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Hoping to get some sensible advice. I am a huge fan of Mini's (always have been) but never pulled the trigger on one because it never made sense. So browsing classifieds locally and there is a 2010 listed for sale and I would do it as a second car in this case so I am considering it.
Pepper White MCS manual
66k
On its second owner
Does not run, owner says engine is dead and has no compression (according to dealer, no data on compression across cylinders)
Here is what I get from my visit with the owner.
Oil light was coming on several times within a 2-3 week span. They also mentioned jerking while driving which was the reason for the initial visit. Multiple visits to the dealer (saw the paperwork) where they said there was "no oil" in the car. The dealer did:
Tensioner replacement
Walnut blasted intake
Owner showed me an oil change receipt about 2 weeks before the car finally stopped. Apparently there was some smoking and it died while driving which is what worries me most. They had the car at the dealer about 5 times within 6 weeks for the oil issue. Car has not run again since the last failure. The invoice from the dealer suggested engine failure and noted overheating and no compression but owner did not mention warning lights prior to the failure (could be lying of course). If it didn't run I assume the compression test was cold...
Visual inspection shows no signs of oil in the driveway or under the car (it's been sitting for >6 months). The valve cover on the other hand had oil all over it. No visible leaks anywhere else.
So I assume the valve cover needed to be replaced but that was not done in time. In keeping with what I read here it sounds like that could have caused the oil consumption issues as well. I also am assuming the HPFP was the likely culprit for the jerking but that's a guess. Sounds like it could be a lot of things reading here.
So two questions for me!
Does my assessment sound probable based on what you guess from the above (the valve cover/PCV failing and HPFP causing the jerking).
If I can't run it (I was told it didn't start when they tried to jump it recently but it "turned over") any way to assess if there was overheating damage without pulling it apart?
It's in great shape and probably could be had for maybe $1-2k so even if I had to have the block worked on it could be worth it. Or is it toast if it died this way? I don't mind a project if the money makes sense.
I got a well running R50 for under 3k... you can do better... widen your range 1-3k find an R50 or R53 that you can drive away. You will probably still have to put some money into it, but no matter what a better investment.
Yeah all makes sense to me. DIY doesn't scare me and I am willing to do an engine rebuild but that only works if the block/heat isn't damaged beyond repair.
If it can be repaired I actually think it could be a fun project. Just don't know how to assess it properly.
I agree with minnie.the.moocher. However, you can still find a local DIYer in your area and have him/her do what you need.
I bought countless site unseen minis and most of them turned a profit. I'm a black belt mini enthusiast doing this for three years
I personally would grab it and flip it.
now back to the car, ask the owner that you want to pop the valve cover and take a look to see what state the head is in.
next, you want to bring an 18mm 1/2" socket with a long extension and hand spin the engine clockwise and see what is going on.
finally, notate the state of the spark plugs and look though the holes to see if there is oil or excess gas or whatever.
where are you located?
just FYI, i just picked up a 2011 MCS manual with 83k miles I will be flipping. let me know if you would be interested in it
Honestly I like the idea of the project vs just getting one already sorted. Done enough work on cars in the past (I owned a GTI which had its share of problems) that I would be open to ripping it apart and fixing it myself. I have air tools and garage space and don't need a running car anytime soon.
I know these cars have problems, but I have also read enough to know you can get in front of a lot of them with a few changes followed by regular maintenance.
Let me know what you are flipping anyway. I am in New York/New Jersey quite a bit.
Would it not be easier to just put a used motor in it? Yes possibly expensive, but then there is little doubt on the condition of the motor due to lack of oil damage.
Even used motors look pricey from what I can tell so far and a used motor is as much of a crapshoot as this one. A new one is not worth it without question.
I could strip down the block and head and rebuild if necessary for cheaper and maybe even get a bit more power out of it. Rebuilt kits are like $1,500 and if the block needed work that can be done locally for ~$400.
Now if the turbo, HPFP, water pump, etc...goes I am screwed.
N18 on that flip right? Looks like a smarter choice minitobe! Not my favorite color but looks like a nice car.
My .02, it depends on the price. If it's $1500, now we are talking. Anything more than that and I think you can find a running one in decent shape for not much more that needs a little mechanical TLC. I just took the plunge on my 2008 MCS and I have plenty of DIY things I am sorting and having fun at the same time.
Even used motors look pricey from what I can tell so far and a used motor is as much of a crapshoot as this one. A new one is not worth it without question.
I could strip down the block and head and rebuild if necessary for cheaper and maybe even get a bit more power out of it. Rebuilt kits are like $1,500 and if the block needed work that can be done locally for ~$400.
Now if the turbo, HPFP, water pump, etc...goes I am screwed.
N18 on that flip right? Looks like a smarter choice minitobe! Not my favorite color but looks like a nice car.
when doing a rebuild, it is always good to get actual numbers on parts:
rings, stem seals, bearings, water pump, thermostat, turbo oil feed line, oil filter housing gasket, timing chain kit (if needed), head gasket, block bolts, head bolts...etc
yes, this is N18 engine...I wonder what could be the issue? but I have an engine sitting that I can just swap and then dissect this one...lol
I love N14 engines and I love working one them...I just grab what I can potentially make a buck and so far so good. I drive all my flips for at least 3k miles and change the common failure parts even if they're ok so the next owner doesnt have to worry about it.
use realoem.com, newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/, car-part.com, rmeuropean.com and other parts website.
Hoping to get some sensible advice. I am a huge fan of Mini's (always have been) but never pulled the trigger on one because it never made sense. So browsing classifieds locally and there is a 2010 listed for sale and I would do it as a second car in this case so I am considering it.
Pepper White MCS manual
66k
On its second owner
Does not run, owner says engine is dead and has no compression (according to dealer, no data on compression across cylinders)
Here is what I get from my visit with the owner.
Oil light was coming on several times within a 2-3 week span. They also mentioned jerking while driving which was the reason for the initial visit. Multiple visits to the dealer (saw the paperwork) where they said there was "no oil" in the car. The dealer did:
Tensioner replacement
Walnut blasted intake
Owner showed me an oil change receipt about 2 weeks before the car finally stopped. Apparently there was some smoking and it died while driving which is what worries me most. They had the car at the dealer about 5 times within 6 weeks for the oil issue. Car has not run again since the last failure. The invoice from the dealer suggested engine failure and noted overheating and no compression but owner did not mention warning lights prior to the failure (could be lying of course). If it didn't run I assume the compression test was cold...
Visual inspection shows no signs of oil in the driveway or under the car (it's been sitting for >6 months). The valve cover on the other hand had oil all over it. No visible leaks anywhere else.
So I assume the valve cover needed to be replaced but that was not done in time. In keeping with what I read here it sounds like that could have caused the oil consumption issues as well. I also am assuming the HPFP was the likely culprit for the jerking but that's a guess. Sounds like it could be a lot of things reading here.
So two questions for me!
Does my assessment sound probable based on what you guess from the above (the valve cover/PCV failing and HPFP causing the jerking).
If I can't run it (I was told it didn't start when they tried to jump it recently but it "turned over") any way to assess if there was overheating damage without pulling it apart?
It's in great shape and probably could be had for maybe $1-2k so even if I had to have the block worked on it could be worth it. Or is it toast if it died this way? I don't mind a project if the money makes sense.
Just bank on getting and engine and making run again.
