So I got a engine faillure . 1 piston broke when I was in overboost (knock ocassionly in overboost). After engine teardown , I saw the valves are covered with a small white crust indicating a lean condition.

The intake are walnut blast every year.
The turbo is a like new one.

So the 2 last option that I know is
The tune
The Hpfp slowly dying.

The tune may not be the trouble as the engine don t repeat the knock everytime.

So how can I know if the Hpfp is slowly dying?

P.s. I have a dashdyno that can track the psi of the fuel .

 

I just check the fuel rail gas pressure with my autera dashdyno and it is between 685-750psi. I know we can look at the fuel trim also but the autera dashdyno offer like 6 deifferent fuel trim ( short fuel trim , long fuel trim . . . )
Anyone what what else to look for the HPFP test?

In Canada it cost 1900can $ and there is no warranty like in the US.

 

I can't attest to the true accuracy of it but my DashCommand app tells me I'm easily over 1000psi for fuel pressure at any one time, over 1800psi under power WOT.

The most obvious symptom of a dying HPFP for me the first time it happened was rough startup and idle. Then I got a code and check engine light for low fuel rail pressure. Would misfire under power around 3-4k RPM.

The second time it died I ran lean under WOT and blew a hole the size of my head in the engine block. Cracked the piston head in half too. Then they went to put the engine back together the fuel pump was dead and we didn't know it. It ran like it had a boost leak, wouldn't make any power above 1/2 throttle/on boost.

 

Interesting

for the idle fuel pressure , I know I m in the good range if my dashdyno give the good reading.

my engine have a nice startup , no rougth idle. Before it blew it was knocking or missfire in the overboost range. Now the engine is rebuild and walnut blast , so I don t know at this time, I need further investigation before I hit wot.is there any place cheap to get a rebuild HPFP? Did some of you rebuild there pump? Any year the HPFP is better?

I still have reaserch to do
Turbo may have 15000km (JCW TURBO)
Engine walnut blast every year (maybe it is too long 1 time a year)
The tune is a stage 2 and I ask it to be economical .( does because I ask it to be economical, it is too lean?)

 

There are no rebuild kits for the Mini HPFP and no aftermarket fuel pumps. Only option if you think your fuel pump is malfunctioning is to replace it with a new fuel pump. And the HPFPs are year specific so you can't go putting a 2013 fuel pump in a 2009 for example. 2007-2010s with the N14 have one fuel pump, 2011 and early 2012s with the first version of the N18 have another fuel pump and mid/late 2012s and 2013s have another fuel pump, and none are interchangeable.

 

Thank you all for the info, I was running the car today. I did not go too wot.

I got around 720psi idle
1300-1400 partial acceleration 3000rpm to 4000rpm

 

Now I m running stock tune.

I got around 14.5 afr avg
And I go as high as 1360deg F on the egt this number is after 15min drive and it look to stay at that point but I never drive the car more than 20min at the time.

The number are all with the dashdyno

 

At what rpm when you are in wot that you see 1800psi? I can barely have 1595psi under 5000rpm at wot

 

You can check the high pressure system on turbocharged models using a MINI scan tool. You'll want to check the rail pressure set point (desired) and rail pressure actual. We go over this and show an image of what you will see when using a scan tool in our fuel pump testing article HERE. You'll want to view figure 10.

 

Thank you . It will be test at my next appointement to the garage.