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So I drop my 06 R53 off to have the sc pulley changed ( 15%), crank pulley changed (2% overdrive ATI ), change plugs and change oil as well.....get a call at end of day. Its all installed but the car wont start. Like are you kidding...it started fine when I dropped it off...guys says they had to push start it and that the starter is gone. Says $600 for the starter. Am I missing something here or do I just have terrible luck...is there anything this guy could have done to cause this or what....please any thoughts.
There's no real way of messing up the starter from installing those things.
Thats what I figured....is there any other reason that it would not start...possibly something else....when changing the crank pulley can that mess up the timing?
Thats what I figured....is there any other reason that it would not start...possibly something else....when changing the crank pulley can that mess up the timing?
Nop. The timing gears are inside the cover, the pulley is just mounted on the crank. I'd start by checking connectors and ground, as suggested by bavmotors, could be as simple as this. No idea what they would remove except for the one on the motor mount when doing the s/c pulley tho.
Nop. The timing gears are inside the cover, the pulley is just mounted on the crank. I'd start by checking connectors and ground, as suggested by bavmotors, could be as simple as this. No idea what they would remove except for the one on the motor mount when doing the s/c pulley tho.
If it was just a simple connection problem and not the starter would they have been able to push start it....when I got to the shop it was outside running and seemed to be running fine except that he had to push start it...if its the starter it kinda shocksme since the car only has 42000 kms....lol after all this when I get this car back but butt dyno better feel it.
Check the grounds...
The passanger side ground+engine mount is disconnected to do the pulley...
Looks like a cable...if loose, the computer/ecu will fry eventually, and often a no-crank.
Check the grounds...
The passanger side ground+engine mount is disconnected to do the pulley...
Looks like a cable...if loose, the computer/ecu will fry eventually, and often a no-crank.
I see but could the car still be push started with the ground disconnected or loose? They got it running by push starting it...
This is the ground strap you are referring to? Not my car...pic from online....so without this could the car even be push started? Like everyone has said not much disconnected for this job...maybe my luck is just bad and starter has chosen to go at this time.
This is the ground strap you are referring to? Not my car...pic from online....so without this could the car even be push started? Like everyone has said not much disconnected for this job...maybe my luck is just bad and starter has chosen to go at this time.
This is for sure the first thing to check even if slightly loose it won't start.
This is for sure the first thing to check even if slightly loose it won't start.
Thanks for all your replies. ...I know Ive asked already but have not seen answer yet....but with a loose or disconnected ground strap would they have been able to push start the car as the mechanic described. He had it running when I got there....would the car even be able to run with the ground strap loose or disconnected?
Thanks again for all replies.
Every car has multiple grounds to the chassis and the engine. The large ground connector to the engine provides the primary (high capacity) ground to the battery. There are additional grounds (smaller) that provide supplement ground connections for ignition, charging, ECU, emissions, etc, etc. During starting the starter could draw between 100-200 amp, if the primary (large) ground was removed the started would not be able to turnover the engine. You would probably hear click, click as the start solenoid kicks in. With that said if the car was "kicked started" without the primary ground it would be able start and remain running because the additional secondary grounds to the engine would provide the necessary capacity to keep the car running.
The mechanic should be able to test the starter by applying 12v to the smaller wire on the starter solenoid. A good starter will kick when the 12v is applied.
Note: Did the mechanic depress the clutch pedal all the way while attempting to start it. Some are not familiar with that.
If it is something like what above members have said, then yes, something like push starting it would allow it to start and stay running. Please be careful though, it's a really good way to do some big damage to your starter.
It sounds like to me that they are unfamiliar with Mini electronics and forgot a ground. So I'd +1 what most everyone said. There is a small chance that they could have done some damage to the ECU but don't sweat that yet. Troubleshoot the smaller stuff first, and don't take your pride and joy back to those knuckleheads again.
Thanks for all your replies. ...I know Ive asked already but have not seen answer yet....but with a loose or disconnected ground strap would they have been able to push start the car as the mechanic described. He had it running when I got there....would the car even be able to run with the ground strap loose or disconnected?
Thanks again for all replies.
For about the 3rd or 4th time in this thread....
Just go check it...
A starter needs a good ground....the bigger the draw, the bigger/better the ground needs to be...
Yes ..as the professional MINI trained factory mechanic at wmw told you...the CAR WILL NOT START IF IT IS EVEN LOOSE....
As stated the car has multiple grounds....and grounds tend to find their own way when a smaller one is iffy...but a BIG DRAW needs a BIG , GOOD GROUND.
For about the 3rd or 4th time in this thread....
Just go check it...
A starter needs a good ground....the bigger the draw, the bigger/better the ground needs to be...
Yes ..as the professional MINI trained factory mechanic at wmw told you...the CAR WILL NOT START IF IT IS EVEN LOOSE....
As stated the car has multiple grounds....and grounds tend to find their own way when a smaller one is iffy...but a BIG DRAW needs a BIG , GOOD GROUND.
Thanks I plan on checking it as soon as the shop opens. Sorry I was not questioning whether or not the car would start with out the ground...I was questioning as would it be able to run once push started. As explained though now understand that other parts of the car will get there ground at different points up the line.
Every car has multiple grounds to the chassis and the engine. The large ground connector to the engine provides the primary (high capacity) ground to the battery. There are additional grounds (smaller) that provide supplement ground connections for ignition, charging, ECU, emissions, etc, etc. During starting the starter could draw between 100-200 amp, if the primary (large) ground was removed the started would not be able to turnover the engine. You would probably hear click, click as the start solenoid kicks in. With that said if the car was "kicked started" without the primary ground it would be able start and remain running because the additional secondary grounds to the engine would provide the necessary capacity to keep the car running.
The mechanic should be able to test the starter by applying 12v to the smaller wire on the starter solenoid. A good starter will kick when the 12v is applied.
Note: Did the mechanic depress the clutch pedal all the way while attempting to start it. Some are not familiar with that.
So I get to the shop early this morning. Last thing I told him when leaving last night was I want all the old parts back....Miraculously its starting no problem now.
So either they re attached the ground strap...were trying to scam me. The guy is still saying the starter might go any day....wow these guys...Im on Vancouver Island guys, anyone else avoid Island Motorsports.
So I picked up the car and apparently the starter is all good now...It magically started working. Either way not going back to that shop. Either they were trying to scam me or just played the starter card to save face for not hooking up the ground and realized it later.
On the other hand the car is running real nice...the combo really woke up the car....the ati crank pulley really smoothed out the idle. Power up and down the rpm is really felt...definite difference over stock.
Thanks for everyones help in keeping me aware on what to look for
Glad it's working for you. To answer your question about that ground strap, mine was loose and it came off the mount and the car shut down on the freeway and would not start or pop start
On the original Mini's, if the heavy engine ground strap broke, the alternate was the skinny metal sheath to the manual choke cable.
If you burnt your finger or the plastic kernob melted off, you knew where the problem was.