Before anyone beats me to it, yes, I'm an idiot. My curiosity and ignorance has taken me down a path I was not prepared for, and all.

Two questions
1. Is there a way to check the water pump one its off the supercharger to "make sure" it still good?

2. When I removed the snout and the horn, and the part behind the water pump to look at the gears n such, when I put all that back on what is the torque spec for that? 18 ft lbs right?

Any clarity would be appreciated

 

OK so I decided to get a new water pump, but it won't be here til Wednesday, but all the searching I can't find a torque value for the supercharger stuff. Please help.

 

Here quick google search, it's the same basic unit Eaton 45. Shows the front but back should be the same deal, it's what I used when I opened mine up (for no reason other than to be sure) and put it back together.

http://www.superchargersonline.com/i...age=page&id=57

 

thank you, that's awesome!

 

If you need help with the water pump we have a great DIY here that may be of assistance. There's some good info about it in the article as well.

 

OK, so, over the week I've changed the shocks, struts, springs, rotors, brake pads, changed the supercharger oil, and green gasket, the oil filter housing gasket, both map sensors, replaced the water pump and gaskets, replaced the busted core radiator support, new grill inserts, and I put it all back together.
Now when I started up the car it ran ruff, real ruff, like whole car shaking ruff. I thought what did I miss. I made sure I connected the Intake valve and hoses correctly, the alternator is connected correctly, but I noticed I had put the evap canister on but forgot to connect it. Fixed that, but now it will start but almost dies immediately. It gets to about 1200 rpm then quits.
Questions
1. Did I vap lock it?
2. Which map sensor is the upstream one, the one on the Intake manifold?
3. Did I screw up the evap canister, I have an old one I can swap in for now...
4. What else could I have missed?
5. I did have codes but inadvertently erased them thinking it would fix it ( dumb).
6. I killed the battery trying to start it and read codes, can I jump the car from the battery, cuz the way its positioned I can't get another car in there to jump it.

Thanks for any help, I'm out of town and I just can't stop thinking about how to fix it...

 

And yes, without the help of pelican parts guides, nam searches, and mod minis YouTube channel, ecs tuning, realoem, and at times, amazon shipping, I could not have had the confidence to get this far, you've made mini ownership possible for me, otherwise the labor costs alone would have had me giving up on this car along time ago.

 

It's been awhile since I worked on my supercharger, so bear with me. There is an "intake tube" (sure there is a better name) that goes between the supercharger (where you replaced the green gasket) and the air intake. If I remember correctly there is a screw holding it in place, or a fitting mid piece, that when removed/ installed incorrectly can crack the tube causing an air leak. You would have likely heard it pop or crack when assembling or disassembling. If the air leak is big enough, I would imagine it would cause it to run rough. May be able to hear it sucking air through it too.

Just a thought,

Nik

 

wire harness to the throttle body? sounds like what mine did when I forgot to reconnect that.

 

I'll double check both of those when I get back, but I did remember to pay certain attention to the Intake tube to the supercharger because it said how fragile it was on the forums and I have learned threw experience how the throttle body, if not connected, won't let the car start...

Keep em coming, this is great!

 

As mentioned, the area where the green gasket is - is often really hard to seat properly.
Also check the intercooler boots as leaking there can cause problems.

When you changed the MAP and TMAP could you have mixed them up? They are different parts (although they look identical)

 

Oh, and charge that battery on a charger (if you haven't already), don't let your alternator do that job as you'll kill it quickly too.
These cars prefer a 100% battery, funky things happen when the battery is less than perfect (I've replace a number of them now)

 

You're welcome. If you do need further assistance with all this please do not hesitate to reach out to me.

Yes, be sure to take care of the battery for this as once it starts going it can cause all sorts of weird electrical issues.

 

Thank you, pelican parts!

I did notice that I did put the map sensors in the wrong places, but family time is required and I'm charging the battery...

Great help everybody

 

Yes, family time is important. You're very welcome.

 

You are welcome.

For the water pump , it can leak at the bearing or at the connections.

For the map sensor one is upstream and one is down stream. Good picture shows the sensors . 12140872679 and 12140872648

Diagrams

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...91#12140872679

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_3390



https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...sensor-is.html







https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...at-change.html

 

success! I moved the map sensors in there correct positions ( which is funny cuz I did research the FAE sensors to make sure I put them in the right spots, and it was because of the pictures on the ECS tuning website that cleared up the confusion for me) and the car started right up!
although it sounded like it was sucking all the oxygen out of the garage when it did, I took it for a drive and realized the clutch pedal wasn't functioning properly and the brakes barely worked. brought it back and I remembered what xsmini and jamez had said, and found the intercooler boot on the supercharger wasn't seated correctly, fix that, and now it runs like a top!

one more questions while I still have an audience...
1. how long does it take to get the temp gauge to get to the middle on a perfectly bleed coolant system? I'm concerned I haven't gotten all the air out after changing the coolant, after changing the core radiator support, and mine takes less than 4 minutes, which to me, seems pretty fast.

thanks again to all for your help. this forum and its sponsors are the best!

 

Should take longer than that. Bleed again.

Nik

 

Bleed it again, and took it for a spirited drive around a 23 mile loop around town and the highway. With my blue tooth obd port reader and the torque app, the temp peaked at 197 F, at about 110 mph and 72 degee ambiant temp outside. Just cruzing around it stayed in the 180-190 range. The only wierd thing was it peeked up to 192 in a parking lot waiting to get a soda.

So just for someone who may search for coolant fill, here are the steps I used.
1. Start with a cold engine
2. Take cap off reservoir and take bleed screw off as well
3. Put some catch can under car underneath near bleed screw
4. Fill reservoir slowly until coolant mixture comes out bleed screw
5. Close bleed screw and put cap on reservoir.
6. Start car and put heater on hi
7. Open bleed screw enough to get bubbles
8. Once bubbles stop, close bleed screw.
9. If you notice the coolant is getting low in the reservoir during step 8, turn car off, wait an hour, add more coolant mix, then start at step 6.
10. Then let car cool off, about one or two hours depending on outside temps, refill reservoir, and go for a drive, or take a nap.

 

I was worried that the idle was too low, but after some searching I found that 750 rpm at idle after startup is ideal...

 

is this right?

the strut mount seems very stressed after replacing the struts, did I do something wrong? I made sure to put them on the correct side of the car, made sure the springs were seating correctly top and bottom, but it doesn't seem right, its almost like the bearing and the bushing are going to pop out the top any second!

 

You have a 11/2002 MINI Cooper S . So 31306778833 is the part number for the strut mount , it that the one you ordered ?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ing-issue.html

 

for real? the strut bearing? I watched the video in the thread as well and it makes that noise also. that stinks also because these mounts aren't even 6 month old....


cool, thanks again. should see an order soon.

 

You are welcome. We have seen other companies like the Moog ones or Monroe one fail in a year. We dont carry those.

Had the lemforder ones personally and no issues.

Thanks