Hey guys,
I need a new clutch that can hold the amount of power my car does and will have due to mods. I've searched the forums and found a few things: I don't want a clutch that chatters, I don't really need or want a lightened flywheel, but I need a clutch that can hold a decent amount of hp/torque. I want a clutch that won't slip!
I have a 2008 MCS, 62,500 miles, stock clutch. I have several mods, including an AEM cold air intake, okada plasma coils, brisk silver spark plugs, GFB diverter valve, and a stage I tune via alta accessport. I just walnut blasted my valves, so they're nice and clean. I took the mini out for a drive and if I floor it in sport mode it bucks like a bronco---clutch slips pretty bad--my mini really pulls... I'm not sure how much hp I have (probably somewhere in the low 200s) but I plan on upgrading the exhaust, turbo, and IC, to Akrapovic with DP, JM E45hp turbo, Wagner FMIC, etc.
I want a clutch that can hold the power and tolerate some frequent spirited driving. Do you think the JCW clutch and flywheel (21208607915 and 21207583195) would be suitable? Thanks!

 

Talk to arric over at jm turbo coppers they have a few options and I have heard great things about them give him a col he can recommend something else that will fit the bill

 

You don't want chatter, only choice I know is OEM but you don't want that either. You want a clutch that will launch your MCS fast, how about chattering?

There's two sides to a sword, choose one.

 

We haven't found the breaking point of oem r56 clutches yet so we still recommend stock. We have several gp2 cars running around with 240whp and 270wtrq. Even have a jcw as high as 267whp with close to 300wtrq without any issues on stock clutch. We have used Giken before and they last just as long as stock ones. Driving habits typically dictate clutch life not power in most cases.

 

Get the stock clutch kit. It'll hold anything that you can bolt on to your MCS, and last much longer than 'performace' clutches.

 

Thanks for the feedback everybody! That is what I suspected--other threads said performance clutches don't last as long and can still slip (read about a few OS Giken woes) and since I have to tear the car apart myself, I don't want to do it frequently. It sounds like the JCW clutch/flywheel is good for the power, so I will probably go with that. I will still contact JMTC because their kits do look interesting and they aren't too pricey. I appreciate the input!

 

I'm not actually sure it's my clutch that is losing grip under power, I think it could be a problem with my flywheel. Apparently dual mass flywheels are designed for a set torque curve. There are springs within the dual mass flywheel that absorb NVH, but I think they can give under excessive torque too? I think this is what the "bucking" feeling was--the flywheel springs not liking the amount of power from the engine...

 

It sounds like you're just making assumptions without any real evidence, we having many member's running insane power through their JCW's and GP2's on a stock clutch with DMF. They haven't reported any issues with their DMF after thousands of miles, some of these folks are very near 260whp HP and 271wtrq.

Remember you asked us, if you choose to not take our advice that's your prerogative.

 

I'd have to respectfully disagree with all of the above. DMFs can get damaged, but the symptoms you are experiencing and your conclusions do not support that. Don't get a single-mass flywheel unless you have a very compelling reason to do so (not withstanding the Valeo conversion kit for cars with broken DMFs). As a general rule, stock flywheels can easily handle any bolt-on power.

 

I apologize for my lack of knowledge, it just bucks back and forth like I was going over bumps when I try to give it a lot of pedal--I guess it's the clutch, thanks for the feedback.

 

PM'ed you.

 

Systemlord informs me that my problem may be related to a crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, or erratic timing--the timing chain was replaced by the dealer 3 months ago so I hope it was timed correctly. I may have more/other problems involved rather than a clutch.

 

If your timing chain is loose that could cause problems with timing, didn't know about your timing chain replacement. Are you sure they replaced the entire timing chain components and not just the tensioner? Any strange noises?

 

Yes they replaced the whole thing and the engine cover for a whopping $3,000. That being the case, the timing should be right because it was done the end of this past march--like 3 months ago. I had replaced the tensioner myself before going to them as a last resort--didn't work, whole thing needed to be replaced. I apologize that this thread isn't more about clutches, it appears I have engine problems instead. It seems the jerking could also be caused by the HPFP, which seems prone to fail, or one of the solenoids. I'll have to go through the fun of finding which part isn't happy.

 

Did you ever think that the tune might be a problem? There are numerous people that reported problems with the Alta OTS maps for the accessport. Try going back to the stock map and see if the problem still exists.

 

Good idea, I was just thinking of that. I installed new silver spark plugs, which for me at least have a very noticeable effect on the power, then put then tune on. I'll go take it off and see if that helps. Since I don't have an upgraded FMIC, I only have it on the stage I tune--not sure if stage II etc are any better (i.e. less problems).

 

update: took the tune off, the clutch still slips slightly when pushed hard (as expected, needs to be replaced) but the bucking/jerking doesn't happen. I like the convenience of the accessport but now I'm ready to get rid of it... Thanks for the suggestion Agbullet25!

 

I think you need to do some serious research about your MCS and the mods you plan on installing, you can't just through mods and tunes at your Mini expecting everything to work. Slow down and do some research and make informed decisions, that's what NAM is all about.