My N14 roadster project is beginning to take shape

It's starting this journey with just cosmetic + handling bits and bobs to begin with,
whilst I forge a longer term plan for upgrades under the hood.
Remember I have a factory fresh engine with next to no miles on it (3500)

So what's the best way to keep those inlet valves clean and shiny, the idea of multiple catch cans and foot after foot of tubing snaking around the engine bay leaves me stone cold.

What if there was a solution under our noses ?

It occurred to me that BBQ mode is sending unburnt fuel down the pipes,
Could this also not help clean the inlet valves ?

Could this be tweaked further and made into a "service map"

Be good to hear anyone else's thoughts on this concept, might be that
What I save on catch cans could be spent on extra fuel, or exhaust components
Still a clean engine is a happy engine.

 

Nothing will keep the intake valves clean on a stock motor because the engine is direct injection. By the time any fuel in entering the mix the intake valves are closed and the area that gets coked up is closed off to the ignition cycle. You either need to walnut blast them periodically or invest in methanol injection.

 

WMI keeps it clean.

 

Also I wouldn't call an engine with WMI a "stock motor".

 

Should meth be 4 port or will a simple single jet do the job ?

 

Single would be fine. As long as you have fluid hitting the back of the valves. There's a guy over in the Aquamist thread who made a 4 port setup and it is a pain to say the least.

 

4 port really don't do much! cuz its post MAP" single jet before MAP works the best. until we have a standalone tuning system i would just stay with the jet! AM running aquamist my self ! go check this thread out i have some photo in there of my set up think its on page 21/22 really cant remember !

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-systems.html

 

I started with a single 1.2mm jet, located "upstream" of the MAP/T sensor --- worked great 'til I got over 300WHP. After blowing #1 spark plug and 1 exhaust valve due to heat, I added 4 more 0.4mm jets, and also changed the sensor jet to 0.4mm, for a total of 2.0mm. Yes, it was a PITA to add the 4 jets, but for my build it was necessary. I chose to add them to the existing manifold, but there are manifold "spacers" out there that can be modified to accept WMI jets. Still a PITA!

Lesson learned --- WMI is good for not only cleaning valves, but also for cooling down the combustion chamber. Our intake manifold is not designed for distributing the "upstream" WMI, only air. As a result, WMI was not being distributed properly to #1 cylinder. Apparently not a problem 'til you get closer to 300WHP, unless maybe you do a lot of track driving --- mines a DD with minimal full throttle --- don't need it that often. I'm also running a dual OCC --- really want to minimize build-up on the valves.

So, my recommendation is to go with a dual OCC, then the Aquamist HFS4 WMI and a Manic tune -- to get the full benefit of WMI. Depending on your WMI ratio, there's power to be had. Talk it up with your local Manic installer.