First time posting. Done some research here but still have some questions.

The right rear caliper piston dust boot has a small tear and I want to replace it. Rebuild kits like this one, http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...dot-63017.html, are easy to find, but instructions, not so much. Would love to find a video but no luck there, either, so a few questions below. Thanks for your help! Took this job on myself for the wifey's Mini and am about to get myself in the doghouse if I can't get her back on the road soon.

Looks like it would be easiest to remove the entire caliper (tight space), but how do I disconnect it from the e-brake? If removing is a PITA, then is there a brake line crimp tool so I don't make a bloody mess?

Looks like I need to use compressed air to force out the piston (or at least this is a valid method), true?

Once the piston is removed, does anyone have instructions for attaching the new dust boot and o-ring?

Thanks everyone!

 

ive never done it before, but it looks straight forward.

I think you can remove the caliper same way to do brakes. keeping the brake line attached, pump the brake peddle to push piston out OR use the brake pads tool to SPIN it forward.
after that it might more visible were that lock ring goes.

also, you can always buy a used caliper and swap it.

post pix if you can.

 

Duh - pumping the brakes did the trick. Piston has just a little bit of wear but nothing that looks like it needs to be replaced. Also, the inner o-ring is in good shape. The picture of the caliper piston housing shows a nice view of why the piston has to be turned and NOT pushed in with a c-clamp. Now I just have to wait for the repair kit to arrive. Couldn't find any locally. Will post another update ASAP. Thanks!

 

nice

 

UPDATE: Working on the left rear pad installation while waiting for the rebuilt kit for the right rear. Caliper piston clearly needed compressing, so used the cube tool and got pretty far with it. However, it seems like I've gone as far as I can but I still need another 3/8 - 1/2" of compression to get the caliper on. Getting concerned because the boot is already starting to overlap the piston. See pics in post below.

Thoughts? I'm just about to the point of pushing left rear caliper piston out (like I had to do with the right rear) and ordering another rebuild kit since it's only about $10 and my sanity seems to be worth at least that much. LOL! This all seems ridiculously difficult.

 

 

The boot is made to collapse in place while the piston is screwed back. I did the rear brakes and nothing out of the norm stood out.
if the boot is bad and there is corrosion inside, that is a differentl story.

 

I am pushing and turning as hard as I can with this cube tool but can't get the caliper piston to compress any more than it is.

Sounds like it would be easier to give up, push out the piston, and replace the boot. Thoughts?

 

before you replace the boot, try to install the brake pads. it might be just enough for it to slide in.

also, does the handbrake effect the installation in any way?

 

UPDATE 2.0:

Got some leverage on that left rear caliper piston, so that job is done. Whew! Have always been able to use a c-clamp on other jobs.

Just out of curiosity, I called the dealership, and to replace the rear pads, sensor, and rotors and to flush the brake fluid would have been about $600. Yikes!

Will post again when I get the rebuild kit.

Thanks for everyone's assistance!

 

UPDATE! Pad sensor and caliper rebuild kit arrived today. Managed to get the boot on nicely (after a little negotiating) but I'm back to the sam problem I had before - I cannot get the piston to compress back into the cylinder. Using the cube tool and a lot of leverage but no dice. Took the piston back out and tried to compress it down without the boot, just for grins and couldn't get it to compress down. Very frustrating. I am trying to do all of this with the caliper attached to the brake line and emergency brake. I am sure this would be easier with the caliper off, but how do I disconnect it from the e-brake?

Thanks for your help!!!

 

Here are some pics of how the e-brake components are attached to the caliper.

 

see attached...it is not that hard

Also, make sure you open the brake fluid cap. perhaps it is making pressure enough not to let you squeeze the piston any more.

 

Take a socket a little bit smaller than the piston, put the caliper in a vice or stand it up. Get a mallet, place the socket over the piston and give it a few shot, it will compress...

 

I removed the e-brake while the caliper was still attached. I grabbed the tip of the e-brake cable with a pair of vice grips and just pulled the pin away from where it loops into the holder. Make sure the e-brake is not engaged.
Do not waste so much time trying to compress that piston on the car, you will spend more time there than just taking it off and following the steps that I posted using a mallet and a socket. Takes a few mins to remove the caliper. After you get it compressed and back on the car, you can re-attach the e-brake cable just by grabbing the tip with a vice grip and pulling it to back in place. Don't forget to bleed your brakes after all this is done.
Sometimes short-cuts are not really short-cuts..

 

How did you make out?

 

I know this is an old thread but a brake caliper compression kit from Harbor Freight really helps get the rear piston back in. It will allow you to screw and push at the same time. I struggled with the cube tool for years with Honda brakes. Got the compression kit from HF and it was a lot easier (actually it was possible).

 

Has anyone removed the hand brake levers from the rear of the R56 caliper? How do you un-tension the internal spring?

 

I,ve answered my own question. Once I had removed the caliper and cleaned it up a bit, a gap became apparent.

 

If you didn't get an answer I was going to suggest you post something in the Gen2 section. Glad you figured it out.