R56 What service should I do to make my Mini last to 200K miles?
#1
What service should I do to make my Mini last to 200K miles?
Currently at 130K miles. My goal is to get to 200K miles. I do all my own service. Is there any service I should be doing that I am missing? Any parts I should replace that are prone to failure on a high milage Mini?
I have the 3rd generation timing chain installed. The prior owner had it replaced sometime before 110K miles (when I bought it).
Recently replaced:
- Plastic water pipe (between thermostat and water pump)
- Thermostat
- Lower engine mount
- Valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, Crankshaft seal (passenger side)
- Vanos solenoid
- HPFP (at 115K miles)
Every 5K miles:
- Oil change
Every 2 years:
- Coolant
- Brake fluid
Every 80K miles:
- Transmission fluid
As needed:
- Carbon cleaning
- Brake rotors and pads
I have the 3rd generation timing chain installed. The prior owner had it replaced sometime before 110K miles (when I bought it).
Recently replaced:
- Plastic water pipe (between thermostat and water pump)
- Thermostat
- Lower engine mount
- Valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, Crankshaft seal (passenger side)
- Vanos solenoid
- HPFP (at 115K miles)
Every 5K miles:
- Oil change
Every 2 years:
- Coolant
- Brake fluid
Every 80K miles:
- Transmission fluid
As needed:
- Carbon cleaning
- Brake rotors and pads
#3
#4
#5
#6
Edit: I now see that they can seize up and break the crankshaft. I'll look into replacing mine as preventive maintenance.
Last edited by geofox784; 10-09-2017 at 12:48 AM.
#7
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#8
Currently at 130K miles. My goal is to get to 200K miles. I do all my own service. Is there any service I should be doing that I am missing? Any parts I should replace that are prone to failure on a high milage Mini?
I have the 3rd generation timing chain installed. The prior owner had it replaced sometime before 110K miles (when I bought it).
Recently replaced:
- Plastic water pipe (between thermostat and water pump)
- Thermostat
- Lower engine mount
- Valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, Crankshaft seal (passenger side)
- Vanos solenoid
- HPFP (at 115K miles)
Every 5K miles:
- Oil change
Every 2 years:
- Coolant
- Brake fluid
Every 80K miles:
- Transmission fluid
As needed:
- Carbon cleaning
- Brake rotors and pads
I have the 3rd generation timing chain installed. The prior owner had it replaced sometime before 110K miles (when I bought it).
Recently replaced:
- Plastic water pipe (between thermostat and water pump)
- Thermostat
- Lower engine mount
- Valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, Crankshaft seal (passenger side)
- Vanos solenoid
- HPFP (at 115K miles)
Every 5K miles:
- Oil change
Every 2 years:
- Coolant
- Brake fluid
Every 80K miles:
- Transmission fluid
As needed:
- Carbon cleaning
- Brake rotors and pads
#9
I haven't searched that long due to being busy, but can anyone confirm if the N12 Justas have the vacuum pump issue?
I don't think luck* has anything to do with keeping an N14 on the road long-term. Just far more preventive, expensive maintenance than one should expect from a modern engine.
*except for the chain tensioner bolt backing out. We did just get lucky that it happened in a Target parking lot and not on the highway
I don't think luck* has anything to do with keeping an N14 on the road long-term. Just far more preventive, expensive maintenance than one should expect from a modern engine.
*except for the chain tensioner bolt backing out. We did just get lucky that it happened in a Target parking lot and not on the highway
#10
#11
#12
Very good list.
On the carbon cleaning (walnut blasting of intake valves) - I would just do it every 30K, especially if majority of driving is short trips/stop and and go traffic.
In total agreement with 3elsuive on replacing turbo oil line/return and oil filter housing/cooler gaskets and with AZDart regarding vacuum pump.
I bought an 07 MCS with a broken timing chain at 88K - which I traced to a failed vacuum pump and did replaced all the components mentioned except the gaskets on oil filter housing/cooler. Now at 120 k miles, other than the oil leaking from the oil filter/cooler, its been running remarkably well. I actually change the oil every 2500 - 3000 miles - they just get so dirty so fast!
On the carbon cleaning (walnut blasting of intake valves) - I would just do it every 30K, especially if majority of driving is short trips/stop and and go traffic.
In total agreement with 3elsuive on replacing turbo oil line/return and oil filter housing/cooler gaskets and with AZDart regarding vacuum pump.
I bought an 07 MCS with a broken timing chain at 88K - which I traced to a failed vacuum pump and did replaced all the components mentioned except the gaskets on oil filter housing/cooler. Now at 120 k miles, other than the oil leaking from the oil filter/cooler, its been running remarkably well. I actually change the oil every 2500 - 3000 miles - they just get so dirty so fast!
#13
Very good list.
On the carbon cleaning (walnut blasting of intake valves) - I would just do it every 30K, especially if majority of driving is short trips/stop and and go traffic.
In total agreement with 3elsuive on replacing turbo oil line/return and oil filter housing/cooler gaskets and with AZDart regarding vacuum pump.
I bought an 07 MCS with a broken timing chain at 88K - which I traced to a failed vacuum pump and did replaced all the components mentioned except the gaskets on oil filter housing/cooler. Now at 120 k miles, other than the oil leaking from the oil filter/cooler, its been running remarkably well. I actually change the oil every 2500 - 3000 miles - they just get so dirty so fast!
On the carbon cleaning (walnut blasting of intake valves) - I would just do it every 30K, especially if majority of driving is short trips/stop and and go traffic.
In total agreement with 3elsuive on replacing turbo oil line/return and oil filter housing/cooler gaskets and with AZDart regarding vacuum pump.
I bought an 07 MCS with a broken timing chain at 88K - which I traced to a failed vacuum pump and did replaced all the components mentioned except the gaskets on oil filter housing/cooler. Now at 120 k miles, other than the oil leaking from the oil filter/cooler, its been running remarkably well. I actually change the oil every 2500 - 3000 miles - they just get so dirty so fast!
I'm working on installing catch cans so hopefully I wont have any carbon buildup after that.
I plan on replacing the vacuum pump once I have some extra cash.
Should I replace the turbo oil line just to prevent a future slow leak or can the turbo line seals burst suddenly causing catastrophic failure? I'm a little short on cash now so I'm mostly focusing on stuff that can cause catastrophic failure / leave me stranded.
Did you replace both 5 and 6 in this diagram or just 5?
#14
Regarding oil cooler gaskets:
Replaced 5 and 6. Also, you may want to blow the channels out in the cooler (the stacked finned assy #4) in diagram. For some reason I had gunk build up in the cooling portion (there is separate oil and coolant passageway).
Regarding turbo line - slow leak, not catastrophic.
With that said, care and feeding (oil) of the turbo is key to longevity! With that said, I would watch for any potential back pressure due to clogged/inefficient primary cat - this can blow the seals/build up carbon on the hot side of the turbo wheel - found out the hard way after I had replaced the turbo with a new one my son's 07 MCS, fortunately I was able to just replace the seals and clean the turbo wheel/shaft assembly. For now, I would not replace the cat, but if you have any loss of power or periodic loss of power that can't be traced back to the engine itself, check the cat - not my area of expertise as to what testing or CEL codes to look for, perhaps someone can chime in.
Replaced 5 and 6. Also, you may want to blow the channels out in the cooler (the stacked finned assy #4) in diagram. For some reason I had gunk build up in the cooling portion (there is separate oil and coolant passageway).
Regarding turbo line - slow leak, not catastrophic.
With that said, care and feeding (oil) of the turbo is key to longevity! With that said, I would watch for any potential back pressure due to clogged/inefficient primary cat - this can blow the seals/build up carbon on the hot side of the turbo wheel - found out the hard way after I had replaced the turbo with a new one my son's 07 MCS, fortunately I was able to just replace the seals and clean the turbo wheel/shaft assembly. For now, I would not replace the cat, but if you have any loss of power or periodic loss of power that can't be traced back to the engine itself, check the cat - not my area of expertise as to what testing or CEL codes to look for, perhaps someone can chime in.
#16
Back to the thread...
#17
When is the suspension usually "due"? Do most high milage owners replace theirs as preventative maintenance? The only "problem" I have with mine is lack of a smooth ride in general especially on dirt roads. On dirt roads that I could easily drive 30 mph in another vehicle I feel like I have to slow down to 5 mph in my mini to avoid shaking the car apart, especially with water boarded roads.
#18
#21
Ha! Our Cooper S is at 124,000 miles. I’m pretty much doing all the things listed above to make sure it’s well maintained. I’ve seen lots of standard coopers make it over 200k without major overhaul etc. cannot say I have seen a ton of Turbo models for sale that are boasting high miles though.
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