R50/53 R53 02 Cooper S Codes P1689, P1109, P1242, P0222, P0123
R53 02 Cooper S Codes P1689, P1109, P1242, P0222, P0123
Hey guys,
As the title says I'm getting the following codes: P1689, P1109, P1242, P0222, P0123.
Little back story on the car. I bought it everything was running good but the front suspension needed some TLC. Pulled the motor and trans so that I would have ample room to work. Got all the front end taken care of and the motor in and hooked up.
Started the motor and had crazy surging RPMs going from 0 to 3k back and forth. Checked for vacuum leaks as suggested by you guys and also purchased a OBD2 code reader (Bluetooth off of Amazon ) to see if I was getting any codes. I cleared the codes using Torque lite and none of them came back but I am still getting surging.
Disconnected the boost gauge because I wasn't sure if maybe I didn't get it hooked back up right and i plugged that port. I got a guy from work to operate the key and pedals while I could look at the engine bay. In the 5 to 10 sec that it would be running the header would be glowing red. Not to a point of melting but damn close.
I have checked the BCV spring and to me it feels strong but I am about to pull off the throttle body and check to make sure that it is closing all the way. If not i will be ordering a detroit one.
At this point I'm stumped.
Few questions I have being a newer mini owner. Does the Air box have to be connected to the Throttle body for me to start and run? Also does the inter-cooler need to be clamped down? ( This was left unbolted due to ease of removal and replace when i needed to get underneath it.)
Thanks for all your help so far!
If anyone in the Charleston SC area wants to help and have a beer let me know
As the title says I'm getting the following codes: P1689, P1109, P1242, P0222, P0123.
Little back story on the car. I bought it everything was running good but the front suspension needed some TLC. Pulled the motor and trans so that I would have ample room to work. Got all the front end taken care of and the motor in and hooked up.
Started the motor and had crazy surging RPMs going from 0 to 3k back and forth. Checked for vacuum leaks as suggested by you guys and also purchased a OBD2 code reader (Bluetooth off of Amazon ) to see if I was getting any codes. I cleared the codes using Torque lite and none of them came back but I am still getting surging.
Disconnected the boost gauge because I wasn't sure if maybe I didn't get it hooked back up right and i plugged that port. I got a guy from work to operate the key and pedals while I could look at the engine bay. In the 5 to 10 sec that it would be running the header would be glowing red. Not to a point of melting but damn close.
I have checked the BCV spring and to me it feels strong but I am about to pull off the throttle body and check to make sure that it is closing all the way. If not i will be ordering a detroit one.
At this point I'm stumped.

Few questions I have being a newer mini owner. Does the Air box have to be connected to the Throttle body for me to start and run? Also does the inter-cooler need to be clamped down? ( This was left unbolted due to ease of removal and replace when i needed to get underneath it.)Thanks for all your help so far!
If anyone in the Charleston SC area wants to help and have a beer let me know
Couple of suggestions/questions: 1.) Have you done a search to determine what each of the codes are? 2.) The 1680 codes usually are dealing with the throttle body, BPV and other air to engine type items. 3.) Under pressure/vacuum I'm thinking the air system is boosting over 10 PSI. You ask a question on whether the intercooler needs to clamped down that I am assuming you mean the collars that hold the rubber boots in place. In modern engineered machinery, fasteners such as bolts, nuts, screws and clamps are usually there for a reason. 4.) Have you verified that your battery is fully charged and the reserve amperage is sufficient? 5.) Are you sure you have all the grounds connected back up? Did you clean up the connection points when you put the car back to together?
The ECU looks for specific readings from the air and fuel system. If you have leaks, the car is not going to run correctly. Ten pounds of pressure may not sound like allot but in an engine that has sensors for monitoring, the loss of 1 lb/10% is a whole lot. If your battery or grounding is not up to specs the electrical controls will not work correctly either.
The ECU looks for specific readings from the air and fuel system. If you have leaks, the car is not going to run correctly. Ten pounds of pressure may not sound like allot but in an engine that has sensors for monitoring, the loss of 1 lb/10% is a whole lot. If your battery or grounding is not up to specs the electrical controls will not work correctly either.
Im still trying to find a solution to that have you figured it out
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