I've read a fair amount of treads here so far. I have just a couple short questions to start with.
Background 2007 Mini S, I come from the Jeep Wrangler and Mustang world and bought the Mini as a replacement for the Mustang and fun toy.I drove a friends Mini and it was a blast.

So far I see R50, R53, R56 and so on, are these model numbers or something?

I'm looking for some performance upgrades, mostly computer. I would like to see what you folks would sugest. I'm not ready to start digging into the engine until I understand more about it.

 

The R designations are the codes given to the different models of MINI.

A 2007 MINI Cooper S hardtop is an R56, if you have a 2007 Convertible that would be an R52.

Check out the threads and our website as there is a ton of options for you.

 

'15's should be listed as '16's as well.

Countryman is R60. Coupe & Roadster R58/R59. We go over in a lot more detail about the MINI Designations if you're truly curious. It's on our site under MINI > Tech Info (tab at top) > and then scroll to the very bottom and under Miscellaneous select MINI Designations.

Is there anything done to the vehicle currently? I, personally, like to work from the ground up. Fix up and replace items that need attention, then upgrade suspension items and brakes. Then I move to engine performance.

 

Your ultimate usage should determine which upgrades you get. Performance can be power or handling. Computer affects power more than handling, but should still be considered. As a general rule, these cars are designed for handling more than power, but a little more power wouldn't hurt either.

An '07 probably already lost the run-flats. Consider a good Rear Sway Bar to really improve cornering. If you're gonna track it, get a good brake system --- discs and pads. Better shocks, or coil-overs for lowering (altho they're pretty low already). There's a lot more, depending on how serious you want to get. RSB and brakes are minimum handling upgrades (personal opinion).

For power, I always recommend finding a tuner and working with him. Manic is my choice of tunes. You can start with minimal bolt-ons and get the benefits of improved computer maps. No need for internal engine work 'til you get into serious power --- 280+WHP.

As suggested earlier, familiarize yourself with it and fix what needs fixing first.

There's lots to learn! If you do your own work, invest in the Bentley Service Manual. It's also a good teaching tool. If not, start looking for a good, local Mini mechanic --- dealers will eat your lunch. Have fun and enjoy it while you can --- these R56's can be a PITA.

 

Thank for the info and I take advice and getting to learn more about the ins and outs.
You say the R56

 

Sorry got cut off in the middle of my question, you say the R56 can be a PITA could you clue me in on what that means?

 

I've had my '07 for 5 ½ years and went thru almost all the typical parts failures for the R56 --- the "PITA". Hopefully yours has already had these failures and they were successfully fixed. I bought mine to build for power and succeeded, but in the process made mistakes --- upgrades that didn't match, didn't take advice and over-built --- blew it up last month. So my negative comment should be ignored as I'm kinda down for awhile --- gonna cost a bundle to get it back on the road.

Actually, when it's running, it's a real kick to drive --- as you found out with your friends car. So far, I've found that as power goes up, reliability goes down, so use caution if you go for power.

 

I will attempt to answer your question regarding the R56 "PITA" reference. The R56 has the turbocharged N14 engine which is a slick and torquey direct injected gasoline engine. It suffers from a few common issues.

1. The direct injection requires a high pressure fuel pump that is prone to failure. It is driven off the end of the intake cam shaft.
2. Because the engine is direct injected, no fuel is sprayed into the intake manifold and as a result, the intake valves coke up with carbon. This carbon buildup chokes off the intake runner resulting in a variety of driveability issues. Removal of the carbon is accomplished using a walnut shell blaster which can be an expensive process.
3. They tend to be oil burners, sometimes really bad. Many speculate that this is due to the extended oil change interval that Mini recommends. I haven't seen any concrete evidence one way or the other but I believe that oil is cheap compared to engine rebuilds so I change mine at 5k.
4. The engine uses a timing chain rather than a timing belt. In theory this should be better and require less maintenance but it seems that the system is under engineered and as a result it wears out fast. Tensioner failures are common and chain wear combined with chain guide wear and failure often result in chain failures which basically destroys the engine. Additional load is placed on the timing chain by the high pressure fuel pump and the vacuum pump which are driven off the ends of the cams, accelerating wear on the system. Replacement engines are rare and expensive with no maintenance history so you can spend 4k on an engine and more to install it only to find that it's on its last legs. Timing chain replacement kits are expensive and they require special tools to install correctly. Search "Mini Death Rattle" to learn more about this.
5. The Turbo upper oil line has a swivel fitting right on top of the turbo that has an "O" ring inside it. This gets cooked and eventually fails, resulting in an oil leak and smoke from the engine compartment. Replacement is a bear and the line isn't cheap. Aftermarket flex lines seem to be a better option if you need to replace yours.
6. The thermostat housing is a crazy complex plastic affair that will eventually start leaking and require replacement.
7. The oil filter housing is also a problem area just like the thermostat. Not built to last!
8. Then we get to the water pump and friction wheel. You won't believe this till you actually see it! They didn't run a serpentine belt around all the accessories. Oh no, the belt, which is on the RH side of the motor, runs the AC and the alternator only. So how do they drive the water pump? This key component is driven using a friction wheel that runs on the harmonic ballancer and an input wheel on the water pump.
http://cdn1.evo.co.uk/sites/evo/file...?itok=OsxhUHwK

So that is just the engine stuff. There are a bunch of other common issues with the panoramic sunroofs sticking, antenna corrosion issues that affect the radio and navigation, corrosion under the tail lights, weird electrical anomalies and such.

But when it's all working, you have yourself a big smile and you are the envy of everyone you pass on the road.

 

This makes me want to sell mine...

 

LOL
Well it wasn't supposed to come off as totally negative but I think that my comments are reasonably accurate and do address the OP's question.

The vast majority come here seeking help with problems they are having with their cars while the happy people are out driving around completely oblivious of the misery all too often chronicled here on NAM. It's a shame that forums often become a place of extreme negativity but if you can get past that you will find the wisdom and resources to better manage your Mini ownership experience. So I don't see the point in candy coating things and I've tried to be factual (for the most part) regarding the issues.

That said, I do believe that we own a wonderful car that suffers from some **** poor engineering decisions that affect the product reliability drastically. These cars are a premium product that should be at least as reliable as cars costing half as much, but sadly they aren't.

They are more fun though!

 

NB Cooper - I wasn't doggin you. I knew of all the issues. I've just never seen them summed up quite so neatly! But yeah I think you addressed the OPs questions.

 

NB Cooper,
Thanks for sharing your own knowledge .
I would rather know what I'm up against.
I I just bought the Mini last week and I have good service records with the car. I know the timing chain and water pump.
It also had a walnut blast about a year ago.
I went though all the fluids and filters and changed all of them.
I always change my oil ever 4K and I'm using Mobil 1 5w30
Is this a suitable oil for a Mini?
I'm going to be reading a lot of threads to gain more knowledge.

 

The brake pads and rotors replaced along with a new clutch.