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Talk me out of an upgrade!

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Old May 25, 2016 | 08:25 AM
  #1  
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Talk me out of an upgrade!

Hi guys, lurker of the market place here. Nice finally communicating with you guys.

What would you guys do if you were me?

1) Helix SSK, Craven well, torque arm mounts, h-comp rear sway bar.

2) Manic Stage 1

Both costs me around $500usd. I was leaning towards option 1, but most friends around me say to do the tune. I like option 1 because it affects every aspect of driving. Downside of option 1 is shop time to install will bring the price up a few hundred beyond $500 (I have no lift or hoist to use )

Just want to hear if you guys have any opinions about it. If I could put the money in a different place elsewhere or whatever.

I do eventually plan to do both, but probably at least a year later.

My r56 S is basically stock, just have a drop in foam filter, and res delete.
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 08:45 AM
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One of the best bang for your buck mods is a rear sway bar, so that would definitely be on my list. I also would go with the torque arm bushing kit. I've always been a fan of working from the ground up. Suspension, brakes, and then go for engine mods. So, I guess I'd go for #1.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...SUSPRF_pg5.htm
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item2
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg2.htm#item4
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 08:59 AM
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adjustable rear sway bar, but tires and brakes are super important. if you have room for two sets of wheels some good rubber lower proifile is nice, changes things up, or 16's or 15's if they clea,r with low profile smaller overall dia lowers height and gearing crazy difference in feel and acceleration. yha if starting with suspension it starts with wheel and tire choices then brakes then rear roll bar, then you just keep going.
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Euler-Spiral
adjustable rear sway bar, but tires and brakes are super important. if you have room for two sets of wheels some good rubber lower proifile is nice, changes things up, or 16's or 15's if they clea,r with low profile smaller overall dia lowers height and gearing crazy difference in feel and acceleration. yha if starting with suspension it starts with wheel and tire choices then brakes then rear roll bar, then you just keep going.
Yeah, got rid of the run flats real quick. Couldnt stand the ride. Brakes I will upgrade when the fronts go. I replaced the backs recently, but was not happy with the work my family friend did. So when I replace the fronts Ill do the backs too and probably go ceramic.
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 11:51 AM
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Mini quoted me 2.4 Hours for rear sway bar install. Saw people on the forum use WMW and have it done in less than an hour...
Anyone know of any reasoning behind this huge discrepancy? I assume Mini uses the standard reference guide for shop times, why is there such a huge difference?

They also quoted me 0.5 hr Torque mounts, and 1.5 hr short shift kit. I think these are much more reasonable. Ill probably do the torque mounts myself.
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 11:55 AM
  #6  
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Typically, yes they go off time from places like Alldata, etc. Indy shops will most likely be less as some use it only as a guideline and charge what it would take them or less than the posted time depending on a few variables. We have a DIY that shows you how to do the rear sway bar yourself on your R56. Should take the average DIY'er with the right tools about 1.5 hours. It's on our site under MINI > tech info (tab at top) > R56 articles. Take a look at it and see if you'd feel up to the job.

 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 12:30 PM
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+1 for what Pelican and Euler-Spiral said. Start with suspension and brakes so you have a solid foundation, then work on improving the performance of the person behind the wheel. Engine mods and tune should come last.

RSB is a straightforward DIY, all you need are jackstands and the basic sockets plus a torque wrench. I did mine in the garage in about 2.5 hours, after doing it once I could do it again a lot faster. So 2.4 hours for a shop with a lift is on the high side.

Stock R56S brakes are very good, do non-oem pads for lower dust or if you go to the track.

I put in the Powerflex torque arm insert last weekend, also an easy DIY with either jackstands or ramps. There is a little bit of increased vibration transmitted to the cabin but overall I like the change, definitely improved the shifting feel.
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 03:09 PM
  #8  
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ya wanna actually go faster or just tell folks you have bits and pieces?

Cuz a performance driving class will cut your "times" WAY more than any of these bangles will . . .

I'd go so far as to say

A "smart driver" in a 100% stock MINI

will STOMP

any mod'd MINI with a street driver ....

if you don't believe me

go find one of those GOOD go-kart tracks

and see what a GOOD driver does vs an average driver . . .

BUT if ya wanna buy BLING ... good for you
 
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Old May 26, 2016 | 08:58 PM
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The Powerflex Torque arm insert would be my first mod.

Then an Hsport Comp rear sway bar, FYI order quick at UPS and Fedex are adding an $10 handling charge June first due to length of the box.
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 07:18 AM
  #10  
z3german's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Capt_bj
ya wanna actually go faster or just tell folks you have bits and pieces?

Cuz a performance driving class will cut your "times" WAY more than any of these bangles will . . .

I'd go so far as to say

A "smart driver" in a 100% stock MINI

will STOMP

any mod'd MINI with a street driver ....

if you don't believe me

go find one of those GOOD go-kart tracks

and see what a GOOD driver does vs an average driver . . .

BUT if ya wanna buy BLING ... good for you
For now I just want the upgrades to improve general driving feel without going to crazy. I do plan to track at some point in time, and will probably spring for lessons then, I have a couple well rated ones in my area too!

Originally Posted by WayMotorWorks
The Powerflex Torque arm insert would be my first mod.

Then an Hsport Comp rear sway bar, FYI order quick at UPS and Fedex are adding an $10 handling charge June first due to length of the box.
Any reason why you selected the Powerflex one as opposed to NM Engineering engine torque arm mount inserts? You seemed to have recommended the NM one a lot more.
 
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Old May 27, 2016 | 09:18 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by z3german
Hi guys, lurker of the market place here. Nice finally communicating with you guys.

What would you guys do if you were me?

1) Helix SSK, Craven well, torque arm mounts, h-comp rear sway bar.

2) Manic Stage 1

Both costs me around $500usd. I was leaning towards option 1, but most friends around me say to do the tune. I like option 1 because it affects every aspect of driving. Downside of option 1 is shop time to install will bring the price up a few hundred beyond $500 (I have no lift or hoist to use )

Just want to hear if you guys have any opinions about it. If I could put the money in a different place elsewhere or whatever.

I do eventually plan to do both, but probably at least a year later.

My r56 S is basically stock, just have a drop in foam filter, and res delete.


I would do the tune to see what is really needed after that HP is provided
 
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Old May 31, 2016 | 02:36 PM
  #12  
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You can definitely do the tune but I would recommend getting an aftermarket FMIC first to aide in keeping the power and lower the IAT's.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2016 | 08:19 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by z3german
Any reason why you selected the Powerflex one as opposed to NM Engineering engine torque arm mount inserts? You seemed to have recommended the NM one a lot more.
Before powerflex came out with theirs NM was the only option. Now the PF are available and almost half the price. But more important the powerflex goes all the way into the gaps as one half is longer than the other. Also PF makes the outside of the bushing wrap around the edge so it doesn't require a bracket or anything to keep it pushed into the bushing.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2016 | 07:33 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by WayMotorWorks
Before powerflex came out with theirs NM was the only option. Now the PF are available and almost half the price. But more important the powerflex goes all the way into the gaps as one half is longer than the other. Also PF makes the outside of the bushing wrap around the edge so it doesn't require a bracket or anything to keep it pushed into the bushing.
Wow! Thanks for the knowledge, that is definitely helpful.
 
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