Just replace the CHRA on. The turbo. Does anyone know the settings for the wastegate actuator?

 

NO! However, the actual gate valve should be closed when the turbo is on the bench --- also when no vacuum is applied to the diaphragm. The trick is, how much pressure to have on the closed gate. Probably not critical, as the valve is supposed to be either open (when actuated) or closed --- nothing in-between --- actual operation is a duty cycle, controlled by the ECU. Most important is that it stays closed during normal operation, otherwise you lose boost.

 

I was under the impression that on these cars the wastegate was open at rest and closed on vacuum. Unlike most turbos.

 

Find a vacuum pump, hook it up and watch which way the actuator moves. Then move the waste gate pivot arm the same way, while watching the actual valve. All this while it's still on the bench, or at least where you can see the valve.

If nothing else, look at the valve and move it by hand. Do you think you can build boost with the valve open? Good luck with that!

 

Thanks for the information. I'll give that a try.

 

Just an FYI update. The wastegate is open at rest and closed with vacuum. Opposite of most other turbos. It is set at 1/2 inch of travel while the engine is off. 5/16 of an inch if you are not achieving full boost. Thanks JM turbo Coopers for the information.

 

It's set at 6" from where the wastegate mounts to the pivot center.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3459570

 

Travel from open to closed should be 13mm.

 

Thanks for the info.

After 6 months chasing the 2885 code it has finally been fixed.

After replacing the CHRA and adjusting the car just didn't seem to have the right amount of boost. So I thought to recheck the adjustment with the adjustments in a previous post here.

After taking the top heat shield off I happened to notice one of the set nut had backed off as far as it could to the actuator also the end nut had, somehow come off. A search in my shop I found a suitable nut and adjusted the actuator again. Adding a little thread lock, this time around and I have full boost and no light again. Thanks to everyone who posted here and elsewhere on NAM for all of the informative information.

 

Good find.