I have a $600.00 estimate for rotors and pads from a reputable BMW-MB-Audi shop in town. Don't have much the choice, it is the only one other than going to Seattle.

It seems the rear end is just fine at 42K.

I asked about oil change and filters. Since 5-30 Castrol is recommended on the dipstick, he also explain that Manx oil filters are the same as OEM. Since my engine is doing fine at 8-10K oil service intervals without topping, I don't see any reason to change.

Anybody having comments on that?

 

Check with our forum vendors - a set of Centric front rotors and pads of your choice should be under $300. Drilled and slotted rotors will be more of course. Might need the sensor too if it has worn through.

Replacing the rotors and pads is an easy job - did mine last weekend. Assuming you already have a set of metric sockets and end wrenches, you'll need a Torx T-45 (I think that's the size) for the rotor retention bolt, a can of BrakeKleen, some high temp brake lube for putting in the new pads, and blue loctite for the caliper bolts. A torque wrench is also a good idea. I think Pelican Parts has a DIY with pictures on the process.

If you don't want to DIY, then at least check parts prices and how much they're estimating for labor. This is less than an hour of work for someone who has done it before. With a lift and air tools I could probably do it in 30min.

 

Don't buy drilled rotors - only slotted or dimpled. The fully drilled holes create cracks and uneven wear. Otherwise, @squawSkiBum is right on the money. Also, don't forget investing in a BFH (Big F'n Hammer). A rubber-coated mallet can come in handy when the rotors don't want to come off when asked nicely.

 

Broadstroke & Associates in Snohomish is also an option if you don't want to go all the way to SEA

 

Yep, we have Centric and Stoptech version justed added for the JCW and GP2 guys.

Then maybe get some aftermarket pads with less dust like hawk or ebc. Stock oil filter is purflux which we carry at a much lower price than the Genuine MINI one. I have been using that one with the liqui moly molygen 5w-40.

 

I believe I am overcharged at this price.

This afternoon, I stopped by a tire and brake shop and they removed the 4 wheels. My understanding is they are still above specs at 5mm front/7mm rear. The sensors are OK.

 

*less pad material = building heat quicker

Just dont linger too long on those pads & if you do the job yourself you can ziptie the brake sensors up inside the wheel arch, so you dont ever have to worry about replacing those stupid things!

 

For a JCW like yours I would only use the EBC red pads
https://www.waymotorworks.com/jcw-br...tuff-pads.html

and our WMW rotors
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-jo...-cooper-s.html

this is what we use on all our customer cars that come into our shop as we don't have issue or noise complaints from this combo. plus lower dust.

 

Unfortunately that doesn't surprise me. Well, when it comes time to change the fronts out, I bought materials for ~$100 (Centric CTEK rotors + stoptech sport pads) and it took me about 2-2.5 hours without having done them before using hand tools, and about an extra 30 min for bedding in the pads. I'd be interested in how many hours the dealership books for the job, if I were to do them again I think I could get it down to 60-90 min using hand tools and no lift.

 

Find a friend that’s a car guy/girl and they will do it most likely for free. Find the pads part number from Autozone or Oreilly, then find them on Amazon for cheap.
I’ve done countless brake jobs for friends. I hate it when I hear of price quotes like this. For those that don’t know they are at the mercy of the local shop. The shop has to make money to stay open, but a gear head friend will save you $$$$$.

 

2 shops have been honest about time. The dealer told them it was 1.37 hr for the front as well as 1.37 hr for the rear. Of course, the guy with the $600 estimate is abusing.

I made the decision to buy my own parts from the vendors recommendations and I will have them installed.

 

Let use know how its goes, I have changed the 4 pot JCW and 6 pot GP2 brakes and it gives me time to clean and wax the calipers while I am at it, I spent more time cleaning those then it took me to do the brake jobs.

 

Second that about the EBC Redstuff pads. They are better than factory regarding dust and feel...

 

You might want to check the shop beforehand. Some places won’t install user sourced parts even if they are OEM...

 

I know. I found a mechanic who will do it on his spare time.

 

I had the front done a few days ago. I replaced with Centric rotors and EBC Red Stuff.


I should have been good for at least another 10K on the OEM without having the sensor to come on but it is done for peace of mind.


Surprisingly at close inspection, the pads are still at 8mm at the back. Since I have the pads and rotors, I am wondering if I should wait. Could I really expect any difference?

 

You wouldn't notice any difference unless you track the car....as mentioned above, more pad thickness will help with the heat that develops on the track. In normal driving, the rear brakes don't work very hard.

 

I've been looking for red Brembo pads all over the place! Thank you for posting the link to them!

 

An earlier post suggested T45 for the retention bolt. I believe it's T50.

 

To the guy only changing oil at 8-10K because it doesn't use any oil. It is not going to do that forever. Mine did that too for about 50K. It is going to sneak up on you when it starts and all of a sudden your are dangerously low for that 10K oil change. I would double the frequency of changes and check it in between changes (4x).


WHo has the torque spec for front JCW calipers? Is it 81 ftlbs like the S?

 

LOL.... use the ONLY recommended FULL synthetic oil and OEM filter and you will be OK.

Only Castrol Edge meets the requirements and not even Mobil 1. The other oils discussed often on this board don't and it is the reason they have to be drained sooner with some of them after just 3 - 5K.

There is no need to worry about frequency before 50K but If you track every weekend it's like your brakes........right?

As for the front calipers, If I remember it was 85 Ft/Lbs