A few weeks ago, wife and I were driving and our MCS died. No indicator lights, no CEL, nothing. I checked for spark and it was good. I noticed the fuel pump wasn't coming on when i put the key fob in, so I pulled it and checked it. It would come on for a second or two when I connect the battery, but that's it.

When the engine would turns over, it sounds like there is no compression. I pulled the valve cover and found the plastic for the upper guide and a piece of the bracket missing, so I replaced the timing chain and guides.

I noticed when I tried to install the camshaft alignment tool, it wouldn't go on. I made some indicators to put in each cylinder. Once I did that, then I was able to lock the crankshaft, but the camshaft parts would not go on. According to my Chilton manual, it said to use a 27mm wrench to hold the cam and loose the sprocket bolt and turn the cam until the alignment tools slide on. I had to do this to both cams. I guess this indicates the timing was off.

The timing chain and guides went back on OK, but I still have what I think is a lack of compression. Obviously the timing chain was a problem, but I'm not sure if it is THE problem.

I have read many threads about locked up vacuum pumps, broken camshaft sprocket bolts, etc but I don't seem to have these issues.

Am I to the point where I need to consider removing the head? Is there something I may be possibly missing here?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Is there any fuel rail pressure when you try starting it? Certainly could be a HPFP issue. Common issue, it's the first thing I'd check.

 

Where would I check that and with what? I didn't think there was a fuel pressure test port for the hpfp. If so, what kind of gauge would I use to measure pressure that high?

 

I use the OBDLink (Bluetooth) along with their app or the Torque Pro app. You simply need an OBD connector and software. There are plenty of cheap Bluetooth OBD readers on amazon and the Torque Pro app costs $5. Simply plug it into your car and look at the fuel rail pressure as your trying to start it up. It should shoot up to 700+ psi. I'm currently having an issue with my high pressure fuel pump and am see number less than 100 psi during the first start of the day.

 

Ok. I have that app and Bluetooth adapter. Didn't know it would read if engine wasn't running. Thanks, I'll try that also.

 

Update!

Finally got the engine torn down and the head removed. Here is what I found. All of my exhaust valves are bent. So off to the machine shop it goes.

 

Well there's only one way that could happen, do your pistons have any half moon shapes on top? I have heard of this before only after it was to late. A member a year prier have the timing chain rattle, replaced all components and a year later on the track hear broke a piston only to find these strange half moon shape marks on top of the piston and wondered if the damage had been done that year before when his timing chain went.

 

I have yet to clean the pistons off. Lots of carbon on top and in intake ports. Do the pistons have valve reliefs, or are they flat, dished...? Never had a turbo/supercharged engine before, but have read some articles about them.
So once I clean them, I'll post a pic. I appreciate all of the advice so far. I am documenting this endeavor on video to post on YouTube. Maybe it will help someone.

 

Well, finally got the head back from the machine shop. I had them replace all of the valves and mill the head flat.
Got it all put back together, but now the engine won't turn over! I pulled the codes with BMW DIS v57 and this is what it showed:

A0C1 Output Terminal 50
A0C2 Output Terminal 50 RS
A0B5 Fault Road Speed Signal
A116 Critical Status, Electric Steering Lock
A0B4 Engine Start, Starter Operation

6116 EPS Msg Error, Wheel Speed Front

2F1A DME Coolant Temperature Sensor, Signal
2E67 DME No BSD Message from Alternator

FFFF CANSYS Communication Fault
A3B2 CANSYS Instrument Cluster: Message (Terminal Status 130)
E717 CANSYS IHKA/IHRS/IHS: No Message Engine Data 1D0

The car turned over fine before I did all of the work. The battery was disconnected for about a month. Could this have anything to do with it? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

I think you really need to check the timing before you do anything more. The question you haven't answered yet is critical: WHY did the exhaust valves get bent?

Until you know the answer, I wouldn't turn that engine over. I suspect your timing chain jumped and you will bend the valves unless you correct it.

I hate to say that, but it's a real possibility and you don't want to replace those valves twice.

 

I'm pretty sure the valves got bent when the timing chain guide came apart. Anyhow, I did set the timing according to the Chilton's manual, using the Koch timing special tool. It says to rotate the engine 4 revolutions clockwise and put the timing tool back on. I did and it fit perfectly.

My problem is that it won't turn over now, but did before I disassembled it. Wondering if having the battery disconnected for over a month would affect the DME or CAS......

 

DO you mean that it won't turn over using the starter, or that it physically won't turn over at all? I haven't gotten into the Mini very far yet, but usually there's a way to get a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt and rotate the engine. For that matter, in this motor, if the spark plugs are out, you should be able to turn it by pulling on the fan belt.

 

I can turn it over by hand, just not with the starter.

 

Well, the problem could be in fuses, relays, or a loose wire. Chances are that it's a wire or ground that didn't get re-connected when the work was done.

The rule I follow (when I can force myself to remember it) is to figure out the simplest thing that could cause a problem, and look there first. In this case, I'd say that's a missed connection or a fuse.

 

BUMP! WHAT HAPPEN, problem resolved?