R56 Need Advice: Repairing suspension
Need Advice: Repairing suspension
Hello everyone, I have a 2007 MCS with just over 100,000 miles. I am the second owner. My wife drives it mostly to and from work; so it hardly gets over 2,000 miles a year now - I love having it around for fun summer drives.
Let me start by saying I am NOT a Mini expert. I love my MCS, but I'm not a mechanic. (Perhaps a bad car buying decision, but they're so fun to drive.
)
It has become very apparent in the past few months I believe it needs new bushings, shocks, and strut mounts. I don't believe they have ever been replaced.
1. I would like to know which products I should choose. I might rather purchase my own parts and bring them to the mechanic. I just want good parts but I don't need top of the line sport parts.
(I know this probably isn't the right thread section for this... but...If there is anyone in the Chicago area who would be open to taking on the repair OR would at least be able to verify my needs, please let me know. I would be happy to compensate you instead of a shop.)
Thank you
Let me start by saying I am NOT a Mini expert. I love my MCS, but I'm not a mechanic. (Perhaps a bad car buying decision, but they're so fun to drive.
)It has become very apparent in the past few months I believe it needs new bushings, shocks, and strut mounts. I don't believe they have ever been replaced.

1. I would like to know which products I should choose. I might rather purchase my own parts and bring them to the mechanic. I just want good parts but I don't need top of the line sport parts.
(I know this probably isn't the right thread section for this... but...If there is anyone in the Chicago area who would be open to taking on the repair OR would at least be able to verify my needs, please let me know. I would be happy to compensate you instead of a shop.)
Thank you
If it was my car with the kind of usage it gets, I'd just go OEM and let the mechanic deal with it. If you buy the parts and they don't fit, who pays for the extra time involved? I've had that happen and it is awkward. Some mechanics eat the cost of the time and then they aren't so anxious to work with you again. Others don't care. Have a good discussion first about it.
If it was my car with the kind of usage it gets, I'd just go OEM and let the mechanic deal with it. If you buy the parts and they don't fit, who pays for the extra time involved? I've had that happen and it is awkward. Some mechanics eat the cost of the time and then they aren't so anxious to work with you again. Others don't care. Have a good discussion first about it.
Yes, it's accident free. What about bushings? I've noticed it being very clunky going over bumps, I also did the tire kick test.
If I was going to be refreshing the suspension, I would get all new of the following:
- front struts
- front upper strut mounts
- front sway bar links
- front sway bar bushings
- front control arm bushings
- rear shocks
- rear upper mount bushings
- rear sway bar links
- rear sway bar bushings
- rear trailing arm bushings
The list above can be reduced if you are not planning on keeping the car past another year or so. If you are planning on having the car for at least another 3 years, the above is the minimum I would replace.
- front struts
- front upper strut mounts
- front sway bar links
- front sway bar bushings
- front control arm bushings
- rear shocks
- rear upper mount bushings
- rear sway bar links
- rear sway bar bushings
- rear trailing arm bushings
The list above can be reduced if you are not planning on keeping the car past another year or so. If you are planning on having the car for at least another 3 years, the above is the minimum I would replace.
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If I was going to be refreshing the suspension, I would get all new of the following:
- front struts
- front upper strut mounts
- front sway bar links
- front sway bar bushings
- front control arm bushings
- rear shocks
- rear upper mount bushings
- rear sway bar links
- rear sway bar bushings
- rear trailing arm bushings
The list above can be reduced if you are not planning on keeping the car past another year or so. If you are planning on having the car for at least another 3 years, the above is the minimum I would replace.
- front struts
- front upper strut mounts
- front sway bar links
- front sway bar bushings
- front control arm bushings
- rear shocks
- rear upper mount bushings
- rear sway bar links
- rear sway bar bushings
- rear trailing arm bushings
The list above can be reduced if you are not planning on keeping the car past another year or so. If you are planning on having the car for at least another 3 years, the above is the minimum I would replace.
Are you doing the labor yourself?
FSD’s are something to consider, along with Ireland Engineering Fixed Camber Plates, and front sway bar drop links. No need to change sway bar or springs, as long as a stock ride height is ok for you.
Upgrading the rear with a factory JCW sway bar or aftermarket 19mm bar is popular.Stock upper shock mounts will address the noise that many people experience.
save money for labor- 6-8 hours at most shops for above work and alignment.
FSD’s are something to consider, along with Ireland Engineering Fixed Camber Plates, and front sway bar drop links. No need to change sway bar or springs, as long as a stock ride height is ok for you.
Upgrading the rear with a factory JCW sway bar or aftermarket 19mm bar is popular.Stock upper shock mounts will address the noise that many people experience.
save money for labor- 6-8 hours at most shops for above work and alignment.
Are you doing the labor yourself?
FSD’s are something to consider, along with Ireland Engineering Fixed Camber Plates, and front sway bar drop links. No need to change sway bar or springs, as long as a stock ride height is ok for you.
Upgrading the rear with a factory JCW sway bar or aftermarket 19mm bar is popular.Stock upper shock mounts will address the noise that many people experience.
save money for labor- 6-8 hours at most shops for above work and alignment.
FSD’s are something to consider, along with Ireland Engineering Fixed Camber Plates, and front sway bar drop links. No need to change sway bar or springs, as long as a stock ride height is ok for you.
Upgrading the rear with a factory JCW sway bar or aftermarket 19mm bar is popular.Stock upper shock mounts will address the noise that many people experience.
save money for labor- 6-8 hours at most shops for above work and alignment.
I would for sure go with the Powerflex front control arm bushings as they won't wear out again.
http://waymotorworks.com/powerflex-f...shing-kit.html
then rear shock bushings
http://waymotorworks.com/powerflex-r...-bushings.html
Or just go all out with the complete powerflex suspension kit
http://waymotorworks.com/powerflex-h...7-r58-r59.html
And the Powerflex is on sale now so great time.
then put a set of Koni FSDs
http://waymotorworks.com/koni-fsd-shocks-f55-f56.html
and new strut mounts
http://waymotorworks.com/front-upper...7-r58-r59.html
All these will work great for your daily driver car and ride well.
http://waymotorworks.com/powerflex-f...shing-kit.html
then rear shock bushings
http://waymotorworks.com/powerflex-r...-bushings.html
Or just go all out with the complete powerflex suspension kit
http://waymotorworks.com/powerflex-h...7-r58-r59.html
And the Powerflex is on sale now so great time.
then put a set of Koni FSDs
http://waymotorworks.com/koni-fsd-shocks-f55-f56.html
and new strut mounts
http://waymotorworks.com/front-upper...7-r58-r59.html
All these will work great for your daily driver car and ride well.











