Hey guys,

I plan on going stage 2 very soon. I have Helix FMIC, K&N air filter, and catless miltec into invidia q300.

Two things im curious about is firstly, should i invest the 200 dollars in the switch for the different tunes, is it useful at all?

Secondly, I just passed 50k miles on my car. Should I be doing any preventative maintenance to make sure my car runs strong and healthy? I am replacing spark plugs tomorrow cause im getting something that feels like a misfire/engine is flooding. I hope its not the packs.

Any feedback will be appreciated

 

What year is your car? Are you replacing plugs with ngk 1422? The switch is handy but most people run map B all the time (no meth). So if you had to pick one, i'd tell your tuner put it on map B.

 

+1 for the NGK 1422's.. well needed for stage2 boost.

As for preventative - Have you installed OCC's yet? They will not only keep your engine cleaner but they help keep that oil vape out of your combustion..keeping AFR from leaning out.

 

This thread is right up my alley. I am getting the manic Stage 2 program and I have come to the conclusion that I am going with the middle tune. I don't think I'll need the switch thingy. I will be taking my car for th tune to IAutowerks at 9am on Tuesday.

 

I have a Stage 2 tune and bought SPS switch. I almost never use it but when I do it's a lifesaver. I almost always switch it over to the stock tune when a CEL comes on or I get limp mode. And I'm also running meth so when I accidentally run low on meth I can switch it to a non-meth map.

 

+1 on the NGK 1422’s gapped at 0.60-0.65 mm

I also bought the Switch. For the most part I keep it in Stock Mode. I live in NYC and I don’t get to run it too much. When I go to NJ, PA, MA etc i switch it to Map B.

As thebombardier mentioned it’s handy when a CEL or Limp Mode pops up. You can switch it to stock so you or your local Mini Garage can run diagnostics and have no conflicts with the tune.

 

I'm still stock but thinking about getting a Manic tune. Should I be worried about my clutch with over 100K miles on it?

 

As for preventative maintenance...

I would check in the cylinders for carbon build up and if necessary do a carbon removal treatment (walnut blasting) and do a transmission service.

 

Im running stock plugs because my friend is a mini mechanic and said Minis dont like off brand spark plugs. Is it do much of a difference with the 40 plus hp?

 

Enjoy the tune I am maybe a month out, I am saving for the tune now.

 

Im in the NYC area too. I wanted to switch mostly for that purpose. My friend works at Mini and i take it there often

 

For just straight bolt on, you will be fine, but for the tune you want to go 1 range colder for the sparks to handle the tune better. You will get sputters at heavy acceleration in MapA/B with stock plugs

 

I was told that the N18s dont produce carbon build up like the previous years. I might be misinformed but this is word on the street

 

I spent a shiny penny making this engine pristine

This is from my 2011 Countryman. I empty it every 2-3 months during the winter season and every 4-5 months during the warmer months

 

How do you have the can plumbed into the engine? Looks like your only catching some dirty moisture in there. Doesn’t look like oil bypass.

 

For stage 2 you should absolutely get NGK 1422 plugs. Depending on year, the JCW plugs are one step colder than the S plugs and the 1422 is one step colder than the JCW. I had the S beru plugs and went to the JCW plugs. Big mistake. The sputters Manny is talking about could well be pre-ignition which over time will kill the engine. The ECU is compensating for it by yanking timing but the event already occurred. Not good. With the 1422s I have no problems.

 

I say get the switch. It's better to have it an not need it than the other way around. You can drive on Map A in NYC and test out Map B and C when you have some wider open spaces. Why drive it stock in the city when you paid for the tune? Since you are getting stage 2 you also get the benefit of lower water temps when you are on tune.

 

The OCC interrupts the line going from the PVC Valve to the Turbo. This liquid would be flowing through your turbo, intercooler then engine, if you didn’t have an OCC. It would probably settle in your intercooler without this. With the OCC it minimizes the intercooler deposit.

What you are seeing is the oil vapor, yes it is slippery to the touch and yes it’s very watery.

I’ll grab a better pic later, but in the meantime here’s a pic that shows my set up

 

Here are a few shots

 

 

I was told that if you live a state that requires emission testing and you have a catless DP and a manic tune, that you NEED TO HAVE an SPS switch in order to switch your ECU back to stock in order to pass. So I was planning on getting the switch for that reason alone since MD emissions is strict.


Only thing I never understood was why have 2-3 different maps on your car, when in my mind all you need is a map to match the mods you have and have the ability to switch back to stock.


Maybe I'm not understanding mapping correctly because it seems EACH STAGE can have map A, B, or C (true/false)?


OR does Map A = Stage 1, Map B = Stage 2, Map C = Stage 3 (true/false)?


I'm tempted to start another thread since I haven't seen anyone post about the NEW Manic tune package that's out where NO ECU REMOVAL is required. Its all done by OBD Port Flashing now. This also sounds like No SPS switch is needed but I'm not sure what they are using now to switch between the different flashes offered.

 

Does NYC have emissions testing, seems like most urban cities (and surrounding suburbs) require it and those that live in the county/rural areas don't. If you do, I'm just wondering whats your plan on how to pass when you get the tune put in?

 

Each Stage has different Maps and each map allows to increase or decrease your output
Stage 1 - Stock, MapA, MapB, MapC
Stage 2 - Stock, MapA, MapB, MapC

Stock Map in all stages are governed by the Bolt-Ons and Upgrades and keeps the Mini’s stock 16psi Boost.

Manic Tune (from what I understand) changes parameter to fuel air mix, ignition and throttle response as well as Boost PSI to each map. Leaving the stock parameters in the STOCK MAP from factory for diagnostics.

Map A - Bumps the Boost to 18psi
Map B - Bumps the Boost to 20psi
Map C - Bumps the Boost to 21.4+psi

From what I’m understanding is, we are allowed one “Not Ready” sensor with no CEL

And yes you need to switch to stock to do the state inspection

 

Just to clarify: there is no OBD2 flash solution for r56 n14 or n18. That's only for gen3 'F' cars.

I live in CA, where we have both; **** 91oct and SMOG checks. With the RPM stage2 from Mario on catless DP, I have no CEL and am now worried about passing inspections.

 

Your in with one of the best Tony is great and will take care of you and your car,he did my tune.
Ben