guide"
Hello! I hope you all are well, I'm hitting some dreaded stress.
I am changing out my valve cover gasket and vanos solenoids this weekend, unfortunately upon inspection, the [timing chain tensioner guide] appears to be broken. The timing chain is still tight, but I fear I'm going to have to have this addressed before my engine goes kaput. I'm at 99,000 miles and hoping to run my Mini as long as possible.
What do you think?
Last edited by Derrick A. Lundberg; Jun 9, 2018 at 08:39 PM.
Hopefully, someone who has some experience rebuilding these engines will chime in. I've changed my valve cover gasket, but I didn't see any obvious damage while I was in there.
Did the broken piece come off of item 9 or item 19?
Did it break off from where you have circled the image? If so, how did you find it. I'm wondering why it didn't drop down into the oil pan.
Yes, it is fortunate that it managed to make it's way into plain sight. We likely wouldn't have noticed it elsewhere. It appears to have come from part 9, I didn't get a picture of the other side of the guide channel, but it is longer than the circled spot in the second picture--
I'm thinking that it happened about 30,000 miles ago, I was trying to do the 10,000 mile oil change interval when I first got the car (at 47,000 miles), and it started running very poorly and was flipping the check engine light for over-retarded code in the 1st and 3rd (I believe) whiich is where the most oil had leaked into the spark plugs-- this gasket kit is definitely needed!
My intuition says that this small piece is likely immaterial, as it is only missing about a quarter of the whole guide rail, and that getting it out of there is going to be a good thing in and of itself.
Usually part no. 8 is the first to go. Since the engine is still running, the obvious thing to do is replacing the timing chain kit. It's about $100 and another $20 for bolts and o rings. It takes few hours to replace and you do need the locking tool.
I see my last reply is still awaiting approval, but it looks like it's form part number 9, here's a picture to show the shortness on the medial side of the guide channel.
I looked up mini special tool 11 9 590, and found this kit
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mini-Locking-Engine-Timing-Camshaft-Alignment-Repair-Set-For-BMW-N12-N14/126330427?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=5957&a did=22222222228100741628&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=2332 80486924&wl4=aud-450905586959:pla-385883167661&wl5=9019522&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl 10=114220812&wl11=online&wl12=126330427&wl13=&veh= sem
The last article I read made this sound like a very expensive and daunting process, but then again they were similtaniously trying to sell their services.
I must admit, I'm intimidated.
Alternate angle
That's piece 8, the slide rail is supposed to cover over the top of the chain 😮
I see my last couple posts have not yet passed moderatikn, but this one did so I'm going to touch on them. Yes part 9 was chipped and the piece is from that guide. The engine is back together and running as it had been before. No OBD2 reader to reset the codes yet, but hoping for the best.
Welll, it appears the guide was not the only thing broken. I tried looking for the t shaped slide rail, as I couldn't see it in place in my mind eye. Turns out, it was there-- but broken and rubbing against the timing sprockets --got that out of there, it's clearly been worn down and I'm certain this had been a disaster waiting to happen
How difficult is the timing chain kit replacement? The tools look to be about $35 and sounds like kit is 100+20. I'm honestly intimidated, how difficult is the process? I have a bently manual so theoretically I have the instructions to do it
Last edited by Derrick A. Lundberg; Jun 10, 2018 at 01:33 PM.
Reason: Other posts still not up
So, no.8 broke and caused no.9 to be damaged. I dont think it's a good idea to drive the car for too long.
I takes me few hours to do it with slow pace. I take off the engine mount completely and the hood latch metal trim to get access to the belt tensioner. I also remove the charge pipe. you will have to fine spare to remove the water pump transfer wheel to gain access to the bottom rail bolt. you also need a torque wrench.
