Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

No Start Condition - Running out of options...

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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 11:17 AM
  #1  
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No Start Condition - Running out of options...

Okay so what started as a trans fault (I thought), as per my previous post, turns out to be electrical and just throwing codes and causing a no start condition.

As of now what happens is you put the key in the slot, foot on the brake (it's an auto) and press the start button and nothing happens. You can hear the fuel pump run for about one second upon hitting the start button but nothing from the starter motor. All interior lights work, nav works - all interior electronics seem fine.

It happened completely randomly - Drove car to dinner, parked, came back and no start.

Codes:

A0C1: CAS: Output terminal 50
A0C2: CAS: Output terminal 50RS
A0B6: CAS: Selector Lever Interlock (Comes and goes)

It also throws a trans malfunction and occasionally (comes and goes) a starter motor operation fault - most likely related to whatever issue is causing the no start.

Where are the engine grounding points as a starting place for this? I also swapped the battery from another one of our MINI's and still no dice.

I am running out of ideas and have searched everywhere online... I appreciate any ideas you have!!!
 
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 11:41 AM
  #2  
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Is the MINI battery exactly the same as the one in this car? Bookkeeping is not always the best and I've had a battery offered to me that would not have worked in mine. Be careful of switching between two MINIs unless you know for sure they are identical. Option packages matter and not all MINIs came with the same battery.

Somehow you need to retrace when it stopped working. It's probably simple, but simple is not always easy to find.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 12:05 PM
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Nope batteries were slightly different. Both were fully charged by a trickle charger before attempting to start.

I'm thinking loose ground or something as that seems to be the solution for the BMW guys with similar issues.

Any idea where to find all engine grounding points? I know of only the passenger side engine mount ground. That's tight for sure.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 12:20 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by NathanMckee
Nope batteries were slightly different. Both were fully charged by a trickle charger before attempting to start.

I'm thinking loose ground or something as that seems to be the solution for the BMW guys with similar issues.

Any idea where to find all engine grounding points? I know of only the passenger side engine mount ground. That's tight for sure.
That is a tough one. I don't offhand know. Have you looked at a wiring diagram to see if it'll give you a hint where to look?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 07:27 AM
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the engine ground wire is the strap connected to the motor mount on the left side (passenger side)

can you confirm the engine rotates by hand? 18mm socket CLOCKWISE.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 08:10 AM
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I've not had this problem with batteries, but I've read that some MINI owners needed the car programmed to work with a particular MINI. Also the engine mount ground is the only one I have messed with, but that doesn't mean there are no other grounds. If the engine turns you'll want to test if each spark plug and coil combination gives a good strong spark.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 08:14 AM
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I do have a wiring diagram in the Bentley Manual but it's so generic. That ground strap is definitely tight.

I am almost 100% sure it will turn by hand as it was running perfectly when it was shut off and parked. I will dounle check that today / tomorrow when I get a chance.

Okay so not a ground, and the starter is not even clicking like an attempt to start.

Could it be the CAS module? That's where all of the codes are coming from. How could I check the CAS?

Also, terminal 50 is the starter relay in the CAS, but I checked and cleaned all starter connections.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 08:18 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by sikamini
I've not had this problem with batteries, but I've read that some MINI owners needed the car programmed to work with a particular MINI. Also the engine mount ground is the only one I have messed with, but that doesn't mean there are no other grounds. If the engine turns you'll want to test if each spark plug and coil combination gives a good strong spark.
I read all about the battery stuff, but it should still start the car without a reprogramming, it just may throw a check engine light or not charge the battery to full capacity.

The car does NOT turn over. Press the start button and there is no cranking action. No click from the starter or anything. Just the fuel pump running is the only thing you hear and then the car automatically cycles off as it would when you just touch the start button once to turn the engine and some accessories off but leave the radio on.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 12:12 PM
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Only thing I could think of is the ground:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...il-change.html

Or a bad start stop switch.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-t-start.html
 
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 12:19 PM
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I checked that ground and also checked both keys and they both click into place (car also have comfort access).

Just had it towed to our local BMW specialist shop for a Monday diagnosis. I can't wait to see what they come up with!
 
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 12:21 PM
  #11  
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Let us know.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 12:22 PM
  #12  
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This is juts a shot in the dark, but could it simply be that the starter has failed?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 12:44 PM
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Could have but it's rare for a starter to fail in a MINI. Most of the time its a gen 1 MINI and its rusted to pieces.

I have had animals get in the car and chew through cables and stuff, thats my guess in the engine bay.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 12:59 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning
Could have but it's rare for a starter to fail in a MINI. Most of the time its a gen 1 MINI and its rusted to pieces.

I have had animals get in the car and chew through cables and stuff, thats my guess in the engine bay.
I doesn't even take an animal. When I did my clutch job I noticed that a spot on a wiring harness had almost rubbed through. Over time wire bundles rubbing together will rub to bare wire. Then it's pretty sure something will go wrong.
 
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Old May 14, 2019 | 07:57 AM
  #15  
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Did you got this figured out? The Terminal 50 issue?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 11:04 AM
  #16  
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Terminal 50 issue

Hi did anyone get this terminal 50 issue figged out ?
I have a mini 1 and it is bringing this up on the dynostics.
just done all the timing on it.
please help thank you
 
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Old Jun 3, 2022 | 01:17 AM
  #17  
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It loo

Originally Posted by NathanMckee
Okay so what started as a trans fault (I thought), as per my previous post, turns out to be electrical and just throwing codes and causing a no start condition.

As of now what happens is you put the key in the slot, foot on the brake (it's an auto) and press the start button and nothing happens. You can hear the fuel pump run for about one second upon hitting the start button but nothing from the starter motor. All interior lights work, nav works - all interior electronics seem fine.

It happened completely randomly - Drove car to dinner, parked, came back and no start.

Codes:

A0C1: CAS: Output terminal 50
A0C2: CAS: Output terminal 50RS
A0B6: CAS: Selector Lever Interlock (Comes and goes)

It also throws a trans malfunction and occasionally (comes and goes) a starter motor operation fault - most likely related to whatever issue is causing the no start.

Where are the engine grounding points as a starting place for this? I also swapped the battery from another one of our MINI's and still no dice.

I am running out of ideas and have searched everywhere online... I appreciate any ideas you have!!!
Hello there. It looks like there is bad communication from the TCM "transmission Control Module"
 
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Old Jun 5, 2022 | 07:35 PM
  #18  
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Just saw this thread and wanted to add:

There is (at least?) one more engine ground which if disconnected will not let the car start (without any dash lights coming on). It is located at the middle one of the front bolts around the valve cover. A small, easily overlooked wire (out of the harness lying just in front of the valve cover) extends to it. In order to see this bolt and the wire to it, the spark plug and coil cover must be removed (at least on my 2010 base Cooper LCI with the N16 engine and automatic transmission).

Edit:
Found a picture on the web and indicated the bolt in question.
(source of the picture)

 

Last edited by giorgos; Jun 5, 2022 at 08:30 PM.
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