Hi all,

I just picked up an '09 MCS with 113k miles on it. Carfax shows that it was well maintained in Florida, but I don't have much specific info about what all has been done to it. After reading all the horror stories about this engine I've decided I am going to replace everything I can for peace of mind.

My first question, is how hard is it to change the timing parts? I haven't been able to find a DIY anywhere. I would buy the tool kit and measure the chain first before I got the whole kit, but I don't want to purchase the tool set until I'm sure I can do the timing job myself. If it's doable with jack stands and minimal engine droppage I can handle it.

Can anyone testify about the DDMWorks intake? My only concern is that it will suck in water in hard rain. I read that you shouldn't go through a car wash with it, but I had an idea.. Couldn't you just put a piece of plastic over the air box if you need to go through a wash? It would still suck air through the stock pipe if I'm not mistaken. If there's a rain issue maybe this would solve that as well. Just a thought.

I am looking at an upgraded diverter valve but can't find much about the pros and cons of each design. The two I'm looking at are listed on this page: http://www.minidynamics.com/Performa...als-s/1632.htm
The Alta kit is mechanical so I'm assuming it's not just a simple bolt on, is this right? Does it actually have an advantage over the ECU-controlled part? The description for the GFB diverter says that the ECU opens faster, while the Alta says their system is faster.
Though I'm pretty much sold on the GFB kit. Just wondered if someone could clarify that for me.

I want the BSH oil catch can and am considering using the boost tap to block off the PCV. Will this affect my emissions? If so, is it fairly easy to open back up for test day?

How important is a boost gauge on this car? I like to have one to diagnose issues, look cool, etc. but the cravenspeed gauges are PRICEY! $600 for two gauges is pretty steep. And I don't want something that doesn't look factory. Also if I did get the 2-gauge kit, what would be the most important second gauge to use on this car? Cravenspeed doesn't even have an AFR or EGT option. My choices are oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, or voltmeter. I'm thinking oil pressure, though I'm not planning on racing so maybe voltmeter would be the most useful for regular diagnostic purposes...?

I am also considering getting an oil extractor. Do these have any advantages besides ease of use? I've read that it's good to use a magnetic drain plug and change from the bottom every 3rd time regardless. Does anyone use these and have any tips or recommendations?

Any other suggestions of simple fixes/mods that will give some performance and/or improve reliability would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for reading. I'm loving my new car and ready to dive in!

 

We will be composing a DIY list for the timing chains on the R56, as we just got one in. Can keep an eye out on our tech articles here for new DIY content that we will be adding.

A good investment for doing these repairs may be purchasing the Bentley Manual here.

Just some threads on NAM about them:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...5-r56-n14.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ce-please.html

NEUSPEED makes some good intakes. Not up on our site yet, but can check them out here. They make some good products. I really love Forge products. You can check out their DV here. The Forge DV enables for your boost pressure to hold better. I like the boost gauge so I know if my car isn't hitting the proper boost level it is supposed to. I put in a gauge for AFR and oil pressure. I used just universal gauges (AEM gauges). For the other items you can cruise around our catalog here for options. If you have any questions feel free to ask!

-Luccia

 

Thanks for the reply! There are some good links there that I hadn't found in my searches. I've run across your site a few times already (love your DIYs!) and will definitely be using you guys when I can, especially for the Bentley. Pellican beat Amazon by a decent bit on that!

Regarding the cold air, I think I like the DDMWorks intake as it seals off the intake air and retains some of the stock parts. It is only slightly more expensive and seems to be a more complete solution IMO. If anyone disagrees let me know.

That Forge DV.. What advantage does it have over the Go Fast Bits valve? It does look more complicated. From what I can tell, the GFB is a direct drop-in replacement for the stock diaphragm and claims the same benefit as the Forge. The Forge does look like a well engineered piece.

Thanks again!

 

My pleasure! and glad you have run across our site already. Do your research and if you like something a lot more over another, go with it. When I was researching for upgrades for my build I always got peoples input, but ultimately ended up getting what I felt was best. Personally, working with a lot of Forge products, I prefer it over GFB. I have heard and seen too many of the GFB fail/break. I had one on my car and switched (now use Turbosmart because they're a sponsor of mine and their product is top notch like Forge). They don't make DV's for MINI's though. Forge is ultimately what I would recommend from personal experiences.

-Luccia

 

I hadn't heard about GFB parts failing, so that's good info. The Forge kit is more pricey but definitely looks solid. Do you know why it has extra vacuum lines, etc? It says that it still retains the stock ECU activation so that confuses me.

Found this kit through one of the links you posted.. good stuff! I am willing to spare no expense to preemptively upgrade factory parts that are prone to failure. I appreciate the help!

 

Like I said, this is all from my personal experiences and from friends experiences with the product. People may have other input as well. I've just never really had an issue with the Forge products and really appreciate the quality of their products. If you give Forge a call (contact info here) and talk to Sean (tell him Luccia sent you; he knows me well) he can explain the technical aspects of the kit better than I can. Glad I could help. Feel free to ask me any other questions you may have moving forward.

-Luccia

 

Are you single???

J/K

 

that made my day. Thank you!

-Luccia

 

The Forge DV operates on the vacuum at the MAP sensor where boost pressures are measured under the air box. What I can tell you about the Forge DV is improved valve response time and it doesn't unnecessarily dump boost pressure between shifts like the stock DV. You'll lose less boost between shifts so when you get back on the throttle you'll have a higher boost pressure to work with, you will notice a more responsiveness. Make sure you get the recirculating valve and not the blow off valve (BOV) version that vents to atmosphere.

The BFG is not faster than the Forge DV because it still uses the stock electronic DV. It still dumps too much boost.

I would advise against the use of the BSH OCC if you plan on plugging up any PCV ports, this creates uneven pressure between the crankcase the intake.

I use an oil extractor to change my oil, I use one designed for marine engines that holds up to 6 quarts. Here is the one I purchased, looks like an updated model that holds .9 quarts more than mine.

 

I'm still confused, the Forge site said that it uses the ECU to activate. (That's for N18, haven't taken the time to find the N14 version, maybe it's different.)

As far as the OCC, they specifically list the boost tap/block off as complimentary to the catch can because it forces all the air through that filter. It does make sense that venting everything out one side of the engine could create an unbalance but I don't quite understand the best method to use here. Seems like having the PCV venting to the intake pretty much defeats the purpose of using the catch can in the first place. Would two catch cans be ideal? lol

 

The correct DV is the FM207V. Forget about the OCC even if you don't understand it, it's more trouble than it's worth. Take me at my word you'll fail smog with that PCV port blocked off.

 

Ok thanks. I guess building a walnutshell blaster rig is the only way to keep the valves clean then?

 

^This^

 

We'll have OBDII gauges available for your MINI real soon. Same price and AFR is one of the options. So is oil PSI, Temp, or voltmeter.

 

Sweet! Looks like I'll be doing the timing chain and some other preventative maintenance first, so by the time I'm ready for gauges you'll probably have them out. I can't go with any other brand.. they look so good.

 

Much appreciated!

 

If you go to a MINI dealer, they can read the maintenance history (that has been done at a MINI dealer) for your car. It is recorded on the key fob.


First thing is learning how to read the oil level. it sounds ridiculous, but the dipstick runs through a tube that fills with oil. You need to allow this tube to drain. My method (I have a garage) is to pull the dipstick out at night and check in the morning. I leave the hood up to remind myself. Running out of oil because of false readings on the dipstick is not unheard of.


If there is no record of carbon cleaning, get that done. You will notice a difference in performance. I have an OCC and still get buildup. Plan on cleaning every 25k.


Spark plugs every 50k (30k is factory recommended for JCW), more if you are running a tune.


Leaks are a big deal. The turbo oil line can leak where it attaches to the turbo housing. The oil filter housing tends to leak (if you have oil on the downpipe or front of the engine, it is likely the oil filter housing). Replace both of these at the same time, it is a labor intensive job. There are DIY threads on this.


If there is an oil leak on the passenger side, check the timing chain tensioner. This can be a big deal if the leak goes bad. Driver side of the engine has a vacuum pump, these can leak as well. Valve cover leaks are also common on older vehicles.
Thermostat housing is on the driver side of the engine, it will leak. Check the top of the transmission for coolant or staining, it tends to puddle on that rather than go to the ground.


Water pump is on the passenger side of the engine. They were factory with a plastic housing, which will crack and leak. If your car has a metal housing, it has been replaced. Swap out the serpentine belt at the same time.


When you change the oil, check the bottom of the coolant reservoir, look for cracks or staining.


Also, MINI's act funny when the battery starts to go bad. Weird electrical issues can show up. Your car is 6 years old, plan on a battery before trouble starts.


How is that for a list? Don't forget to enjoy your new purchase, don't lose too much sleep over the N14. If it made 114k with an 'average' driver, it should go for a while longer with an enthusiast.


Have fun,
Mike

 

^That was a fantastic list! Where did you get all this information? I can't find definitive asnwers anywhere. For example, spark plugs being changed every 50k miles. The most consistent answer I got was 30k miles for my 2009 MCS Hardtop.